Bodywork Without Welding

47 thoughts on “Bodywork Without Welding”

1. I consider my bodywork to be farmer quality but really it’s a little better than that! Whatever works for you is the name of the game and good job on at least incorporating metal into the rust repair! My only real rule it put metal back where metal was. I use an 80 amp arc welder with 6013 rods. I’ve done it enough that I don’t burn threw!

2. My regardes to u

3. wait to move to a place where there's not so much snow in the winter

4. Hey! Eric

5. New Zealand would learn alot from you…please come here one day..

6. It will Rust, warte of time and money.

7. useful info, thanks!

8. I don't suggest tin snips for bending reasons. But if you have a way to flatten it back out…

9. well now I know how I'm gonna stick the bonnet hinges back onto my '76 Land Rover…

10. I ended up rebuilding the bottom of the fender on the camry im trying to fix up. I used sheet metal thatvwas the same thickness as the fender, made my bends, shaped and formed it, and then rivited it on and painted it. I got that thing fitting so well that the panel gap from the fender to the door is pretty much perfect.

11. Another product for panel bond is Evercoat Maxim Panel bond adhesive and it just use a regular caulking gun, just make sure to buy a quality caulking gun. You could even use JB WELD for small repairs. 👍

12. Hey Eric, I'd love to see a series of videos of you fixing up a Honda Fit 🙂

13. This gives me confidence and inspiration to take on the rust that's eating my rear QPs on my 95 integra. I have tig welder but I don't trust my ability to weld yet. And the integra is just a daily so i dont care how it comes out. Thanks! I'll be doing this in the next few weeks!

14. HEY ETCG,Thx for the informative videos ..Dont know how often you monitor the comments .Have a l little question.Iam going to be attacking a few projects want to know in which sequence should I do the. LCAs,Tie rids,and axel replacement ..thx for your input… Keep up the good work

15. Also use Fluid Film!

16. Wow 🤩
    This is great !!!!

17. Rockin' channel man, so many useful low cost alternatives and d0-it-yourself techniques to really help keep a car on the road longer. Thanks, one of my best subscriptions for sure.

18. When can we make love Eric?

19. At 1:01 lol…. I like Eric!!!!

20. Interesting concept there. Got me thinking about how to fix some rust damage on my 64. Even if the repair doesn’t work out properly I bet it can be easily removed by applying heat. Most adhesives give up the grip with heat so if that’s the case with this adhesive, which I’m confident it is, then this would be a very forgiving method of repair by a novice. Certainly mistakes involving welding are far more difficult to fix.

21. I had a Pontiac Fiero years ago. I had a passenger rear tire separate on the highway and it messed up the fiberglass body along with my tail light wires. I fixed it by using metal house A/C ducting, pop rivets and some white spray paint.

22. Great tip and video! We get lots of rust up here in Canada. My Element needs some Eric the car guy type of love

23. Now I've got to ask Project Farm whiich holds the patch in place better, seam sealer or JB Weld?

24. When ya get real poor, fix yer car with jiprock!

25. Thanks for that little follow up…hard to get at, non structural hidden places? fine…Overall, don't do it if you don't have to….It's really on the hokey side of the fence…imho…If you can weld, do. thank you …

26. Yeah now days the repair shop industry follows the oem procedures which on most of the parts replaced the factory required to apply adhesive besides the weld spots or rivets to secure more effective the part to the rest of the body and sometimes they dont even required any of them just the adhesive so feel free to do what your logic tells you to do

27. Great idea 💡

28. Good tips and advice, thanks Eric.

29. Hey Eric, really enjoying the work on this car. On a recent rust repair I used por15's epoxy putty for change. Similar to what you did, for cosmetic fixes. It makes it super easy to fill holes. I still used some body filler to smooth it out on top, but it was a nice change of pace for a rust repair. Might be something to look into!

30. well this is an option, the rear quarter panel has been rusting out on my DA9 integra since about forever.
    maybe I'll glue it in on the inside then use body filler to make up the rest of the outside… or the tried and true method of fiberglass. I might go with fiber glass, its pretty easy.

31. or use pl i have used that works great

32. From my limited experience I think there are two important points to doing any rust repair. The first is remove all or as much rust as possible!! I have seen so much underlying rot from someone laying a patch over an improperly prepared patch section. Second use the right product the right way!! Use the proper paint to seal and reduce the rust from spreading, allow the paint to cure and use the right product to hold the materials together and then cover the bare metal with the proper paint or sealer. Otherwise you just hide the rust so it can spread unseen and cause even worse damage. Remember "Rust Never Sleeps"!

33. A good tip I leaned Eric, is clamp a piece of angle iron 5/8 away from where you want to cut and hold your plasma torch against your angle iron and it makes it a whole lot easier and your lines are much smoother

34. Honest question – if it's not structural, does it really matter if it's rusted? (other than for aesthetics?)

35. Longtime Fan and viewer but for your once a week video this was alittle short. Seems to me this should have been a quick tip

36. Technically the sealant used is so strong compared to regular glue/sealant it is considered a "chemical weld".

37. Wire mesh and body filler? Just throwing it out there, hate away!

38. Tack!

39. An age-old Finnish spring tradition: A tar treatment for a wooden boat. Why not for a car too? 😉 "Puuveneen tervaaminen keväällä" — YouTube

40. Thor. is that you?

41. Good video

42. Just got done doing this on one of my vehicles. I’d suggest lord fusor 109b instead of seam sealer. It’s an OEM approved panel bonding. Expensive but worth it. I also used jb weld steelstik to fill bigger gaps. Super strong once it cures.

43. Happy with this info, however a bit disappointed that it is not critical content related to your "projects". Was hoping for something more substantial since you only put videos out on Fridays. But I understand things don't always go as planned and in the environment we are dealing with now, anything is better than nothing. Good video

44. Holy crap..Why in the hell do people apply for this job?? That officer could of died with one cut from that knife.. Way to close for me when he ran up on the officer.

45. Back in high school auto shop days – '78,'79 ,we had no plasma cutters, mig welders or even zip wheels. Everything was cut out with snips and/ or an air chisel. Rust was ground off as best as possible with a 16 grit disc. Maybe you treated the metal with Naval Jelly. Patches were brazed on with an O/A torch or fastened with pop rivets. Bondo over it and undercoat behind. Sometimes we used fiberglass mat and then Bondo, primer, spot putty ,primer and paint. I never used the screening or metal tape though. I get upset sometimes when I see overly equipped (sponsored) TV body shop guys criticizing old work like this. That was pretty much how it was done in a body shop then .Not many pre-made repair panels were available unless they were Jeep panels from JC Whitney (remember them?) and they usually rusted right out again.

46. I got about halfway through the video before I realized the plasma cutter. You've called yourself out. Here's a thumbs up

47. Cool Eric takes

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