In this episode we do some road tuning and modifications to the cooling system and further tweaks to the boost controller configuration.
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Music:
02:43 – Homework – Måns Billner
12:48 – Phantom Sage – Kingdom (feat. Miss Lina)
28:14 – Fareoh – Cloud Ten
Iv had the same problem on gsx and it was jusst a boost leak them rubber cuplings
I appreciate the comments trying to help but DAMN are these people bad at giving advice in a proper way lmao. "you're doing it wrong" "learn to read" "YOU ARE RUNNING TOO RICH"
If you wanna give feedback, give it in a constructive way. Chris has stated many many times that he's NOT A CAR MECHANIC. He's learning as he goes. He WILL do things wrong. He WILL screw things up (and already has).
Again, it's cool you're trying to help but don't be an ass about it, think about how you sound in your words as if someone would be talking like that to you irl. You're working on a passion project with little knowledge of how to do it because you just want to learn and then some assholes start shouting that you're doing it all wrong rather than just giving feedback "you could do it better this way" or anything like that. I get that most of y'all are like me, anti-social people that sit behind their computer a lot, but learning to give feedback, especially to people you want to succeed, is a good skill to have.
I don’t know much about cars and watching this channel has helped me a lot even tho I’m not going to be doing a 2JZ swap into my Jetta. BUT from what I’ve been hearing. It seems like the car doesn’t have enough time to push the gas through the fuel line so you may just not be getting enough fuel. So that lag could be the time between when you are going at a rolling 20- then you punch it. That could be what is causing the lag.
Keep going bro!
Were is the Mustang!?
How do you road tune?
Lovely and sexy build you have there!! Good luck.
This runs SOOOO rich! There is so much power being left on the table but of course, stock ecu limitations. Overall very cool build and awesome car for what it is, I'd say you definitely achieved your goal. Wish you were closer, I'd love to get this on my dyno and dialed in for you, it's a very cool build! Good work!
MegaSquirt
modern ecus often tend to cut out if they see more than a % of their designed boost for more than 3sec or so. You also seem to overboost pretty hard. It starts at 19.x PSI and then drops to 14.x This could indicate a bad or slow controlling of the turbos and could also trigger a safety cutout. maybe thers a way to fool the pressure sensor going to the ECU?
Could it be injectors??
Maybe your injectors are maxing out and your ecu is adjusting for that.
R154 swap or w58 all day.
its clear the car is tuned for way more boost from how rich the car is running
Def wayyy to richhh u want like 12.5:1 at WOT thats optimal
how much hp?
do it right from the first time by the time you tally up all these expenses by messing with it you probably end up spending the same amount if not more im surprise you havent learn from your past experience with the mustang…….
This could be completely wrong but my Mazdaspeed Miatas (Factory Turbo Miata) suffers from a similar issue with the stock ECU. The TPS uses different readings depending on its position. When its between 0-70% the tune works great, but when between 70-100% it hesitates and its response time is terrible. I believe its refered to as open and closed loop. When the TPS is bellow 70% response and fuel is instant. In the case of my MSM the issue isn't boost, its fueling which becomes extremely noticeable when running higher boost levels. But you could have a similar issue related to the TPS and open and closed loop. You can actually unplug your TPS on the MSM and you will run open or closed loop, can't remember which one. But it removes the issue. Others have tried using voltage restrictions so the TPS never thinks it goes above 70%. But I had mixed results when trying it.
B is for Boof
Not something you can do right now with your time pressure but in the long run, have a look at the MegaSquirt ECU range. They take a lot more planning than some of the big names out there but they are much, much cheaper. I've installed an MS3/X in my Lotus Esprit and it does everything every other ECU does but my kit was something like 550USD. You could probably get away with an MS2/X, which would be even cheaper. I needed the MS3 as the Lotus has 6 fuel injectors. 4 primary's and two secondary's in the plenum that are staged.
"This episode is brought to you from Mexico"
Chris. Really sounds like the car is getting pissed off over AFR. My guess is the car is pulling timing in an attempt to correct the AFR. Take a good obd2 code reader and watch the real time timing adjustment.
Is it auto?
Yo have air in your heater hoses because the heater isn't on when you are bleeding the system. The cooling system won't suck air in because it is under pressure. You need to have the heater running while bleeding it
Man, let spiderbro be, he ain't messing up your shot.
Have you checked your throttle position sensor ?
Your running rich as fuck. That's your problem. Learn your afr numbers
Been working on tuning my truck for weeks. I know the pain. My subs are getting anxious too lol
Criss! Keep the g35 and turn it into a Vaydor!
Too rich, ecu is probably freaking out at you trying to push so much boost through everything. Just run wastegate pressure until you can get an aftermarket ecu that you can get those afrs right. Running that boost on a standard ecu is kinda pointless to me because you can't change the fuel and air variable to make the boost level safe. And that's on top of taking into consideration the fuel cut that's probably happening bc it's so damn rich. Quit wasting time and go single turbo and manual, going against the grain is fun and all but will end up costing you so much money and time for so little gain.
Are you hitting knock? Too many counts will cut. Usually happens when peak torque hits.
i had that exact problem on my rx7 twin, was something to do with the rats nest vac line set up and solenoids so i just went single
This has been said already, but you need to figure out why you are over-fueling for the air the engine is receiving. You are way in or below the 10's. There is TONS of fuel going into that engine compared to the air you have going in, so ….you must have a boost leak after your MAF or whatever you are using to determine your air on the intake side….If you are running on MAP, then you might be pulling vacuum correctly at your MAP sensor point, but it's not accurate (due to a leak further downstream) for the air/vacuum going into the intake plenum.
Another great point you bring up is that under low load, low boost conditions is that it runs fine. But when you get to bigger boost this small leak under low-load becomes a HUGE leak under big boost. And this is not boost on your intercooler kind of thing, it's boost leaking as it goes into the manifold past wherever you are sensing your signal from (MAF, MAP, etc.)
unplug the line out of the map sensor
it is only used for boost cut in the vvti 2jz
take line off and plug the line
i was having issue i did the above and i had no problem getting past 15psi lol no more cutout
heres a fix try to not run a 10 AFR start at 1 Lambda and go from there
Should just go single turbo n manual transmission already.
For one you should take a step back and go over all your work, you had coolant issues and took you 4 attempts with the leaking line to find it. Get a second set of eyes to go over all your work. Factor all mechanical issues out then you'll be able to confidently tune and trouble shoot sensor issues, boost leaks, fuel or timing issues. Slow down to speed up
You really want to go with an Apex'i SAFC? I had one of those in my 4g63t swapped 92 Dodge Colt hatchback because the 1g Talon ecu didn't have an EPROM. It was junk.
I watched that and got the impression that the ecu is pulling ignition timing and hitting fuel cut. Do you have a data log? I want to see your knock counts and the rich condition might be causing it. I see a lot of ignorant bs being left here. Guys this is a first timer trying to street tune, cut him some slack.
Why don't you just wire it up properly, why you did all the extra wiring I don't know. The shell had everything you needed to wire up that motor. Relays here and there, what the hell for?