Replacing Rear Disc Brakes Part 2 – EricTheCarGuy

As you might have guessed this is part 2 of 3, I will put links in the video and in this description to guide you to the other parts. There really is more to this video than just replacing the rear brakes. I had some trouble during this procedure and decided to keep it on video to help you in the event you ran into any of these problems. I’ve also added how I jack up a vehicle from the rear. In short this one is packed with a bunch of stuff that I hope you find helpful in addition to just replacing the rear pads and rotors.

Link to part 3

Link to part 1

Click below and Stay Dirty

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44 thoughts on “Replacing Rear Disc Brakes Part 2 – EricTheCarGuy

  1. The Harbor Freight tool is much nicer than that one, as it's a lower profile design using magnetic attachment for the disk adapters. The socket setup on the one in the video is really bulky, making it unusable.

  2. I was know to turn counterclockwise so did then notice it coming out to far and my boot throne how do get one back on I'm having a hard time. any suggested. on a Dodge Grand care van 2012

  3. Need !! Help!!! That dammm tool is stuck accidently turned counter and now it wont turn clockwise and tool is stuck what do i do ??

  4. Hey Eric  My bleeder screw is really frozen.  Any tips on how to get it out of the caliper without breaking it.  I am renting a tool to screw the piston back in.  The brake pads are worn pretty evenly so I want to try and reuse the caliper.  

  5. Could you explain the theory of operation of this type of caliper? Is the bore of the caliper threaded? I have a 2004 mustang that needs brakes. They seem to have worn out prematurely after my son had them done 8 or 9 months ago. I enjoy your videos. I've learned a lot

  6. You also dont wanna let any fluid back into the lines concidering the fluid might have tiny airpockets/bubbles, i usually keep the pedal depressed while tightening the bleeder-nut…?

  7. I find that the little plastic straw taped to the side of cans of brake cleaner tends to fit really well down inside the neck of the bleeder screw. Hold the bleeder screw and straw together with the thumb and forefinger, and spray. Any gunk in there blows right out. Safety glasses are a must, of course. 🙂

  8. Eric! You have some outstanding videos man…all for free!!! One could not ask for more. Thank you so much for posting these for the occasional DIYer. Wish you all the best…

  9. Eric, great video and presentation, your are a natural. We are Igralub/GWR and make brake service products for all levels of this industry, from OEM to repair shops. See GWRauto . com . I'd like to recommend you replace the spring hardware during brake service, heat does fatigue them. Likewise when you put hdw back in the caliper, be sure lube between them and the metal of the caliper (Coupled Resonance) with our Ceramlub. Please give me a call, I'd like to talk. Gary 1 (800) 266-4497

  10. @sakitlikod1 I have seen instances where that damaged the master cylinder. I also don't do it so that I don't overflow the master causing brake fluid to spill out the top as brake fluid will ruin paint.

  11. were you used that special tool could you use an old brake pad and the tool that compresses it or do you have to have a special tool to turn it?

  12. @EricTheCarGuy Thanks. I kind of figured it out on my own today, although I would really like to see the insides of that rachet mechanism to see how it works.
    PS You absolutely must open the bleeder to be able to push that piston in (unless you have very powerful hands.)

  13. @dappawap The caliper piston does not rotate as it moves outward, it's actually a ratcheting mechanism that keeps the piston close to the pads for applying the parking brake. The only time it needs to be rotated is when you retract the piston however it needs to be held in place by the locating pin on the pad so that it does NOT rotate during normal operation.

  14. @EricTheCarGuy What I don't understand is how the rear caliper of the 2002 Taurus is able to move out by rotating ,even though the pads have edges that are aligned with the notches in the caliper pistons. Since the pads are in one position (except for the in and out movement) I would assume this would prevent the caliper from turning out as long as these edges are seated in the caliper notches.

  15. What I don't understand is how the rear caliper of the 2002 Taurus is able to move out by rotating ,even though the pads have edges that are aligned with the notches in the caliper pistons. Since the pads are in one position (except for the in and out movement) I would assume this would prevent the caliper from turning out as long as these edges are seated in the caliper notches.

  16. @mekoskitecho Damage to the dust boot will not cause it to leak but it will allow contaminants to get further into the caliper which could damage it.

  17. @raikkonen85 The correct lubricants are the ones used in this video. It is VERY important you use these lubricants in the locations shown in the video or you may seize the caliper up especially if you use regular grease or anti-seize on the caliper pins.

  18. ive seen people use different lubes. some people using silcone, some using threadlocking compound, some using copper grease. which are the correct ones to use and on what?

  19. @aaronac8 If you do it this way there is no chance of introducing air into the system. If you force fluid back into the master you run the risk of damaging the seals in the master, I've seen it more than once where a simple brake job turned into a brake job and a master cylinder as a result of that practice. I strongly recommend against forcing fluid back into the master as a result of those experiences.

  20. Why not compress the caliper piston without opening the bleeder valve and have brake fluid return to the master cylinder (as long as it is not topped off)? Therefore there is no chance of adding air to the system.

  21. Do you need brake fluid in your "brake fluid recovery reservoir" before opening the bleeder valve and retracting the piston?

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