How to Stop Your Brakes from Squeaking

48 thoughts on “How to Stop Your Brakes from Squeaking”

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2. Just a heads up about the copper based lube and graphite, I couldn't see graphite on the label so I'll take your word for it, but if it is graphene lube, that's better than copper.

3. That thumbnail sickens me

4. I have learned good English form you. Thanks

5. Squeaking brakes doesn’t immediately mean bad brakes.

6. Hopefully 4 years later you can help, but my VW Passat is making a really bad grinding noise when I push the brakes. I just replaced them all around but only 1 side, the rear drivers side, is making an awful grinding noise. What could that possible be?

7. Just discovered you today, Chris. Thanks for all the videos helping us. Cheers from Brazil. We need more mecanics like you here.

8. Just put a bit of oil on them 😉

9. My truck dosent squeak while braking but sometimes when I go lower then 30mph it squeaks

10. There is click noise when applying brake

11. if you don't clean the break disk can this cause squealing?

12. What about hard grinding when pushing moderately at the brakes

13. Very good video. Clear and speedy. Thanks.

14. my breaks squeak but only in warm/hot weather , any1 help ?

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16. I love the way you explain everything, thanks to ur videos i being able to do the work to my car and save alot of money.
    Thank u God bless u

17. dont break

18. And here I thought the grooves just add surface area for extra grip…

19. My break noise is obviously only when i press on the breaks and it is intermittent and faster if I'm going faster and then break. I'm leaning towards rust. what do you think

20. I have a 2000 tundra truck that only makes noise when I go in reverse. Is there a fix for that?

21. If u dont break It should be no noise

22. Best video on this subject

23. ChrisFix, I got a question. What got you into cars and repairing them.

24. that one guy using cans of wd-40 when his brakes squeak

25. I change the rotor of my bmw f30 328i and the care still shaking when i brake

26. Your understanding of colloidal lubricants is a bit jacked. Let me help.

    Graphite v. Copper is not because of malleability. In the colloidal suspension – that really doesn't matter. Both copper and graphite is effectively particularized to the point of being a powder and when in colloidal suspension (i.e., floating around in the grease) there really isn't much difference between graphite and copper particles in terms of flaking versus breaking versus crushing type stuff. By the way – graphite is actually more malleable than copper. The bonds between carbon atoms are composed primarily of weak molecular forces. Since graphite has a planar structure, its electronic, acoustic, and thermal properties are highly anisotropic. This means, phonons pass much more easily along the planes than they do when trying to pass via the planes. So actually graphite is better than copper if you are talking about "slipperyness" per se.

    Plus, you should understand that nearly all anti seize has graphite in it. Thus, copper, aluminum, etc., all have graphite in them as well. Why? because of the "slipperyness."

    Copper greases are chosen primarily because of their thermolytic properties. Copper grease has been designed to be heat resistant and operates well under conditions of temperature extremes. It demonstrates excellent anti-seize characteristics at temperatures well over 1,000° C (that's about 1850° F).

    The reason you choose one anti-seize over another has to do with matching the metals and not corroding them, not because of some underlying property in the anti seize itself. Each anti-seize is about as slippery as the next, the issue is really not corroding the metal (through galvanic corrosion or some other problem) or having it fuse under the heat of the application.

    The reason why you use graphite primarily on bolts is because aluminum and copper are high valence metals. What that means is, copper has 11 valence electrons, distributed amongst the outermost d and s orbitals. These electrons are the ones that engage in chemical reactions. So if you put copper in contact with other metals, you can cause chemical reactions to occur and if you did that on bolts, basically your bolts would chemically react with the anti-seize and they'd effectively corrode. Copper is used in all kinds of chemical reactions to precipitate metals from solution. So you might not want copper on things that are made out of aluminum because of galvanic corrosion. Similarly, you wouldn't want to put aluminum anti-seize on steel items (again two metal corrosion will happen).

