Budget Lotus Evora Pt 4 – Fixing Suspension

In this episode we disassemble the rear upper and lower control arms, moving bushings and bearings as well as sliding around some camber bolts and camber plates to adjust our suspension components back to the correct placement.

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Music:
01:39 – Fareoh – Cloud Ten
06:28 – Alan Walker – Fade
11:19 – Alan Walker – Force
15:20 – Fareoh – Cloud Ten

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49 thoughts on “Budget Lotus Evora Pt 4 – Fixing Suspension

  1. there are 3 things you don't fuck with on a car… (cut corners).  brakes , suspension and driveshafts. spend the money and do it right.

  2. just so you and others know a lot of those parts are designed to bend or break so that the other more expensive parts are safe and there is a lot of things that can just be bent back instead of replaced your shooting for useable not show room specs

  3. How do you know the rear suspension geometry is back in place down to the mm? Would be really cool te find out how this handles compared to a normal Evora??

  4. just found your channel and absolutely love it. this Evora playlist is by far my favorite! to bad I never seen this at the time you made it. I have a machine shop and could spit out that adjustment bolt in about 10 minutes! cheers buddy keep up the good work!

  5. I know you probably already have a ton of comments about this, but the threaded rod with left and right hand threads is commonly referred to as a turnbuckle as it adjusts the length of the linkage without completely disassembling it. This is necessary for steering linkage/alignment.

    Here is an example of one: https://autoplicity.com/7396512-steinjager-j0028429-steinjager-jack-screw-turnbuckles-adjusters-m16-x-200-plated-zinc-yellow-109mm-long?1&gclid=CjwKEAiAq8bEBRDuuOuyspf5oyMSJAAcsEyWdlUkQQOSKDH_Y4-mYjUPXYni0aA0mp7ypPoC6Qrm0RoCH0_w_wcB

  6. Buy the toe link assy from Lotus. You don't want to cheap out for a critical suspension part. I'm very familiar with various alloys, machining processes and heat treats. You can make a part that looks identical, and is 1/10th the strength of the original. Safety first.

  7. Torch + Aluminum? Sounds like a bad idea for the same reason you shouldn't powdercoat aluminum wheels. Not sure if there is a difference between cast and forged.

  8. It's too late now, but what you need is a machinist friend with lathe knowledge. There;s a guy, Abom79, has a YouTube channel, he's an excellent machinist. He could've easily turned that threaded rod out in a matter of minutes. Maybe you should start a dialog with him for the future.

  9. they probably won't just sell you the bolt because if you snapped the tie rod chances are there may be stress cracks on the tie rod ends. Don't really want to cheap out on something that holds your wheels in place. Regular All thread is most likely not the right grade and would snap in no time.

  10. I dont know if you managed to get that tie rod adjuster shaft with the left and right hand threads, but if you bought a piece of decent quality hex bar and take it to a machine shop, it should take about 30mins to machine what you need. For the price you quoted for the original, you could probably have two made and have a spare for later.

    How that helps

  11. The entire (ok probably half since it a wish bone) side force of the rear wheels is taken up by that tiny metal plate that is riveted to the subframe? Huh? How did the design thinking go there?

  12. Im a late operator, if you sent me the dimensions and thread size I could make that little part in no time, I am a bit late to the party lol but I can help.

  13. Quick question can't tell from the video. Does the top two bolts that bolt the damper top mount plate to the frame on the shock towers have a nut on the top or is it a threaded welded to the body? I know it's only a 17ftlb on those bolts so maybe threaded nut on the body? curious to replace mine with rear clam on (shop manual notes it's possible).

  14. 14:20 you sound like Rick from "Rick and Morty". Best adult cartoon if you've never seen it. Numb your brain and youtube a quality rip. Its so damn funny.

  15. just a thought- your broken piece is just the opposite of a turnbuckle (male threads instead of female) if you can salvage enough of the reverse threaded rod off the original it just might be made to work. or try to find the correct reverse thread cutting die and fabricate( although a specialty die like this might cost more than a new part. oh, and one more thing, please use some kind of pointer when discussing specific pieces.    am having a good time learning about lotus construction-keep it up!

  16. See, that's proper engineering there: That plate is sacrificial. A bucks worth of aluminium has saved tens of thousands worth of chassis damage – because Lotus know what they're doing and put the plate in there. Look at any built to cost sports car and that kind of damage would need a new sub frame. Really loving this series, looks like this car will be on the road sooner than you think!!

  17. Won't it be cheaper to machine out the broken rod out of some quality steel? A traditional machinist would fab it up in 1h of work…

  18. hint, to obtain the rear toe link adjustment bolt contact a lotus dealer as they are likely to hold a old toe link lying around as apart of a service recall on the V6 Exige and Evora which could pinch?

  19. rear tie link.

    Take a left hand bolt and a right hand bolt in the correct size and thread and weld the heads together…

  20. As mentioned below take it to a machine shop they will match up the hex stock and can make you the entire piece for less than 50 dollars

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