How To Change Your Oil Part 1 – EricTheCarGuy

This is part one of 2 for this subject, be sure to see the second half by following the link at the bottom of this page. I have to give thanks on this one to my friend Scott Armstrong owner of Armstrong Automotive for letting me use his garage on this one. I have no idea how many times I have changed oil but let me tell you it has been a lot. The funny part is that I still forgot a few things that are basic to the job. I stepped in and made some amendments to the video to give you the most up to date information I could. I think I’ve covered about everything but if I missed anything just post a comment and I will look into it. As always you can also visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com for new updates.

Have fun and be safe.

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Part 2

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

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40 thoughts on “How To Change Your Oil Part 1 – EricTheCarGuy

  1. How about removing oil fill cap to help the oil drain? I think it helps by air being able to come in and not create vacuum. Makes sense?

  2. Hi Eric, I own a 2002 Accord 4 Cyl. With the F23A1 engine, right now it has 61,000 Miles and i'm a little confused in the type of oil i shoud use. The owners manual says i should use 5-20w genuine honda oil (this is the one i'm usisng, don't know what the prev owner was using though), some mechanics say i should use a higher grade oil, but i also read that thick oil can damage my oil pump. The manual says that if i use 5-30w i should change it back to 5-20w ASAP. What engine oil should i use?

  3. fail 1 on my part- to much oil in my dad's crown vic and i started it and it blew the dipstick out, hitting a studen in my shop class XD
    fail 2 on my uncles part- changed the oil and dumped half of a five quart jug of castrol into the radiator, cracking the head and blowing the headgasket.
    Fail 3 on my part- (simple yet aweful) ass raped a buick going 40 miles per hour while going to get cigarettes.
    Figued i would share those with everyone 😀

  4. Something interesting is that the Chevy cobalt i worked on has the paper filter. But luckily it is in a place where it is easy to get to, if you want me or my friend to make a video when we work on a car we would be happy to oblige =) (with this filter had to buy a 32mm socket to get the cap loose so just a heads up) i also have struts to replace soon so let me know ill be happy to do a video and i want Eric to give me some constructive criticism if that's available =)

  5. @increasingrain If your talking about the gasket for the oil filter then you could use pliers but I would just pry up on one edge with a screwdriver, be careful not to scratch the mating surface. You do want to remove it before installing a new filter.

  6. @insider32 It may be how your lifting the vehicle as I lift by those points all the time without incident. It could be your jack or that you may not be on a level surface when you lift it up.

  7. In my car repair adventures, I'm noticed a problem on newer cars. My old Saturn has a nice easy to reach engine cradle and the jack points behind the wheels are nice and firm so I throw jack stands under them.

    On newer cars they have these "standing seams" where the jack points are. Just sticking a jack or jack stand under them one time bends them over. What do you do for these types of cars? Any specific recommendations for jacks?

  8. Since you don't have a lift, you must have a lot of tips and tricks for getting stuff done with jacks. Have you ever considered a whole video dedicated to them?

  9. @mureedahmad Good point, in fact some service procedures say to replace the filter ever other oil change. Personally I prefer to change them with every oil change as this is what is most commonly done, the cost is nominal and it's easy enough to change. Normally only one filter type is made to fit a particular engine but in the automotive world there are a lot of people offering a lot of different solutions.

  10. I have a question…

    Do you HAVE to change the oil filter every time you change your oil? Can oil filters last longer than the oil? In terms of oil filters – do they come in different sizes, special ones for special cars? How does that system all work?

    If you have a video for this, please do direct to that – would save you some time 😛

    Btw – awesome videos – have been watching for over an hour and have learned a lot… Thanks!

  11. @SystemXpander For the ones that are mounted horizontally I would recommend filling half way thus less chance of spilling. I have done this on may cars and has worked fine. I make sure the filter media absorbs the oil as well by rotating the filter canister with the oil inside. I would reccomend this method.

  12. @exoticlown I honestly have no idea, I'd check with your auto part supplier for the answer to that. As for filters there are a lot of quality filters out there to choose from, most of your major brands are a good start.

  13. its also good to fill the oil filter with new oil so the engine doesnt run dry on start up due to the time to fill the oil filter.

  14. @KNTRIDER Also note that sometimes on the outside of the filter housing on cartridge type filters there might be a drain plug that you can use to drain this oil before removing the filter as well. Great comment, thanks.

  15. One more possibly useful piece of information I would like to add is that, on some cars with the cartridge/insert/paper only/whatever-it's-called oil filters, it is a good idea to open the filter housing BEFORE reinstalling the oil pan drain plug – some models retain oil in the filter housing that won't drain unless you open it. It may only be a matter of 0.1 or 0.2 of a litre/quart, on some it may be more, but either way, it is a good idea to drain it out.

  16. This is normal. When oil is cold it is thicker and thus creates more pressure, it's thinner when it warms up so the psi drops a bit. What actually creates pressure is the clearance between the engine parts, not the oil pump.

  17. Ive got a 1990 GMC Sierra that has a 5.7L v8 small block and when i first start my truck the psi is at 30 which is the mid point on my dash gauge… When my truck warms up to full temp (mostly when i go highway or freeway speeds) the oil pressure drops to about 15-20psi… Whenever i rev up the engine from that psi, the level increases temporarily but not to the 30psi level… What would cause this?

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