the block froze then cracked, lets fix it,
47 thoughts on “1941 farmall A tractor engine teardown pt1”
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the block froze then cracked, lets fix it,
Comments are closed.
John 3 16
I have used Silicon Bronze ERCuSi-A 3/32 rod with Oxy acetylene That works well, no leaks and holds up.
Thank you Musty1 this is exactly what I needed before I started working on my SuperA
What l first drove on a hay farm in the 60s in Mass. I was like 9 yrs old dad showed me how to start and go. use the A to pull the hay wagon, the Super H pulled the hay bailer and sickle cutter They little A also pulled the l called the fluffer to fluff up the hay so it would dry then the rake to rake it into rows…..
My uncle has a FARMALL that was abandoned by the city of my town. They said he won't get it fixed and it will never run. I told the worker it's a FARMALL made in USA.
I watched and assisted him when he was working on it for a few days then eventually got it running!
They are soo simple high quality products and your rig is a testament that they don't make'em like they used to!
ill take that engine
stick it
Isn't there a process called metal stitching , I'm no expert at all but did see it being once on TV 😆
bad position for welding you should dismantle the motor and put it on it's side
Awesome tractor
Hardest things to do … Welding that cast iron right inside the machine all the contaminants etc I learned my lesson already with this but it's the heart that we have as us as a mechanic
dont understand why you did not repair crack properly with nickel 55 or 99 welding rod.
That is exactly how I would do it and I'd add a little heat.
I have and would have stitched along the crack with drill and thread in stitch bolts/ tap and set then over lap second row. You will never get that weld to work the way you were doing it. . You tube have some great example instructions and methods
No new mustie video today 🥲
Valmet 20
I have had success with nickel rods followed by JB
Looks like the pulley is being held on by hopes and dreams 😆
I realize this video is 5 years old but a place called the motor bookstore has lots of manuals. Some things just aren't on YouTube.
Excellent video
You know what they say musty, if you can't weld good you better be able to grind good
Nickel rod is the best for welding cast iron
Uhhhmm. Nickel rod and a welding blanket would have helped you a lot. Use the welding blanket to cool the block slowly. I am a 30 year welding vet. Good try.
I really want an old tractor like this one.
I’m sure you no best but I probably would have tried brazing it.
It's called cold stitching and it's becoming a lost art my late dad knew how to do it wish I listened when he was trying to tell me what to do 😢
"This is what I would have done" I would have had whomever sold me the motor as new and put water in the block instead of an antifreeze mixture waranty the motor out or I would have put a hurting on them. That motor is not new.
Can i ask why are you trying to weld that place when it is. Cracked all the way through
Would Brazing be better on cast iron?
Who puts straight water in the engine in New England?!?! Pure negligence.
I remember watching the local mechanic. Do the same thing on my father's 1953 Chevy in 1958. Only.he used oxy acetylene and bra?ing rod.
Looks & Sounds The Tractor Owner Got A Low Price Which Was Way To Much For What Was Done ,Mostly A Can Or Two of Red Spray Paint & Calling it A New Motor & Putting Straight Water in it Knowing it Would Freeze Where You Live & Then Saying it's Not His Fault,To Cover Up what he did not Do Just A Thought By How it looks &What happened to it ??? Sure Looks iffy For A New Engine
to remove the crank pully drill a hole in it into the crank from the side of the pully tread a zerk fitting into it and pump grease into it the hydralick pressure will free the pully..not the keyway
Assuming this is cast iron like a head, you can weld it with a nickel rod on low heat stopping every inch or two and tapping it with a hammer to stress relieve it. I have welded cast iron heads this way. Drilled the holes same way to prevent further cracking.
you do know that can be easily repaired by two techniques one is stitching where you drill holes near the crack and press in dowels which is oversize which expands and closes the crack the over is grinding it out and cast welding I have seen both done on worse cracks than that one had a hole the size of your fist he had the piece which flew out when the con rod punched it out and when he had finished welding the tank engine was like new now leaks nothing I was impressed, to say the least, it was an old-world war two tanks a British one ran with a bad big end bearing which gave way on over-revving the engine.nd now it's running like a new Mk VIII, Cromwell (A27M) tank it's now in a museum and does demos outside In England. but as you say you have another block so it an easy engine to rebuild so there's the dilemma what do you do lol.
I would use a breaker bar with a pipe to get more leverage.
Jack up the motor first, it will make everything else so much easier.
It would have cooled off so soon if you let the engine run and got up to normal operating temperature. We know it runs, you drove it in the shop.
So tell us why you didn't just put a few pounds of pepper or a bloke sealer in it, since the weld didn't work. It looks terrible now, what harm could it do?
So you wasted your time and ours trying to weld a cast iron bloke without the right welder or gas or welding metals.
If it runs, why not start it and let it get up to temperature make sure to put some water in it so it doesn't overheat and wipe it good before welding. I wrote this before seeing that you were out of gas for welding.
Stein has 2 inch catalog of old tractor parts
I did a total restoration of Farmall 1940 model A. Took me about 3 months. I am retired so I could work on it every day.
The owner couldn’t open the radiator cap?
The owner had a book and can’t find it?
The wages of laziness…
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Another indication, a crack along the block (along the water jacket, hence, the water discovered initially) indicated this block was trashed from the getgo.
Most of time, I agree with your approach to repairing most anything, yet this timely process of your not.waiting to remove the block from the frame was erroneous. IMO, Sorry!