Re: P0325 Knock Sensor Diagnosis – EricTheCarGuy

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Some great points were brought up in the comments of the original video including that I was not using my meter to check the resistance of the circuit correctly when I did the resistance check on the knock sensor therefore I HAD to make this video covering that mistake along with video of doing the test properly and how to set the multimeter. I also take the opportunity to show the different settings on a DVOM and how to use them so I think this video stands on it’s own just for that purpose.

Here’s a link to the original video.

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26 thoughts on “Re: P0325 Knock Sensor Diagnosis – EricTheCarGuy

  1. Hi, Eric good explanation.
    So the knock sensor is fine ?
    On the car ( I believe is the new one on the car right!
    So should have the knock sensors under 700 hms ?
    400 to 700!
    Because I got the P0325 code sensor 1 bank 1 says there circuit bank one, and I don't know how to test it.
    My car is toyota 4runner 1999 3rd generation.
    I just got 2 days ago this code.
    Thank you again Eric….for you video.
    If you can help me, thanks thoms up.👍

  2. Dude what is beep mode? I assume you mean continuity ? FYI continuity is not resistance it’s the reciprocal of resistance. Or in simple terms opposite of resistance it’s a good test for wires coils and things like diodes not for checking resistance

  3. Yo man so I had a knock sensor CEL on and replaced the sensor 3 times thinking they were bad sensors. but not knowing I was accidentally connecting the power steering plug into the knock sensor and the knock sensor plug into the power steering plug. Once I found out I switched the plugs but the cel was still on and I drove it about 200 miles now and still on. Could I have broken all the sensors I bought by plugging the power steering plug into it? I have also checked continuity it beeps every time so I know the harness is good. Should I just buy another plug and try it again? I have a 2000 civic with a d16y8 engine

  4. My element 2006 engine light was checked with code p0325 few months @t said "knock sensor, and battery voltage low." I replaced new knock sensor. Then engine light disappeared. then the battery was tested still good. But battery power run out. I replace a brand new battery. So far it is OK. Lately, when I turn on the ignition. It is hard to turn on, second time, I can turn on the ignition. I went to ask the mechanic, one store mechanic said it is not the fuel pump, It is starter. Second store mechanic said fifty-fifty starter issue. When the gasoline is in low tank, it is hard to turn the ignition. After I fill full tank of gasoline. Turn on the ignition has no problem. Yesterday, my engine light on again. I have O'reily check the engine code again. It said P0325 knock sensor, and battery voltage low.
    I have already replace brand new knock sensor and brand new battery three months ago. So, what is the really issue of code P0325 to my element? Be advise. Thanks,

  5. Good Morning @Eric i have a subaru forester 1999 , since yesterday i have a probleme its like my car is rumning on 3 cylinders, when i check the plug i dont see spark coming out of it .
    question 1 in the plug are all of them have the same resistam omhs (negative) or the same voltage (positive)

    because i track it to the ECU and dont seem cut or dammage .ppls saying i should change my Ecu .

    Help please .

  6. A knock sensor can be faulty and still pass an ohm test. I had a P0325 code and the knock sensor was within range when checked with a meter. I bought a new one for $12 on Amazon. The ohm readings were the same on both sensors, but the new one put the check engine light out and the Subaru runs like new…👍

  7. Hello Eric, can you read this and help me out? Thank you.
    My Nissan Quest engine seized so I had to replace the engine. I was going to scrap it, but wife said no, fix it okay wifey….

    I bought a nissan quest engine with fairly low miles for 350 only at a junk yard shop. A mechanic, which I don't know him very well, put the engine in. After a week, he called in and said the van is ready. My wife was happy so I did too.

    50% of the Problem : I drove the van from his shop without issue, but I've noticed two things, first one, the fan was on all the time. Probably he couldn't fix the automatic kick on. Second, the alignment was off.

    Serious problem: I drove it today, and the engine wants to stall. The rpm is high and runs rough. When you want to accelerate, the engine seems to be flooded or something choks it. I had to drive it very slowly on interstate with only 40-45 mph with hazards on.

    Hint: This mechanic is very busy. Today, I popped the hood and found couple stuff that he have forgotten to tighten them up.

    1. There is no bolts on fuse boxes under the hood.

    2. the radiator hose that goes to the thermostat housing was not clamped on. Water was leaking.

    3. Cable harness was not tightening up.

    4. Battery was no placed in the correct position.

    Is this mechanic trustable? I would say that he did something wrong to my car. Your insights much appreciated.

    I scanned the emission port, and come up with 2 codes that are belonging to the O2 sensors. I am a light mechanic, but I don't thing the O2 sensors would cause this problem. What would it be the issue? Today, the mechanic said the problem could a knock sensor. But there is not code for knocking sensor. Thanks again.

  8. Erik, I have a 99 Dodge Durango 5.2 it spark knocks a lot unless I run premium in it and that's killin me. There is no knock sensor, EGR and can't turn the timing back. I have a scanner and my long term and short term fuel trims are -1.5, ignition advance runs 3-4 degrees at idle. It has single platinum autolite plugs in it, temp runs about 192. I've done an overnight soak with sea foam, it runs great but can't get rid of the detonation, please help.

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