sickle bar mower adjustment & mowing under fences

Sickle bar mowers can be a joy to run when adjusted properly. In this video, I go through the adjustment procedure using my Farmall Super C tractor with an International C-21 sickle bar mower as an example. The same principles apply to any sickle bar mower, and to haybines as well. Then we’ll go out to the field and mow under some fences!

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30 thoughts on “sickle bar mower adjustment & mowing under fences

  1. Cut all of our hay back in the late 40s and 50s. It was a trailed wheel driven machine and as long as you kept the cutter bars sharp it worked fine. Always had a spare bar sharpened because our ground was a bit stony.

  2. I mowed with an old IHC sickle bar for years. My Dad made sure he impressed machinery safety on me numerous times. If he ever saw me doing something stupid and risky, I'd get a good cussin' out and dressing down. The sickle bar was one of his safety warnings, right up there with the corn picker(the guy he bought it from had lost a finger trying to unclog it while running. He was lucky he didn't get killed. But enough Sammy Safety for now. Running farm machinery requires 1) thorough knowledge of how an implement works and 2) a healthy dose of common sense ! I enjoyed this video thoroughly, like all the ones I've watched so far. I drove out many a rivet, but unlike you, we never thought of using bolts instead. I also broke the wooden Pitman arm twice over about ten summers. Both times it happened on the third cutting. Having IH fast hitch seems to help immensely–our mower just bolted to the drawbar of our Farmall H. Pete, I'm always impressed with your knowledge, wisdom, and creativity, not to mention your sure-footed common sense. Bless you and yours!

  3. So glad I found this video of yours. Been trying to figure out how to adjust my used mower I bought. Not cutting correctly and ledger plate knife clearence is bad. Didn't know you could just give it a wack. Not to mention that I wasn't sure if the wear plate angle bracket went on (top to help hold the bar down or in back to preserve the sickle bar). Thanks for the tutorial.

  4. Does this have to ride on the ground or can it hover and cut? I have perennials ( strawberry farm) with tons of weeds. I want to just go over the top and lop off the weeds- prob. 24 inches off the ground….think that's possible?

  5. Ws2 tungsten disulfide grease and oil in the oiled bits would keep ALL of this old equipment alive for centuries. Stops rubber seal wear, stops engine wear, gear wear, valve lash wear, saves fuel.
    Is insurance when theres no oil pressure.
    Keeps metal on metal surfaces slippery like ice on ice.
    Ws2
    Its tungsten sulfide disulfide, it is like a sulfur graphite like compound
    It has no friction.
    Its way better than molybdenum because tugnsten is a super element
    And it lasts forever.
    Its a way to keep chains like in rotary chian driven equipment able to last forever.
    It works exceedingly well
    Moly grease might be 5 percent better, ws2 is like 200 percent better it is the real solution to worn out mechanical stuff.

    Its all an industrial farce, not to have the machines last forever. Or at least 2x realistically expected lifespan.

  6. Bud i gota say you have a gift 4 explaining sycel bar mowers …I bought a 1960s Jari (basicly a 36 inch sycel bar on the front of a 3.5 hp brigs and straton it works great for mowing under electric fence

  7. Thanks for suffering in the heat to bring back a memory my many hours spent on an old Ford 4000 mowing canadian thistle with a sycle bar. Was a young kid, dropping the bar felt very hazardous

  8. Yo. This was a super informative video! Thanks for your thorough set up. I came here to figure out what was wrong with my new to me Deering No 7 and I learned a lot.

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