How To Change Your Oil Part 2 – EricTheCarGuy

As you may have guess this is the second part of this subject. Click on the link at the bottom of this to see part 1. If I missed anything or if you need more information just leave a comment or visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com.

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Part 1

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

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43 thoughts on “How To Change Your Oil Part 2 – EricTheCarGuy

  1. Correct me if I'm wrong but, your oil cap read API service SJ/EC which is a synthetic correct? So even if the car calls for synthetic, is it still up to you?

  2. i wud do my oil filter a little tighter than that cuz pressure is runngin thru there and gasket or not if its got wnouph pressure ot will leak

  3. I worked in fuel additives once. Im cautious about cheap oil as the SAE rating doesnt specify how fast it degrades. Also I know that, as the oil breaks down, the chemical products actually accelerate the oil breakdown. Its called "auto-catalysis" and is, for me, the main reason you change your oil twice as fast as the specification and with the best brand oil you can afford. (I dont have data on brands though!)

  4. Hi just to let you know, The reason its lower when warm is it takes time to recirculate and drain into the oil sump after being pumped around the engine, No M/T should not make a difference, Hope this helps Chris

  5. Hi, I own a 2002 Accord 4 Cyl. With the F23A1 engine, right now it has 61,000 Miles and i'm a little confused in the type of oil i shoud use. The owners manual says i should use 5-20w genuine honda oil (this is the one i'm usisng, don't know what the prev owner was using though), some mechanics say i should use a higher grade oil, but i also read that thick oil can damage my oil pump. The owners manual says that if i use 5-30w i should change it back to 5-20w ASAP. What engine oil should i use?

  6. supertech, that stuff is garbage, I compared it against the basic chevron oil and quaker state conventional oil is was like water, besides supertech where I live is like 25 cents cheaper for the gallon or 5 quart jug, not even worth it. Hey, if ericthecarguy uses it, it must work!

  7. Hey EricTheCarGuy, I have a 2007 Nissan Sentra with 185 000 km on it. Recently I've purchased Castrol High Mileage to be used in my car. The owners manual states to chagne oil every 6000 km. My question is can I switch over to fully synthetic oil at this point? Also I've read with synthetic you don't need to change to oil for 12 000 km, basically doubled as it does not break down. Thanks.

  8. Hey Eric, love your videos.
    In fact I started from the beginning to watch any I've missed when I came across this.

    That manual's engine oil chart has both temperature gradients in Fahrenheit xD One one the bottom should be Celsius.

  9. i dont know if youve found the answer to this in a month and im no expert but the thickness of the oil changes when its warm than cold . when its cold its thicker when its warm its thinner thats all i know.

  10. Is it really normal to change the washer on the drain plug at each oil change? I wonder what percentage of mechanics actually do that. I can see if the washer is obviously worn or damaged in some way. I haven't checked yet, but I suspect that might even be a special order at my GM dealer. lol

  11. Im a tech guy and have no clue about cars but why is it that when i check the oil in my car its full but when its on and warm it looks like it has no oil when i check the oil stick? (i have a 2003 mazdaspeed protege)….i had other cars but i never seen that happen the only difference is that this is my first M/T car so im not sure if that makes a difference?…..

  12. @EricTheCarGuy I have a question about the type of oil you put in ( like in this vid. the 5W-30). What if you change something in the engine eg. put in forged pistons or something do you use the same type of oil?

  13. @macspud28 It also works better on a lift since if you did it that way you wouldn't have any room to work but I hear where you are coming from.

  14. @PQPLAYER92 It's rated energy conserving SM which was the latest at the time. You don't think Wal-Mart refines their own oil do you? Sure the 'name brands' have additives that help your engine last longer but if you use cheep oil like I do and change it regularly you won't have any problems, at least I haven't. Sure if I had spent a bunch of money building an engine I would put the best I could in but in my drivers I save where I can.

  15. @honkytime12 I wouldn't say 'flush' but in the past I have and you can add one quart of trans fluid instead of a quart of oil and run it on an older vehicle like that and it will help clean the inside of the engine.

  16. @DBGuallpa Put 5 in, run the engine and recheck it. If you need more you can add it then but if not your good to go. Just don't overfill it as that would be almost as bad as having it too low.

  17. @AJAcura Nope, just stick with the 5W30 that is recommended on the cap and change it about every 4K or so. I've seen engines start to leak at that mileage when using synthetic oils.

  18. @viperz888 I really wish I would have put that into this video as that is a very good practice, I actually ended up putting it in a later video though.

  19. @EricTheCarGuy umm eric, first time changing the oil in this very car and i kind of went a little too slack on watching the oil level, especially because i didnt have the owners manual, so anyway, i over filled the oil pan by around 0.4 quart i believe, just a little pass the max dot on the dip stick, this should be ok right?

  20. @torquemonsterr It is just as bad because if it's too high it will come into contact with the moving crankshaft and as a result it will get whipped up with air and not lubricate effectively causing engine damage.

  21. @theinfinitedreamer Your correct and it's always a good idea to check the oil after running the engine to make sure it's at the proper level as you did to make sure it's where it's suppose to be, well done.

  22. @EricTheCarGuy Hello Eric in this video you said the oil jug had 5 qts don't assume that. A few years ago I used Advanced Auto Parts oil 5/30 in a 4 qt jug it really had 5. My truck uses 4.5 so I put the 4 qt jug in and another 1/2 qt from another bottle. The level was higher than the full mark after running and waiting a few minutes so I took some out. I bought another jug and measured it had 5 not 4 like stated on bottle. They probably corrected this by now. Thanks for the great videos.

  23. @jhacksim Not really no, the most important thing is to use the correct type that has the latest API rating but you can mix those as well for instance you can mix 5W30 with 10W30, it's just not a good idea if your engine takes 5W30.

  24. @EricTheCarGuy

    Thanks for the reply Eric, ill be sure to do this the next time i change my oil.

    Looking forward to the next video (Y)

  25. @StarlightMassacre In fact I have and I wish I would have showed it in this video. It's a very good practice as it keeps the oil filter primed and begins to oil the engine much faster during start up after the oil change as a result.

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