Crank No Start! Accidentally Fixed! Can’t find the Problem! Ford 5.0

40 thoughts on “Crank No Start! Accidentally Fixed! Can’t find the Problem! Ford 5.0”

1. What's the point of "debadging"? Who cares. Are you going to grind of the Chevy logo on your truck? How about the Duramax badge on your engine? I know what tools they are by looking at them.

2. That era is VERY prone to cross firing between ignition wires, Ford specs a specific way to route them. That's what they were trying to stop with the spiral wrap which is a joke. I had it on mine when I got it, replaced the stock wires routed per Ford spec and still did it. Switched to a set of Ford performance 8mm wires, I cut and crimped them to length and no more issues. You may have moved the wire that was cross firing….

   Love my 95 F150 4×4 with the 351, has the factory posi rear axle with the tow package. 30 years old, still clean and running strong in Pa. Fluid film it every year after a good pressure washing underneath.

3. Definitely poor grounding symptoms.

4. I cringe whenever Ray starts doing electrical stuff. He really needs to learn some basic DC electronics. He should understand how to use a multi-meter and how ohms law works.

5. Positive and negative battery posts are different sizes. Replacement cable ends therefore come in two sizes. You used a negative clamp on the positive post – that's why it didn't fit.
   You CANNOT test resistance with current flowing through the wires. Please learn how to use your meter.

6. I'm disappointed in you at the moment. Why because you have right tool to open up the battery terminal. Also where the cleaning you have been doing in the past.😢

7. You absolutely van NOT NOT NOT measure resistance in any circuit carrying current.
   How do you think a resistance meter works ?

8. How does one charge for doing something that allowed a fix but don’t,know what it was that fixed it? Just an hourly charge to pay for your time? If it comes back, is there a warranty on the thing you can’t identify? If they ask what did you do, do you just raise your shoulders and say “I applied my hands to it and screamed out HEAL”? Makes for an interesting video for sure. Love your stuff. Most things that I fix are like this…..I have no clue what I did.

9. I would just like to point out that you got a negative resistance value when you measured from the battery to the alternator. Negative resistance is impossible so that is a sign that the measurement is being done wrong. Probably the best way to measure resistance for what you were doing would be to disconnect one end of the wire you are testing. This isn't necessary if you are just checking continuity, but you won't always get a good measurement on a live or complete circuit.

10. Feels like a bad ground issue. The battery ground checked fine but there could be an engine ground as well. Dirty grounds cause issues like this.

11. Pickup coil

12. I would disconnect that tach I actually had one shorting out internally causing a chevy to cut out when ever it felt like. I would also fix the ground wires. If you have a ground issue some of the components that are mounted to the fire wall and fenders may be the only source of ground that some stuff is getting its ground from causing a ground loop start with engine ground to fire wall then ground to battery then fender.

13. The best way to rectify this issue is get rid of that ignition system and install the tried and true points & condenser. Probably need a ballast resistor to but that would fix it.

14. Very funny Ray! You should have called an 800 psychic line and asked about the resistance on those wires. Would have been more hilarious and just as accurate as trying to use a DVM to measure resistance on an energized automotive charging circuit cable. Good comedic effort. I give a 6.3 out of 10 to Ray on this one, for creativity in punking the average viewer.

15. 6:00 they don't have to be copper, you could check if they're magnetic or not! There are a lot of wires made from chinesium out there that look like copper but they're just made to look like it, with way more resistance than a real copper cable would have.

16. Ray, when you disconnected the minus connector hanging, you should have replaced the positive one first. Love your videos, always. Never check for resistance knowing there's current flowing through the wire, you'll get false readings. Disconnect the battery when doing ohm tests.

17. I'd say your above normal functioning human being. Lol Love the videos

18. Ok, so why the debadging Ray

19. Can you please for the love of all do a video on why LT tires are not for anything other than 250s or above????? And why idiots put lts on tundras, tacomas, rangers, etc????? And how it messes up transmissions and etc.

    Its a trend now and its wrong and stupid.

    Also about custom rims and how they don't balance correctly or repaired rims??? And show how weights go on and the difference between bang on and stickys??? And the difference between dually rims???

20. Could be ignition switch

21. Neutral safty start switch may be shorting and could be bad wiring to it or distributer could be playing up

22. Bet that aftermarket tach has a short!!! Take it out of the loop. Then recheck

23. Hey Ray your not going to get accurate resistance measurements across a live wire.

24. And he is killing any future sponsorship he may want down the road

25. Never seen someone waste so much chemicals…..

26. Ur also shocked the system…take all terminals off and connect them with out being connected to the battery

27. Also it goes thru the frame/door ….very bad things happen that way

28. so why are you debranding the tools?

29. ford in those years had issues with that icm even after they moved them off the distributor. I had an old 4.9 inline 6 that had it on the distributor i used to keep 2 spares in the truck at all times as they were so failure prone i got good at swapping them out. I think they had a big class action lawsuit over it which is why they came up with the retrofit to move it to the fender

30. Try also to advance timing then adjust idle down a little

31. Oh that idle drop out could be the cat burned out

32. I once used a battery spray before I reconnected the wires well that protect cleaner caused a no start condition so adding those protection sprays and greases are a bad idea.

33. 11:38 you don't have a Snap-on Battery Terminal Speculum?!

34. The electronics on these were overly complicated. Im all for keeping things OEM but if I owned one of these itd be getting some sort of aftermarket efi.

35. I would of started with the relays. In 1993- 1997 if i remember right those was the years was the worse onnthe starter relay my friend had replaced his starters every 2 or 3 months i was replacing my frod explorer starter every 6 to 8 months . Starters should not go out like that i had replaced the battery cables + and – added more grounds it started to act up i made mental noes of the engine temp and out side temp it was popping the relay or making it harder to switch afternit got over heated. My friend had a ford f250 1996 he was replacing his starter every 2 or 3 months i bought a relay tester off of ebay when there is mo start or crank i fo grab my relay tester a bad relay could cause alot of tjose trouble

36. this is an idle air control valve or air getting sucked in due to a vacuum or air leak throwing off the fuel trims. clean the IAC and
    smoke test the airbox tubing to the throttle body, also use a scanner and look at the fuel trims and misfire counts

37. I bought a 95 f150 set the timing correctly from the previous owner who tried to fix it and similar situation get it running come back next day won't run it will start and run on brake fluid Then a week later you come back to start diagnosing it will start and run ?????????????? fuel rail good fps good when it won't run fuel pump won't run direct jump it still no run change computer no difference Some day I'll figure it out !

38. Tried going ooold skool and tapping distributor base? Definitely sounds like an ignition hiccup to me. Just another idea lol

39. While you're at it. Why don't you just de-badge those pretty blue tool boxes. Grind the plate right off. I don't see the funny or fun in screwing up tools. You pay good money for.

    You realize your circuit is live right. I'm not saying you can't do it this way. But it's best not to… The last time I had an old Ford do that. It was the distributor. I know it's got a new one in it. Did he replace the distributor because of the problem? Or did he replace a lot of other things after he replaced the distributor? Boy that became a tongue twister😂

40. @22:47 Shouldn't you have replaced that cable with the 100+ ohm resistance?

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