28 thoughts on “1954 vw bug getting some wrenching done,”
I'm boning up on your air cooled vids, I'll be dragging my late fathers 63 bug out of the woods and seeing how much money I can throw down it. Also have his 67 ghia vert wich has been in the woods for 45 years, the bug only 41 yrs. Thank mustie, you're the best!
Dude, I know this is four year too late, but you should have watched your previous video. You identified this problem already but you decided not to do anything about it. So now you are.
My first car when I was 16 was a 1970 1600 single port bug. The starter when bad and I did'nt have the cash for a new one. I use to park the rear wheels on a 2×4, and when I needed to go somewhere I'd just give the car alittle push and bump start it in second. It would fire right up ! Great memories.
You always consider your audience by setting your camera up perfectly for our viewing. Thanks for that.
It sound bad like a push rod or cylinder head just a bad motor that needs to be broken down for inspection.
Back in the late 50's before they went to negative ground all cars and trucks were positive ground because it would prevent corrosion and rust on the vehicle frame. In the late fifties most if not all auto manufacturers switched to negative ground. So the red to ground on that bug is correct.
Three months after I got my 61 bug the starter quit. Fortunately my moms house was at the top of a hill so I bump started it until I could buy a starter plus a 40 foot high steep driveway at work got me going to go home. Finally had the money to buy a new starter and after the mechanic put it up on the lift he called me over to look at the starter. There were 6 wires from the stranded cable still attached to the starter lug. Removed the remains from the starter and crimped on a new connector and reattached to the starter lug.
Never did use the new 6V starter until I ran across a dead bug with an unhappy driver with a dead starter motor. Told him I'd be back in 40 minutes, you shoulda seen the look on his face when I gave it to him. This happened in July 1919 as he and his wife were heading to Maine on vacation. He couldn't believe I was giving it to him till I told him why I bought it and when I bought it June 23, 1972. His VW was a 1944 thing he found in a farmers haystack in Germany bought it loaded it into a shipping container marked as a 1947 VW. And it cleared customs just fine.
45 minutes later after putting the right rear wheel back on she fired right up.
On the 36 hp engines the lifter is made to the push rod and the lifters are soft and the cam and lifter slowly grind each other down. This engine no doubt has total cam and lifter wear down.
time for a rebuild
Let us hope that this motor has cylinder liners or replaceable cylinders.. Otherwise continuing to run it may further damage the cylinder (No. 2) necessitating a new engine block or cylinder (if replaceable).
Is this the same car that had a leaking #2 cylinder? Was there a video that addressed what was done there? Never worked a 36 hp
Mustie, have you ever worked on a Volkswagen Thing?
love the constructive reuse of the iv pole, lol
I found solder posts from Mcmaster Carr and #4 batt. cable, work great for quick perm. cables. The batt. cable is fine stranded. Love your videos, great job keep up the good work.
Great video… Love the vintage VW stuff
Love the 54 bug. It's got the pop out turn signals do they work?
You already pulled the rockers, and checked the head with your torque wrench in the last video.
Watts=volts x Amperes. The power is measured in Watts.
Zappy bear. You just summed up my thoughts. I understood it, but from a 120 to 240 volt perspective (Being AC of course). I wonder why the Germans went with 6 volts. I suppose they were already geared to make the batteries. I heard the reason for the Positive ground was to keep dust off of the exterior of the vehicle. Urban Myth? I don't know and I am too into Mustie1 videos to google it. 😉
1954 had a split rear window, looks like a 1955.
I don’t understand why folks have the desire to restore these cars. They are death traps in today’s roads, underpowered,noisy, cramped and just horrid. I had a 58 that I spent more time fixing than driving. In the winter I nearly froze to death. I shifted many times driving up and down dips in the highway and when I arrived I wished I’d had something else. Anyways keep on trucking.
What sweet rides I remember in the late 60ies and early 70ies these bodies were uncermoniously removed and throw away for then all made Dune Buggies…!
Tus videos son increibles sobre todo por que tocas el tema de los miticos vochitos. Saludos desde "Oaxaca Mexico"
Mustie, you mentioned using dielectric grease. I assume you connect the parts and then use the grease to seal the connections, correct? My experience is that you don't grease the actual connections since dielectric grease is meant to keep corrosive electric transfer from happening. I have looked for a good material for connecting steel fasteners to aluminum — my truck's ground cable runs from the battery to the aluminum head (factory) and the best solution I have been able to come up with is aluminum or copper anti-seize since you don't want the parts to corrode to each other but you need the ground contact. Any thoughts?
I'm sure the whole motor needs a good going over.While you have it tore down ….check the Farnicastaff brackets for te correct end play…!!
Car hospital with that IV pole
If you got a battery that keeps dying for no apparent reason, check rear seat clearance to battery. On some of them, putting weight or sitting on rear seat compresses seat enough for terminals to make contact with seat springs, not good.