    On ships, which are primarily painted with copper (that's what makes the bottom of ships red), we put zinc anodes on the sides and bottom to keep them from being corroded in contact with the salt and the metals in seawater. Similarly on things like bridges, etc., we put anodes of zinc and copper when we build steel bridges to attract the corrosion versus having it attack the iron.

    Long story short – the reason why you're using copper versus graphite alone is because copper has amazing heat dissipation properties. Brakes under stress, especially how you're driving with your drifting and whatnot, can reach temperatures as high as 1000° F on the rotors, and 1500° F on pads and calipers because of continued use. Racing pads are rated for these types of temps. While you could use regular anti-seize (typically rated for temps to 1600° F), the constant heat stress on the compounds isn't so great. Moreover, graphite isn't so great at recovery over and over from heating. Copper can dissipate the heat faster, overall has a higher rating (thus doesn't degrade as quickly), and is better suited as long as you're using it on steel (which brake parts are all made from steel).

    That's why it's recommended. It has nothing to do with what you suggested.

27. What are you doing brake chan?

28. QUESTION:
    Chris, you talk about torque specs for different bolts and minimum thicknesses for rotors… Where can I find that information for my vehicles? Is that information commonly found in repair manuals such as the Haynes manuals?

29. Quick, to-the-point, great camera angles, product recommendations–wow this video is DIY gold!

30. we learn a lot.
    and more not only for 1 model
    thank you so much

31. can you tell me why my brakes makes noise when i break in a corner. when i go straight forward and hit the brakes it is good. but when I go into a corner and I break, it squeaks! Why is that? I put new brakes on it and I did everything you said.

32. Chris, well done.

33. I am viewing your video 1st time from India,….very good presentation.🧡💛💚

34. So what’s the diagnosis of brakes that only squeal when they’ve been sitting for a while, like pulling out of the driveway and then not again for the rest of the drive until it sits again.

35. Can you help me please
    I have high pitch whistle in my wheel but when I press bar ale or turn it goes away
    Thank you

36. Mate… Recently I have changed by front disc brakes myself, car is running smoothly.. Brakes are applying perfectly, but when car is coming to halt or at 0kmph at red light, a metal sound is coming (even brake is pressed at red light). While driving there is no sound, no car sound over poth holes.. Nothing.. Only when car is going to stop at 0. I lubricate all parts again as shown in the video again, but still there is sound. I used old brake clips but clean and put anti grease on it, while installing

37. Bro i only get brake noise when im on a hill. What could the issue be…helppp

38. My rotors n breaks are brand new and it still makes noise even when I turn my steering wheel back n forth ..do you know what problem is ?

39. Hopefully someone will help me here – I got everything on my front brakes replaced – rotors, pads, calipers, fluid and I still get this weird noise. Its kind of a grind that occurs at the same point when you turn the wheel. Imagine it like you start at 0°. Now from 0-270° no sound, 270-360° it grinds, kinda like you would be apply the brake just veeeery sligthly. So of course, it is much worse at higher speed then at lower speeds. I had my pads and discs replaced several times, and it always starts like this and gradually gets worse and after 2-3k km the rotors can be thrown into the bin. My thought are that maybe it is wheel bearing or hub.. but honestly.. dunno. Had 3 different mechanics look at it and it is still not ok. Car is 2010 Fiesta (front disc, rear drum).

40. II

41. So… you brought up issues about being the most common. But what about being the most rare, much less just bad breaks in general?

42. I make my gf squeal, can you help?

43. This is a great video

44. How long til brakes get changed?

45. When I am driving I hear a squeaking noise at any speed but when I press the brakes even slightly, the noise goes away

46. 3:32 is what mine looked like when my mom refused to change them. Dont let it get that bad. I lost the brakes on the car and the pads were equally bad

47. You can resurface discs with an orbital sander. Homie throws them away cause he makes more $.

48. JAGGGGGGGGGG

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