Budget Lotus Evora Pt 30 – Paint Fail Round 1

In this episode we clean up the shop and get to painting, we start with a sealer primer on the bumper and two side panels. After that we attempt to spray our single stage white on the body panels, without much luck. But in the end we found a great configuration for the next attempt.

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Music:
01:37 – Krayzius – Enemies
07:14 – Zerryx & Midranger – Crystal
10:37 – Seum Dero – Stories
14:51 – Fareoh – Cloud Ten

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32 thoughts on “Budget Lotus Evora Pt 30 – Paint Fail Round 1

  1. I see some good painting tips here (then…i know it's old comments), but I don't see any one telling him to stop feathering the paint on where he should be broad stroking. It's almost like he's brushing it into hard to reach spots (but all over the car), and if he had placed the items correctly any sprayed long, continuous broad strokes he wouldn't have so much issue.

  2. Chris, you got the fluid needle and the fan pattern mixed up.
    he fluid needle is the one at the back of the gun in line with the fluid needle. the more you wind that out, the more fluid you put onto the job, which is probably why you got such mad paint runs.
    The fan adjustment is the one on the side, and that adjusts the fan pattern. Just remember that for your next paint project to avoid runs!

  3. I know this guy is all about DIY but I would have done everything EXCEPT paint and turn these panels over to a pro. But hey! He's learning!

  4. You're getting a lot of your runs because your gun is too close as well as the flow being off. I'm hopeful your new compressor will set you up for more consistency with a full size gun.

  5. Painter here, HVLP means high volume low pressure, the gun uses more volume of air at a lower pressure, you actually need a higher cfm compressor to run it efficiently. I would say a conventional gun setup would be better on a smaller compressor.

  6. Air Compressors are additive.  You can get another identical 120v air compressor to run in tandem with the one you already have.  Some messing around with the pressure switches on them may be required, but ~3cfm +~3cfm = ~6cfm.

  7. if you want to get those panels to stop moving like that when you spray it a good trick is to get 2 jacks and some wire and put the wire trough the 2 holes for the door latch and tie one end of the wire to one jack and the other end to another jack and keep both jacks as far away from one another as possible this will hold the bottom of the panel in place so it doesn't sway

  8. make SURE that you get ALL of that sealer off of the bumper before you spray more on it or your paint will begin to bubble and peel horibly

  9. ok. i have now watched a couple of builds. if i may hive you a few pointers for future builds that will really help. First go buy a real diagnostic tool. 262621539692 is a good item on ebay and i can personally assure you it has near dealer level on pretty much anything. it should be the first thing you do when you get a car and probably the last thing you do when shaking a car down. secondly. safety. here in the uk you would need to replace airbags and seatbelt mechs to pass inspection and no fault lamps are allowed either. i realise these things are expensive but they are important items you are ignoring. lastly. small patches of riveted sheet metal… someone needs to help you with proper metalworking skills. Great builds otherwise.. great to see someone learning all the time and doing work.

  10. The reaction looks like fish eyes from silicone being present, maybe a silicone release agent was used for the bumper when produced or similar. You normally have to take it right back and ensure theres no silicone residue left on the bumper.

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