New 1200Hp Intercooler Core For The Twin Turbo Mr2!

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37 thoughts on “New 1200Hp Intercooler Core For The Twin Turbo Mr2!

  1. I know I'm late to the game here, but you really need to radius your ends on your intercooler. That's whether entering or leaving air, because in airflow terms, your dead heading your air flow straight into the flat ends.
    Which kills your smooth air, and creates turbulence, that destroys your whole build flow characteristics you've built into everything else. Imagen a boulder in a river, and how the water flows and swirls around it to create a pocket on downstream side, that actully creates a negative flow. Now let's take it a step further, and visualize what your doing with those square end caps on your entering, and leaving air for your precooler.
    Imagen a sheet of plywood, and your trying to hold it against a strong wind blowing straight at you and it. Dam near impossible for you to fight the wind, and hold onto the plywood, because of the straight line forces against you, Yet, if it were tapered to you outlet, are inlet pipe sizes, with a radius heel, that transitioned out to your square dimension, then your resistance to the air's velocity would be greatly reduced.
    Simply because now, instead of slamming straight into you and the plywood with all it's force, it's more like sliding down one of those big spiral slides at the water parks. It flows as smooth, and with hardly any of the turbulence of the boulder in the stream effect .
    All you need is a vertical band saw, and a little practice marking your fittings accordingly, and any internal welds need to be ground smooth as if your porting and polishing heads are intakes, to smooth the flow as much as possible to reduce as much of the turbulence as you possibly can. By doing so, you'll gain back all your air that you worked so hard to build with your radius fittings in your round pipe either exhaust are supply air from your turbos.
    Sorry for the long boring educational speech, but it's best way I could think of to explain the damage you've do to your excellent piping job up until that point. I hope this helps, and I by no means am being critical of you, but trying to expand your knowledge of air flow characteristics to help you get everything your working so hard to achieve. You'll be amazed at the air/power you'll gain if you do these simple things that I spoke of, and the dyno will verify what I'm saying easily enough. The gentleman above explaining the welding techniques of leaving a gap, and beveling your joints is absolutely correct too, but welds are worthless in cases of high pressures as your going to have inside, but remember to grind them smooth on inside if possible to reduce drag and air turbulence.

  2. Here's an idea: Mount the intercooler on the FRONT of the car since it's all open up there anyway. If not there then I'd mount it on top of the back like a rally car's radiator.

  3. weld a bead around the intercooler before you weld the end tanks in, prevents you from burning through the thinner material that the fins and bars are made out of.

  4. A well planned out scoop might work. How would that affect aerodynamics down the drag strip? Would NACA ducts mounted upside down provide enough forced air? Also think about the debris field.

  5. Opening the trunk from above will let a lot more fresh air into the cooler, then letting it our through the back or below

    Do some research on rear mounted intercoolers and you will find out a lot of people do it likewise.

  6. Have you considered doing curved back plate for air flow and efficiency ? I think it will kill the air flow and therefore reducing the power it could make with a fat core like this one. Can't wait to see the MR2 finished

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