Chevy Truck: Battery Dies Overnight

38 thoughts on “Chevy Truck: Battery Dies Overnight”

1. I’ve watched you for years, and have learned a lot. But you often leave out, knowledge of systems and circuits plays a big part in diagnosing. Even with “fancy scan tools “ , sometimes those aren’t enough, you need knowledge. Just saying lol

2. ❤

3. Excellent as always Eric. Thank you for this channel

4. These trucks are garbage. I've had nothing but problems out of mine from grenaded transmissions to wiring and power draws from everything. Systems not shutting off. When the transmission starts to get to hot frys the electronics and than they stay on. These trucks are not worth it. Do not buy one

5. On my 03 Impala can I run a cable from the alternator to the battery? For some reason my alternator isn't getting a reading that's why I bought a new one but the same thing is happening. I checked all of the connections. Please answer. Thankyou

6. Mr O I’m sure it’s been said before…..but, you sir not only have the skills, but you are an exceptional instructor as well 👍🏻😎 Thank you, I learn something new Every Time!

7. Hahaha, "let's go down on this ol girl"

8. Old fella told me once keep it simple stupid. You certainlyfollow a very good process every time. Enjoy every video

9. My Instrument Panel Cluster was the parasite, I installed a switch inside my truck to cut the power to it while it’s not in use. The alternative was $1000 for a replacement panel, I did the same thing for a defective front door wiring harness to my Master Control Switch. While running, the truck can handle the 1 Amp parasitic draw, but while not in use I simply switch off the power to the parasites ..so battery does not drain…. I get in the truck, turn on the switches.. then start the truck. When exiting vehicle, turn off the truck, turn off the 2 switches and I know my battery will NOT drain. Wiring door harness is not fixable due to a defective molded L-connector, another $300 part saved.

10. luv your commentary!

11. Had an intermittent issue like this & checked everything found nothing. Turned out that the POS battery cable was worn and shorted to the battery tray, but only on a bad day.

12. nice lesson

13. Fewer bells, whistles & options?
    Fewer problems.

14. “If it were me, in this case it is”. 😂

15. White board talk was the clarification. Excellent!

16. Thanks for sharing Brandon.

17. My 2005 cluster is not working at all plus the radio sound is bad. I do have a battery drainer for some hours.

18. This is for comments 608 my cluster I believe is a problem also not a good radio sound

19. Not showing where your placing your leads. You hands are in the way.

20. Please Know that you are absolutely amazing Thanks for your understanding and knowledge always

21. Makes sense…perfect

22. Why would I show 0 draw when checking the draw just on the battery but with the negative unhooked show a draw of about 1ma when checking a fuse. It was for the trailer hook up.
    But the fuse was good.
    Reason why I am trying to check this is about 1 time a month I will try to start my 14 Silverado 4.3 and nothing.
    Have a new battery and had the alternator checked by an actual shop that rebuilds alternators.
    Gauge on panel is around 14 volts under a load and drops around 12 like it’s supposed to from what I understand.
    Any particular fuses that cause this on the 14’s

23. Well done as always Mr. O!

24. Like your show. I have learned alot, thanks.

25. Thanks again Mr 😊
    I laughter when you talk about rusty vehicles, I live in northern Minnesota, most vehicles have lots of rust on them from the state pouring salt on the icy roads. When I was a kid my dad use to put oily rags in the rust holes of our cars so when we would go down gravel roads we could still breath air instead of dust 😂

26. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

27. Good job

28. Great job thank you for sharing 👍😎

29. Yeah you found the problem but did you wave your arms wildly in the air and pop out of the trunk ? No , back to Scotty for me .

30. Man I wish he would of did a link to the video where you can get the wiring schematics

31. If it were me, and in this case it is, I would….

    Hilarious.

32. You are a very good teacher.

33. As you can see from the video, parasitic draw problems take time to diagnose.

    Tips:

    1) If introducing an Ammeter directly at the battery to measure the parasitic draw insert the meter without killing power. If you kill power the vehicle it will take time to go asleep, or the problem may go away never to return until the customer starts using the vehicle again. In some higher end vehicles the battery may be buried in the trunk. I can approach the problem using either an Ammeter in series or a DC clamp meter. Some parasitic draw problems are periodic (may require a Scopemeter and current clamp to clearly see the problem) and may require going key on to key off to trigger, which may overcurrent a series ammeter blowing the ammeter fuse.

    2) If you consult a GM service manual about Parasitic Draw (called Battery Electrical Drain or Parasitic Load) the time for all modules to go to sleep may take up to 2 hours, but most will only take 30 minutes or less The modules will not all sleep at the same time or all draw the same sleep current.

    3) Most service manual troubleshooting procedures require, as a starting point, that the battery be fully charged. To fully charge a dead battery, like the vehicle in the video (most parasitic draw problem vehicles arrive at the shop dead or almost dead), may take up to 12 hours charging stand-alone with a heavy duty charger, and even if you did, would a fully charged battery (if not new) support the time it takes to troubleshoot (these problems may take hours). A better alternative is to put the vehicle on life support using a seperate power supply or module flash sustainer without disconnecting the vehicle battery and use a clamp meter.

    4) With the clamp meter approach if you can get to the fuse box feed you can quickly see if the problem resides in that box. In a truck usually you just need to unlatch the box and clamp on the feed wires, both for checking source and module load current. This process is also used if the battery is in the trunk. Try and rule out fuse boxes one-by-one and then narrow down to the load circuit.

34. Had that on a neon. Fuel pump fuse was blowing on crank Only. Went through the ASD relay. Turns out a NEW starter, fuel pump) the other shop) it was a short on the voltage regulator.

35. This helped thanks Mr. O

36. SUBSTANTIAL
    Thank you👍👌👏
    South Main Auto Repair
    Good Morning 🙏 🌄 have a great day 👍
    Take care 👍
    From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

37. always love the Scotty drops

38. Good stuff!

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