I'm boning up on your air cooled vids, I'll be dragging my late fathers 63 bug out of the woods and seeing how much money I can throw down it. Also have his 67 ghia vert wich has been in the woods for 45 years, the bug only 41 yrs. Thank mustie, you're the best!
Dude, I know this is four year too late, but you should have watched your previous video. You identified this problem already but you decided not to do anything about it. So now you are.
My first car when I was 16 was a 1970 1600 single port bug. The starter when bad and I did'nt have the cash for a new one. I use to park the rear wheels on a 2×4, and when I needed to go somewhere I'd just give the car alittle push and bump start it in second. It would fire right up ! Great memories.
You always consider your audience by setting your camera up perfectly for our viewing. Thanks for that.
It sound bad like a push rod or cylinder head just a bad motor that needs to be broken down for inspection.
Back in the late 50's before they went to negative ground all cars and trucks were positive ground because it would prevent corrosion and rust on the vehicle frame. In the late fifties most if not all auto manufacturers switched to negative ground. So the red to ground on that bug is correct.
Three months after I got my 61 bug the starter quit. Fortunately my moms house was at the top of a hill so I bump started it until I could buy a starter plus a 40 foot high steep driveway at work got me going to go home. Finally had the money to buy a new starter and after the mechanic put it up on the lift he called me over to look at the starter. There were 6 wires from the stranded cable still attached to the starter lug. Removed the remains from the starter and crimped on a new connector and reattached to the starter lug.
Never did use the new 6V starter until I ran across a dead bug with an unhappy driver with a dead starter motor. Told him I'd be back in 40 minutes, you shoulda seen the look on his face when I gave it to him. This happened in July 1919 as he and his wife were heading to Maine on vacation. He couldn't believe I was giving it to him till I told him why I bought it and when I bought it June 23, 1972. His VW was a 1944 thing he found in a farmers haystack in Germany bought it loaded it into a shipping container marked as a 1947 VW. And it cleared customs just fine.
45 minutes later after putting the right rear wheel back on she fired right up.
On the 36 hp engines the lifter is made to the push rod and the lifters are soft and the cam and lifter slowly grind each other down. This engine no doubt has total cam and lifter wear down.
time for a rebuild
Let us hope that this motor has cylinder liners or replaceable cylinders.. Otherwise continuing to run it may further damage the cylinder (No. 2) necessitating a new engine block or cylinder (if replaceable).
Is this the same car that had a leaking #2 cylinder? Was there a video that addressed what was done there? Never worked a 36 hp
Mustie, have you ever worked on a Volkswagen Thing?
love the constructive reuse of the iv pole, lol
I found solder posts from Mcmaster Carr and #4 batt. cable, work great for quick perm. cables. The batt. cable is fine stranded.
Love your videos, great job keep up the good work.
Great video… Love the vintage VW stuff
Love the 54 bug. It's got the pop out turn signals do they work?
You already pulled the rockers, and checked the head with your torque wrench in the last video.
Watts=volts x Amperes. The power is measured in Watts.
Zappy bear. You just summed up my thoughts. I understood it, but from a 120 to 240 volt perspective (Being AC of course).
I wonder why the Germans went with 6 volts. I suppose they were already geared to make the batteries. I heard the reason for the Positive ground was to keep dust off of the exterior of the vehicle. Urban Myth? I don't know and I am too into Mustie1 videos to google it. 😉
1954 had a split rear window, looks like a 1955.
I don’t understand why folks have the desire to restore these cars. They are death traps in today’s roads, underpowered,noisy, cramped and just horrid. I had a 58 that I spent more time fixing than driving. In the winter I nearly froze to death. I shifted many times driving up and down dips in the highway and when I arrived I wished I’d had something else. Anyways keep on trucking.
What sweet rides I remember in the late 60ies and early 70ies these bodies were uncermoniously removed and throw away for then all made Dune Buggies…!
Tus videos son increibles sobre todo por que tocas el tema de los miticos vochitos. Saludos desde "Oaxaca Mexico"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvexnlHf6oc
Video shows Mexican factory making VW Bugs
Mustie, you mentioned using dielectric grease. I assume you connect the parts and then use the grease to seal the connections, correct? My experience is that you don't grease the actual connections since dielectric grease is meant to keep corrosive electric transfer from happening. I have looked for a good material for connecting steel fasteners to aluminum — my truck's ground cable runs from the battery to the aluminum head (factory) and the best solution I have been able to come up with is aluminum or copper anti-seize since you don't want the parts to corrode to each other but you need the ground contact. Any thoughts?
I'm sure the whole motor needs a good going over.While you have it tore down ….check the Farnicastaff brackets for te correct end play…!!
Car hospital with that IV pole
If you got a battery that keeps dying for no apparent reason, check rear seat clearance to battery. On some of them, putting weight or sitting on rear seat compresses seat enough for terminals to make contact with seat springs, not good.