Nobody’s perfect is what comes to mind when I made this video. What started out as a simple rear disc brake installation with new parts, turned into a master cylinder, adjustable proportioning valve, and power brake upgrade. All because I wasn’t paying attention.
It could have been a 15 min job and an easy video. It turned out to be a 2 day affair.
I was going to do the other upgrades anyway, so no problem there. It’s just the time and frustration this mistake cost me that bothers me the most. However, I bet I never put another set of calipers on upside down again.
Still, I think this video contains a lot of useful information in addition to the ‘note’ about caliper installation.
I don’t mind doing things wrong in videos as long as there’s some benefit to the viewer. I think this is one of those times. Please don’t beat me up too bad. I’ve done that enough myself at this point.
Link to previous video in the series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3E9BA6YlhjU
The #FairmontProject playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L22GsHQi7tU&list=PLSzhQ6St-ov2nxWVKCeU14Vt7JJ_QSZvs
The best place for answers to your automotive questions: http://www.ericthecarguy.com
Camera: Brian Kast
Thanks for watching!
Discussion about this video: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/18-The-EricTheCarGuy-Video-Forum/65212-rear-brakes-the-hard-way-fairmontproject
Test Drive Video: Video link posted when available
Rear disc conversion kit I used: https://lmr.com/item/SVE-2300DK-B/1993-Mustang-Black-SVE-5-Lug-Conversion-Kit-31-Spline
Splash shields: https://lmr.com/item/LRS-2028A/94-04-Dust-Shield-Rear-Brake-Rotor-Will-Not-Fit-99-04-Cobra
HumbleMechanic: https://www.youtube.com/user/HumbleMechanic
Special thanks to O’Reilly’s auto parts: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/home.oap
Tools
Zep Brake Cleaner Sprayer: http://zepequipment.com/products/category/sprayers#!prettyPhoto
Zep Brake Cleaner: http://www.sustainablesupply.com/Zep-Professional-Brake-Wash-Solution-5-Gal-Pail-R18935-C1260503?CAWELAID=120205040001864786&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=23086252105&CATCI=pla-184156393465&catargetid=120205040003848986&cadevice=c&gclid=CJP30ceRlM0CFVGAaQody3ENpQ
Wilton vice: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/wilton-14600-6-5-reversible-swivel-mechanics-vise#oid=1002_1
Related videos
Master Cylinder Replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trotrlIG2sk
How to Bleed Brakes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5O_pbC8R2E
#DarkMatterPikachu on the Dyno: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UADOHm6-BJc
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Stay Dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
Oh how I wish I had an anvil on my vise like you have. So , so handy!
Really appreciate your video(s). Dont shoot the messenger but I could have told you are the start, if you are going to have disc disc and no need to proportion (or even disc drum with the small knob one) you replace the factory valve with a simple 3 way. Rear bowl to 3 way with two out to fronts. Front bowl direct to single rear which feeds the two lines. Only change is if rear is still drum, between master front bowl and rear break line you plumb the dial type valve and its the same concept In other words, that 3 way is just so you can split your rear bowl to feed tow front lines – lol you can get 3 for 10 – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KNGVKEA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Eric is ok to make the mistakes that we will make and how to rectify them, hee hee.
When I watched the intro, I was like, "the calipers got put in upside down, didn't they?'
Then he installed them. I was like, "yep.. there it is." I've seen it done so many times by so many people.
Shit happens.
I think your video was SUPERLY INFORMING . YOU DEMOSTRATED CONSISTANCY PERSISTANCE DETERMINATION FAILURE AND GREAT RECOVERY I PUT ON UPGRADED BRAKES ON And I too crashed into the same problems . your video reminded me of all of those problems so that the Next project I get Im going to fly thru it because of experiance . your video is good . thanks
You are awesome. I'm glad you left the errors in the video.
I appreciate the whole process and the mistakes not getting cut out! well done.
If it makes you feel any better you should see the brake problems I'm having on my rear disc conversion on my Fairmont. I believe I have my banjo fittings upside down currently, and why my brakes a presently trash. Definitely am in the same emotional state as you are in this video.
30:50 saw a shirt once that said, "If cussing and sheer force don't fix it. Then it's a POS that probably isn't worth fixing today anyway"
caliper,wrong side,bleed nipple to top..
Great vid! I am "hot rodding" (as it were) my question is in the "end" did you keep the OEM proportioning valve out? I have watched several vids on the subject and it is my understanding that switching to disc on the rear with a rear drum system you CAN remove the prop valve and it will work fine. Thoughts? Thanks.
Eric, I've recently purchased the same rear end kit you used in this video. The retailer I purchased it from advises the sn95 disc conversion will not work due to the rotor cannot clear the axle and the caliper mounting flange. What caliper rotor and flange set up are you using?
Whats up with the dirty Pikachu
it looks like the adapter plates for the rear brakes should not have the bend in them just be straight, i think you should have had painted/redone and then painted, ps the rear end mounts where you put new in why not poly mount like the new/used arms??? since iam use to german cars that swaybar looks like it hangs really low, on german cars they are also supported on the beam(rear end) other wise the kit you bought looks really nice, i would really like to know why the schocks are not gas versions???
regards
Sören
ERIC! You're doing it WRON…oh…you noticed. Never mind. Carry on!
Eric change your gloves!
Have you considered adding some colored wooden beads to your convoluted brake lines…like the toddlers toy? Personally, I think that they would augment your stuffed animal really well.
Just teasing, of course! I have just hit “subscribe”.
Respect. Keep the conversation coming!
Dude when you put the calipers on the wrong side and had the bleeders upside down that just goes to show that you are just as human as the rest of us and we all make mistakes so don't beat yourself up because you're still a great mechanic !
What I noticed when you did your caliper rebuild in that one video that you had a different way of installing the dust boot around the piston and then putting it on which is a bit different then South Main Auto had done he used compressed air the flutter the seal as he pushed the piston on so your method it's just a tad bit different then South Main Auto
I live in the UK. After having seen this video, I would happy bring my car to you for you to work on. Not enough people put their hands up and say 'I f****d up'. Very refreshing to see and yes, we ALL make mistakes. Keep up the great work and awesome content.
As someone who has made many a bone-headed mistake, I feel your pain, brother.
As a Drag racer 'NEVER be afraid of FAILURE". The Ranger v6 manuell brake master works real good with most budget drag cars as long as you get the right pedal ratio. Enjoy the journey.
Thank you for this video.
Yes i did notest that the calipers were on backwards. When i installed rear disc on my Stang i had to replace the master and the booster to make them work . I used a 94 Cobra master and a booster from a 95 V6 car as my original was too small to stop the car. pedal was hard and stopping sucked with with original booster. Also i did install the adjustable prop valve on rear brake line but did not gut the original prop valve. That still as it came from the factory. My rear brakes are 90's stock mustang brakes. Everything bolted right on . And installed new cables for e-brake.
Yes everyone has moments of donkey backwards it can be painful but you stuck it out.
Should have a can in the vacume line to stop gas fumes
Isnt there a difference between drum brake master cylinder and disc or is that in proportion valve?
this was great thanks for the extra lessons
I noticed the position of the bleeder as soon as you mounted the caliper. Means a lot that you are willing to show your mistakes. I call them backing plates too. Really like the stool you were using. You can use a master cyl. from an E250 early 80s van. Works great for manual brakes, and has a 1 1/4 inch bore. Should bolt right up. I used one on my Heep when I did a rear disc swap. Will lock up all four 38" tires and stops on a dime
I found myself screaming at the screen "the calipers are on upside down"
2LB residual valves for disk brakes