2JZ BRZ Pt 38 – WTF Water in the Cylinder Head?

In this episode we do some emu skin waterproofing in the wheel wells, upgrades to the cooling system, and then button up the car to prepare it for the road. Later we take the 60 mile journey down the road to the countryside for some boost controller tuning only to find we had a really strange problem in cylinder 1..

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Music:
00:24 – Lean Away (Instrumental Version) – Da Tooby
04:15 – Turning Tide – Jack Elphick
14:34 – Head Nod Supreme 5 (Scratch Version) – Jack Elphick
21:10 – Fareoh – Cloud Ten

source

Author: phillyfinestnews

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49 thoughts on “2JZ BRZ Pt 38 – WTF Water in the Cylinder Head?

  1. Water wont tend to get past the spark plugs like you would think, spark plugs are pressure bearing or you won't have good combustion. Water was probably getting sucked in by your open element filter and causing your intermittent MAF issue as well as slowly filling your cylinders with water. You are very luck you didn't crank the boost up and or suck in enough water to cause serious damage. hydro-locking is a real problem in rainy and wetter places especially with cold air intakes. Good luck and keep up the work.

  2. Started off enjoying your tubes but really. You could not possible be as naive about cars as you appear. Some of your solutions to this FT86 are just dumb and we’re never going to work. Water somehow got through the hood into a spark plug? Ridiculous! As for driving your held together with wire and chewing gum car on an open road with other road users, that’s just incredibly irresponsible, dangerous, and probably a federal offence. Another big neg is associating with TJ Hunt, but seeing as you both have about the same IQ where cars, and how to work on them, are concerned it figures. On the positive side you don’t have an annoying side kick like he does.

  3. I was reading comments wondering how no one figured out that water got in through the gap between the hood and the bumper. It was then sucked in through the intake. You’re lucky that you didn’t hydrolock it.

  4. It’s suffocating .. 1.) CAI … route cooler air thru underbody and create some pressurization .. 2.) SMIC .. get rid of the CX Racing , and source 2 x garage wifbitz SMIC… way more efficient for road race … your not running 1000hp in a drag car , 500hp is perfect for a force fed SMIC “OEM like” setup … so you have plenty of scalability there .. good luck , you’ve inspired many!

  5. Chris, you seem like a really genuine dude and not a douche, which is the complete opposite of Tj hunt. I understand that Tj has large following and that in turn will probably grow yours, but man is that guy a douche sandwich.

  6. Hey Chris, hate to be the bearer of bad news, but we can see your speedometer, which means law enforcement can see it. This video could be used as evidence of reckless driving against you. All it would take is one cop, with a bug you know where, that lives nearby and wants to take action. Maybe take it down and edit the speedo with a little cleaver blurring? ….it's in the news all the time, goes fast/ posts a video/ gets arrested ….anyway your call.😎👍🏻

  7. Your overflow bottle can be anywhere as long as the coolant level in it never drops below the pickup. The issue with your current setup is that if you do overheat the car you will have a coolant geyser under the hood. Put a 90 degree fitting in the top of the cap on the reservoir and route a hose to where you would want the coolant to vent in the event of a boil-over. Your face will like you for it.

  8. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure you used a T then ran off the T to the boost controller and have the boost controller venting. That's totally not correct. The boost controller is supposed to go inline with no T. It's not like the AEM one. That's why boost isnt changing

  9. The Aristo trans is a 4speed, not a 5 speed FYI. Chris, your speed issue is the stock ECU. It has a speed limiter set at 112mph. With your rear end gearing off of what its programmed for in the Aristo you're probably hitting it early. I hit it at about 108 or so in my IS300 with the GTE swap. To bypass it, you need an HKS SLD Type 2 speed limiter defencer. Make sure it's a type 2. You wire it into the factory ECU. There is also a boost/fuel cut on these computers as well but its around 14-15psi, but maybe that could be causing your boosting issue.

    Realistically, you have a boost leak somewhere. I'd check and double check your intercooler pipe hosing. Also, like I said before I would junk the CXRacing BOV. They're junk and I've never heard of one of them not leaking. Hope you figure it out.

    And I know you want to keep things on the cheaper end, but a standalone really would solve all of these issues, plus it's the only way you're going to make more than 600 horsepower, as you can only go up a size so big on injectors with an SAFC, about 650cc is the biggest you can go on an SAFC and it run right. So if you ever plan for more than 500-600 I would get a standalone instead of wasting money on further biggyback's and wiring additions.

  10. The boost issue is probably because your waste gate only has a 10 pound spring, boost controller isnt for turning up boost its for turning it down, so get a spring that will allow you to make 20psi then you can bring it down from there

  11. With that fabric why don't you make a mold for a fibreglass piece? Just a suggestion. There is a fibre glass resin endorsed by meade916 on youtube called sunflash. There is a video of him putting the resin to a test. He put a piece that he made he put it in the sun for a few minutes and it was rock hard. I thought since fiberglass is on the lighter side it would keep your engine bay dry and could be put in so it looks aesthetically pleasing. Just a thought

  12. Haha yup vents above engine and water messing with the plugs, learnt that the hard way. And toss out the wierd T piece with the boost controller, just use the tap part and rig it wich ever way bleeds. Had one like that once and never got the pos to work right with the T.

  13. is the boost controller hooked up right ? manual controller is meant to go to bottom port and to the top port as well .so air goes to the bottom as normal to open to valve and air to the top port to hold the valve closed till it reaches what ever its set to by turning the dail AKA the bleed dial .good work tho car looks sick and sounds really good

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