More Gremlins For the OG Murder Nova. First Test Session of the Year NOT Going As Planned!

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First test session of the year not going as planned for the OG Murder Nova!

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Author: rafaelnieves72

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31 thoughts on “More Gremlins For the OG Murder Nova. First Test Session of the Year NOT Going As Planned!

  1. Electrical problems are just frustrating especially when computer controls are in play. From my past auto industry experience I believe you still have a problem that will show itself again someday. Wiring can now be just about eliminated with the new and professional work done. I believe you have a sensor issue, a software issue or, a voltage regulation issue. If you believe the FT modules are good as provided then I would look to engine sensors and how is voltage regulated. Remember that modules don’t like over voltage and more than low voltage. They also don’t like erratic sensors. You guys do not suck! You are working hard to make the car go straight and fast. Keep it up and best of luck.

  2. Total bummer man… I'm racking my brain and all I can think is g-force induced fuel shutoff of some sort. It has to be g-force related. Burnout is fine. Only when you are on a serious pass, it shuts down. Thats my only guess. Something related to g-forces and fuel! Hope you find that shit man!
    Ok….. so I'm 100% wrong. Lol. That is a complete pain in the ass for sure!

  3. The worst thing about a problem like that is eventually you will throw parts at it and then, when it does start working, you’re not sure what the actual problem truly was so every pass you wonder if it’s coming back for awhile.

  4. is there a ecu (sorry – i don't follow the channel) – make sure that all relays and solenoids (injectors fans and pumps included) have flyback diodes installed (they are wired in reverse across the coil) – this prevents very harmful voltage spikes – another tip – if you look at a cheap bench meter like a 6.5 digit (rigol makes one for a few hundred) – they'll usually let you run a kelvin test and allow you to see very precise resistance (handhelds aren't accurate enough to get a good read on low ohm resistance) – combine it with an lcr meter and it give you a quick easy way to check all of your inductors (inductors typically short when they fail – it's possible to get a partial fail as well – a small dead short where the bulk of the wire remains intact overloading the drive circuit till it eventually fails) – what type of battery – has it been load tested – whats the full peak load it'll see – "is the a problem with parasitic inductance – is there an inductor acting as a choke – here's my recommendation – get a raspberry pi or arduino or such – look up how to build a volt meter for it – set up the program to log voltages taken (this allows you to test multiple voltages at places that on board may not show) – it's a quick easy way to see what you're electrical system is doing – a real scope is another good tool to have

  5. Hey brother I love the content. Keep it comin we love y'all here Shawn and phantom y'all are so cool man. I'm a huge fan. I'm a huge OG fan. Good luck this season. y'all bout to kill em this season. They better look out this season the OG is back!!

  6. Shan is the data log showing loss of crank signal for a split secoind?? Is the crank sensor wiring wrapped in aluminum to eliminate interference (interference as in harmonics or emi/rfi messing with the electronics)? Or is any module's going off line (that can be seen)? Also if you seeing a spike at the end of it going lean it's losing fuel or a spike in rich at the end(when it dies on the log) you know it's losing spark before the car dies.
    (Edit since you got it fixed what fixed it?)

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