Honda No Start? POSSIBLE Main Relay – EricTheCarGuy
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/default.aspx
Here is a GREAT website article about soldering these I strongly suggest you check this out before doing this repair.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html
The first of the “Quick Tips”. I think I’m going to throw one of these in from time to time to keep things lively. So if you have a Honda or Acura that is not starting DUE TO LOSS OF FUEL PRESSURE this is a good place to start. You may be able to repair the main relay normally found under the dash on the drivers side. If this helps great remember me fondly and pass my name along because I just saved you at the very least about $80, at the most $200.
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Ik this vids old but i got a 96 civic lx and its not starting or cranking what do you suggest?
great video, great channel
Meaning when the gas tank is full the gauge is still reading low fuel
Great videos Eric, my fuel gauge on my 2002 Honda odyssey is reading low any suggestions on a fix? Thank you
Thanks a bunch Eric!
Because of this, I could help fix my neighbors 2003 Odyssey. It was stalling after 45min of driving. Van would start back up after a 5 min rest.
the main relay was just like you showed, one solder point was bady corroded, and another was cracked.
Eric the car genius, thank you for saving me from buying a new relay, new fuel pump, and/or following the wires looking for a short. Just a simple cracked solder joint repair. Thank you thank you thank you
Where do I find the mains relay
If you decide to Replace rather than Repair the Main Relay is a Honda OEM Mitsuba the way to go ($$$) or are the less expensive Aftermarkets OK?
Thank you very much
You're awesome man. Thank you for all of your shared knowledge.
So if this is wrong with your car it won’t even crank huh
Man I really hope your soldering skills have improved. I mean if it works then that's good. A little flux and solder wick will make that job a million times easier and reliable. considering this is a nearly 11 y/o video I am pretty much just hoping anyone watching for this issue knows a few pointers.
Thank you Eric… very good info!
For those of us who dont know shut about car electronics….the HARD, DIFFICULT, CUSS YOUR MAMMA part of fixing the problem
is NOT how to fix it…but how to determine what the problem IS. IS. IS. So…after two weeks of Youtube vids on "no spark" in a 1990-93 Honda Accord….by
accident, by myself, discovered if MAIN RELAY is not working…(e.g. engine light will NOT go out after two seconds after turning key) then relay is stuck open and this will
INTERFERE with sending SPARK to the distributor. SO, so SPARK and no FUEL. WHY is this not found anywhere on the net…or perhaps im just too stupid to find it, is beyond me.
Thanks for the vidoes…and please include this "tip" in any future videos on concerning no spark early 90s Honda…Appreciate you!!
What if the cracks are very small and not as noticeable like this one could it still be a problem ?
sir my honda civic 99 model.. crank but wont start… what would be the problems sir
Good afternoon brother Eric, i cant locate my relay on my 1998 honda crv, where is it located? Helo me please.
Get OEM relay. My Civic ,I've had since new. It now has 515,000 miles on it. I've done this repair and have also bought cheap relay that didn't work.
This was exactly the problem with my '04 Ody. Just fixed it myself for no money with only a soldering iron. Thank you!
Excellent video, good money saving tip 👍🤑
Eric get yourself a block of sal ammonic and re tin your iron buddy, it will work like magic i promise.
Hey Eric, I have an interesting thing going on with a 2002 Honda Accord I have with a 4 cylinder. I have been having issues with it stalling/misfiring randomly, no fault codes being generated. I’m a truck technician so I think intermittent fuel pump issue, so I replaced the fuel pump, and a corroded battery ground cable. This helped for a little bit, but still would do it randomly. I checked the spark plugs and distributor cap, all of which was supposed to have been replaced 2 years ago. I had 2 spark plugs that were a little more darker than the other 2, and the distributor cap had a bit of corrosion inside, so I replace all of that, as well as this main relay which indeed was cracked, and was still randomly acting like it would run out of fuel, and still generate no fault code. I watched fuel pressure and alternator output and battery voltage, and fuel pressure never does drop, but the alternator output dropped when it missed/stalled out, I’m guessing maybe because it quit firing spark plugs. The distributor was supposed to have been replaced 2 years ago, but still looks like original distributor. I drove it after doing those spark plugs and wires and distributor cap, and it back fired out the tail pipe twice and stalled/missed twice. I now have a pending p0420 code, and of course no other code to go by. Is there anything else I need to look at? With no codes it’s hard to go about diagnosing intermittent issues like this. It’ll mainly do it after driving for about 10-15minutes after it has warmed up. Maybe distributor/distributor components going bad?
Hey Eric, I have an interesting thing going on with a 2002 Honda Accord I have with a 4 cylinder. I have been having issues with it stalling/misfiring randomly, no fault codes being generated. I’m a truck technician so I think intermittent fuel pump issue, so I replaced the fuel pump, and a corroded battery ground cable. This helped for a little bit, but still would do it randomly. I checked the spark plugs and distributor cap, all of which was supposed to have been replaced 2 years ago. I had 2 spark plugs that were a little more darker than the other 2, and the distributor cap had a bit of corrosion inside, so I replace all of that, as well as this main relay which indeed was cracked, and was still randomly acting like it would run out of fuel, and still generate no fault code. I watched fuel pressure and alternator output and battery voltage, and fuel pressure never does drop, but the alternator output dropped when it missed/stalled out, I’m guessing maybe because it quit firing spark plugs. The distributor was supposed to have been replaced 2 years ago, but still looks like original distributor. I drove it after doing those spark plugs and wires and distributor cap, and it back fired out the tail pipe twice and stalled/missed twice. I now have a pending p0420 code, and of course no other code to go by. Is there anything else I need to look at? With no codes it’s hard to go about diagnosing intermittent issues like this. It’ll mainly do it after driving for about 10-15minutes after it has warmed up. Maybe distributor/distributor components going bad?
What about on an Acura TL (2001).. every once in a blue moon I go to start the car, I dont get the green key light (crank no start). I leave it for a period of time, come back and it starts everytime until 1 month later when it does lol. Note: Ignition switch and immobilizer unit have been replaced. Hope you see this and can point me in the right direction and thank you for always posting vids, it's always appreciated.
Where is it located at ?
Mine has power but will not crank. 01 civic
My car will die out when I turn the wheel to hard to one side or it won't start when I come out so I change the negative ground to starter and cut down positive side got battery tested it's good battery but now car still wont start if I turn on light they make a weried tick sound
Another tip. The second style, which is in my 03 Acura also has two internal contacts, look just like old-style ignition points from yesteryear. One contact is for the fuel injection, the other is for the fuel pump. Upon examination, which is a bit tricky, I could see that the fuel pump contact was arc-corroded. A bit of careful scraping got it clean enough to make contact again. I will replace the entire relay anyway, but it would do in a pinch.
Dude your awesome thank you so much for the tech addvice
clean the tip of your solder gun | then tin the tip of the gun / works a little better
temp has never been the issue, mine is related to humidity, takes anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes ( with the key on) until I hear that 'click' and the engine starts no problem. low humidity starts instantly every time regardless of temp. ??