2003 Nissan Sentra Front Calipers, Brake Hoses, & Complete Brake Service -Fixing it Forward

33 thoughts on “2003 Nissan Sentra Front Calipers, Brake Hoses, & Complete Brake Service -Fixing it Forward”

1. What was nissan thinking with that rear axle beam design??

2. did carpartkings go out of business ?

3. When did Brian the Camera Guy become such a blabbermouth – yeesh!

4. ERIC! Dude, heat the bleeder screw up with a torch then pour some ice water on it……the sudden expansion/contraction of the metals breaks the rust and once you start doing this you will almost never break another bleeder screw. Surprised how you wind up replacing calipers just because you cannot get the bleeder screw broke loose……come on guy…..use the old school method…..IT WORKS!

5. The welded ball joint video, I thought the Clintons would have taken care of that by now

6. Replaced my hose as depicted (on Nissan); don't understand how you make sure hole in flexline ring is aligned with hole in bolt that holds it on?

7. 35:30 It's like you're milking a very large japanese cow lol

8. yourare tha best I don't know who to put the washer thanks for that details

9. PRO TIP: before replacing a seized caliper, try taking it off and smashing it on the ground. My dad taught me that trick and saved me some money! Really nasty black brake fluid came out, must have been the clog coming loose. Also don’t forget to lubricate the piston with silicone.

10. how do fix a rusted caliper on a 1998 Nissan Sentra I'm a beaning mechanic but getting better as I go this message is for you Eric Car Guy help me out with a few tips.

11. 16:10 "In an effort to minimize blood loss" in that cheeky voice lol

12. To anyone that is doing this: all are 10mm I had to use a regular wrench for the back 2 because the brake fluid line is right under the nipple(turn to your right to get loose) for the front I used a flare nut wrench (turn left to loosen)…drum in back/disk in front setup for the gxe models. also the nipple on the drum is at the top on the back..the nipple for the front is pointing to the front

13. @ EricTheCarGuy for a 2003-2007 Honda Accord that recently had the front brakes & rotors replaced; There was a squealing noise (metal on metal) coming from the front driver side wheel while driving as if some metal type object was stuck by the rotor/brakes, then it went away & it had a faint but noticeable smell of burnt metal once parked. I took it to a Honda Dealership & of course when I took it there it wasn't replicating the issue, they checked it out & said they found nothing. It did it again & this time was was making a METAL GRINDING noise & was able to show them (Honda) when I took it there again, they re-diagnosed it & said there was a brake caliper BOLT on the upper inside that had come LOOSE because they did NOT TORQUE it all the way according to them, they also replaced the front driver's side BRAKE CALIPER & torqued the inner bolt they referenced to be tight/secured. After everything seems fine for a few months now & one day I heard a squealing noise (no metal grinding noise just squealing) while turning the car left momentarily then the sound went away & when I parked shortly thereafter there was no slight burning metal smell. Fast forward approximately two months after that & there is still no noise or any noticeable issues (Drove in the Colorado Mountain highways, etc.) Do you think everything will stay fine with this issue or is there any cause for concern from that very brief metal screetching sound that I heard a few months ago? If it happens again I'll take it in again to be checked out & if it does happen what could be the problem? (Not lubricated properly? If the 'Inner upper Caliper bolt is loose/needs to be Torqued again then what is that an indication of?). Any chance you could do a video demostration (and tag me) of this showing how that Upper-Inner Caliper brake bolt should be Torqued & if it's not torqued properly how it effects the metal grinding/noise and pointing out how the brakes/caliper/rotors should be properly lubricated in case some how they missed that step or didn't grease it properly. Any recommendations on a mechanic shop that you would recommend around DENVER, CO? Where are you located? Thank You

14. Can I ask if my ABS Module were bad, would the Abs light have to be lit?

15. At 38:25 I deadass thought you were about to say “My fat American fingers are having trouble getting into these tiny Japanese holes” and I was about to lose my shit lol

16. Just throw that car in the garbage lol.

17. Eric
    What did you said at 21:35
    Did you said : Sa sert a rien ?
    Do you speak french !!! ???

18. Eric… This is exactly why I pay you guys the big bucks. I just don't have the patience for this kind of stuff anymore.

19. why not use a torch and heat bleeder?

20. I really miss these old videos

21. I purchased those autogrip pliers! They look good

22. i watch you sleep as well

23. He has 4 right tire on that car.

24. Most of the trouble with Banjo washers lately is because they're made from recycled copper, that has been work hardened. Raw, virgin copper is very soft, and works as it should. Also- the correct annealing process is important. Typical Chinesium- but it's our own fault. Our own Pennies aren't even pure copper anymore. New plumbing is now mostly PEX and PVC, so sweat soldering bare bright copper is old school. ROHS solder is crap any way.

25. how do your "stupid fat american fingers" go with subaru sparkplugs?

26. I know this was a year ago, the bleeder broke off, the caliper should have been replaced or the bleeder drilled out and re-tapped.

27. you need kroil my friend. I have a truck that spent a year down at the coast and I was able to free the bleeders without messing them up.

28. On the last frozen bleeder I had, I used a stud remover socket – the head was stripped before I got to it

29. I was screaming at the screen when you were doing the last caliper not to push your luck when doing the bleeder valve.

30. Sorry Eric, can't say that I snore. You lose!

31. It looked like the piston did move a little on the passenger side when you were clamping it with the pliers. That makes me think it was the inner liner of the rubber brake lines that had collapsed and caused that problem with the calipers as I've experienced the exact same problem on the 95 neon I'm working on in my videos. I didn't have to replace the calipers, just the rubber lines; though I didn't break off the bleeders.

32. at 31;00 ,because a lot of mechanics have been half ass trained !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

33. love the way you lube and clean the hardware !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! sooooo many guys do NOTHING because they say it wastes time !!!! REALLY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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