Diesel Rod w/GOOSENECK Pushes Over 100PSI!

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The SEMA Show always has the standard for awesome and unique builds and Luke’s “Wild Torquey” Diesel Rat Rod was absolutely no exception! Skimming through the back lots of SEMA, we finally ran into Luke in person and HAD to stop and talk. Luke is a young young self taught fabricator who is literally overflowing with creativity. We’re looking forward to Luke’s next build!
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43 thoughts on “Diesel Rod w/GOOSENECK Pushes Over 100PSI!

  1. Nous en France on a une nouvelle mode ça s'appelle slipper c'est une ancienne voiture avec toute la technologie nouvelle et beaucoup de chevaux du style une e30 bmw avec le moteur d un M5 e90 chassis renforcer et en la voyant tu te dit oui super belles tu croie que c est une voiture pépère pour défiler a des rassemblement et bhen oui et non ce sont des bombes mécanique cacher faites en autant voir ci vous y arriver

  2. Houaaa le rat rod la folies ca jamais tu pourrais rouler en France exemple les pare-buffle sont interdits parce qu'il pourrait blessé quelqu'un un piéton exemple imagine ma connerie en vérité ils ont plutôt peur que quelqu'un s'amuse à faire un braquage avec ça se servir de ses véhicules pour faire un braquage en rentrant dans la banque en force c'est comme excuse ils les ont interdit disant que ça pouvait blesser un piéton

  3. Such a cool build. The 5th wheel makes it so much more interesting and unique than your typical rat rod plus the sweet chevy in the back. Bagged, diesel pushing 100psi. So badass. Hope to do a similar project with an old COE

  4. It's always interesting to see how much budget cars like those cost to build, my brothers a whole lot more mechanically inclined than myself and built a 1988 Ford Mustang 460FBB Stroked to a 532ci made 1100hp on a 300shot and cost 5000 for the entire build using junkyard parts, people think a build that like would cost in upwards of 20000 but when you're garage built or in his case (apartment complex parking lot built) costs seem ridiculously low

  5. couple questions about that hitch system… first is how would you uncouple without either jacking the trailer way up or the removing the hitch assembly from the tube? The gooseneck won't clear the roof line without doing something weird or time consuming.
    2nd question is how far forward of the rear axle did the ball get placed? I know there's a recommended range that keeps the weight balanced between the front and rear axles, to my eye (admittedly a poor judge) it looks like it'e either right above or even slightly behind the axle.

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