My Salvage Porsche 911’s Suspension is WRECKED! Let’s make it BETTER than NEW!

36 thoughts on “My Salvage Porsche 911’s Suspension is WRECKED! Let’s make it BETTER than NEW!”

1. Thanks for the fcp euro tip.

2. if it's not broken you will fix it till it is

3. You can ask project Farm for how to unscrew a jam stuck screw

4. Boy the way you work! For a guy who has never really worked on cars though you get through it.

5. Why didn't you heat the knuckle up? That's bolt removal 101.

6. what about rebuilding rear suspension bushes and links?

7. hi you need to apply some anti sieze to the threeds when you reasemble the new parts to stop them siezing in

8. Helo coils, chickens, cows & pizza delivery cars. WTF is going on here??

9. Great job. I'm so glad you are a humble and transparent person… It makes me feel good that I'm not the only one who starts a half day project that turns into a month long complete tear-down/re-build.

   I didn't watch the next episode yet, but I'd say you may have an issue with with welding the bumper. Typically bumper covers are polyurethane (not a true thermoplastic like poly-polypropylene or polyethylene (or polycarbonate)). Good luck. Better off with thin aluminum patch with pop-rivets (as long as you have a not-very visible area).

   Really enjoyable watching.

10. Ive watched a few of your salvage videos now and it's cool as bud!!! B U T " your approach to some things is a bit rushed. Take your time and just sit back and think of what can be done before you go in and attack the job at hand! For instance the floor on your Ferrari could of easily been welded a bit at a time with a fire watcher using a tig welder and could of been restored to a perfect factory finish!!!
    Look keep on doing this as it's something I'd love to do if I had more time and money! But just apply a bit of philosophical thought into the job at hand it will make life easier dude!!!

11. VGK 3 – SJ 0 3rd 10:47

12. Welcome to working on Canadian cars

13. The classic steel bolt in aluminium housing. Around here people drive these in the winter too, with the salt, yup, they strip easy, however gentle you wanna be.

14. When making threads allways remember to cut the removed eccess material by turning back whole 360° after every 180° going in. 🙂

15. Canadian cars are no joke to work on…

16. you should use WD40 an hour before disasambly 🙂

17. Galling is not cold welding, galling happens when you screw a bolt in and the threads gall up or get smashed and lock into each other
    What you’re experiencing is probably rust “welding” where the rust in the threads shrinks the hole or expends the bolt
    Best bet is a real oxygen acetylene torch and a rose bud to cherry the metal and if you expect an issue, hit the bolt head with a hammer a few times which will help knock the corrosion loose and release the bolt
    Also if the bolt moves a little and tightens up, go back and forth on the bolt to loosen it up, pbblaster helps as well
    Cheers

18. FFS……it’s a BOLT.not a fkn screw.

19. Go knights!

20. If you used a real torch instead of a plumbers torch you would have had enough heat to get the bolt out , but you could have just left the calipers alone and not caused all the issues in the first place.

21. All the problems in the knuckle are caused by galvanic corrosion which is an electrochemical process that occurs when you have two different types of metal, water and a very small electrical current present resulting in stuck screws and bolts.

22. I see all these comments about how the hole can't be square by hand.
    This is true when drilling a new hole but there was a hole already so the bit centered itself. It most likely is pretty square.

23. As a hack DIY guy, I really can identify with the way you do things.

24. You really don't know what you're doing. Cowboy mechanics

25. Man your content is cool, just the quality of your videos suck. Those breakups …….. poooh

26. You need to try a real oxygen acetylene torch. You got to be careful what you're doing it around so you don't melt wires and you know bearing seals and stuff like that, but you heat it as red hot as you can get and put a cold water soaked rag on it and that helps break that rust weld right apart.

27. Actually what you should have done first before you start any job requiring removing of fasteners, YOU SHOULD HAVE SPRAYED ALL FASTENERS WITH WD-40 OR PB BLASTER at night and to let it soak all night by the time you show up in the morning , the fasteners would have already been ready to remove. THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE WITH GALVANIC CORROSION!

28. Actually let me correct you. GALLING only happens when you turn the screw forcing chunks of it off into the threads due to high heat. What happened to this particular fastener is called GALVANIC CORROSION because the fastener was locked down from the get go. Your welcome!

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

29. Welcome to Canada lol
    I think you are running to this problems because the car was from Canada.
    It's common problem to us too much salt

30. BYE THE WAY NICE CAR

31. JUST BUY A TAP KIT USE A CENTER PUNCH MAKE SURE IT'S CENTER DRILL AND TAP IM A METAL WORKER WITH TOOL AND DIE TRAINING I SEE YOU DO GOOD WORK I KNOW YOU WOULD BE ABLE TO HANDLE IT. BETTER THAT YOU GOT NEW PARTS HA HA

32. I enjoy your videos but I wish they had better image quality. At least a Sony A7sII and set up the exposure on the center. Cheers

33. I just HAVE to say you should have gotten an oxi acetylene torch and heated around the bolt not the bolt metal expands when you heat it that's why you heat it….

34. Your channel is a good channel. With that being said, I would watch a lot more if there was less talking and more work being done.
    With that being said, love your builds just can't stay awake through an episode.

35. New to the channel and loving your work. I think I’ll stick to computers and electronics; this stuff seems like a nightmare

36. the part that you can't screw up was the drilling part you need a guide to be perfectly square and perpendicular

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