Here’s the ‘short version’ of the Ford 8.8 differential assembly and set up. If you just want the essentials
Link to (Part 1): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fARhE7v5Bg
Link to (Part 2): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npUBF9Wj1Iw
Link to (Final Assembly): Link Posted when video becomes available
Link to previous video in series: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il8nDlCepyc
Differential Basics video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Y6vOwiCe1U
This is a complete overview of how to assembly and set up a Ford 8.8 differential. It shows how to assemble the differential, set backlash, and set up the gear tooth pattern.
The best place for answers to your automotive questions: http://www.ericthecarguy.com
Camera: Brian Kast
Thanks for watching!
Discussion about this video: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/18-The-EricTheCarGuy-Video-Forum/64758-ford-8-8-assembly-set-up-short-version
Special thanks to
Kings Ford: http://kingsfordinc.com
Ford Performance techline: https://performanceparts.ford.com/contact-us/
Additional info and links
Ford 8.8 PDF: https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-4209-8.pdf
Gear tooth pattern guide: https://www.ringpinion.com/Content/Book/Reading-and-Adjusting-Ring-and-Pinion-Tooth-Patterns.pdf
Dana Differential assembly guide: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5717.PDF
Ford differential identification guide: http://www.fordification.com/tech/rearends_ford09.htm
Article on the 8.8: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/116-ford-8-8-rear-end/
Parts
My differential: https://lmr.com/item/M4204F318C/Mustang-88-31-Spline-Traction-Lok-Differential-With-Carbon-Fiber-Clutch-Disks
My gear set: https://lmr.com/item/LRS-4209FRA-K/Mustang-88-355-Rear-Gear-Kit
My differential cover: https://lmr.com/item/M4033G2/Ford-Mustang-FRPP-Rear-Differential-Girdle
My 5 lug conversion kit: https://lmr.com/item/SVE-2300DK-B/1993-Mustang-Black-SVE-5-Lug-Conversion-Kit-31-Spline
Pinion head bearings: https://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/Search_Results.aspx?Requery=True&SortBy=Yukon&SearchType=Part&SearchPhrase=m802048
Pinion head bearing races: https://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/Search_Results.aspx?Requery=True&SortBy=Yukon&SearchType=Part&SearchPhrase=m802011
Pinion flange sleeve Federated 99181: https://www.amazon.com/SKF-99181-Speedi-Sleeves/dp/B000EPTAPW
Ultra black RTV: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U
Gear Paint: https://www.amazon.com/Ratech-500-Marking-Compound/dp/B001P2D27U
Royal Purple gear oil: https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-11687-Performance-Synthetic/dp/B005SEKFBC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1466942441&sr=1-1&keywords=royal+purple+80w+90
Tools
Differential Shim Installer: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-56077?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-yukon-gear-axle&gclid=CJ6Dj-DSxc0CFQgaaQodKbgFjA
Pinion Flange Holder: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all68372?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-allstar-performance&gclid=CPjuvYjTxc0CFQYuaQodvNEKQg
Bushing Driver Kit: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/astro-pneumatic-7824-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set#oid=1002_1
Dial Indicator: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/central-tools-3d102-dial-indicator-set-with-on-off-magnetic-base#oid=1002_1
Digital caliper: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/general-tools-1478-8-digital-fractional-caliper#oid=1002_1
Inch Pound Torque Wrench: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/precision-instruments-d2f150hm-torque-wrench-dial-with-memory-needle-3-8-dr-150-in-lb#oid=1002_1
Brass drift: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/sk-hand-tools-6323-3-piece-brass-drift-punch-set#oid=1002_1
Zep Sprayer: http://zepequipment.com/products/category/sprayers#!prettyPhoto
**Answers to your automotive questions found here: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq
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Stay Dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
13:20 if u ever do this make sure the other bar is not against a rib! use your hip or thigh like in video
👍😁😎
This is like watching a wreck on the highway
LOLOL, I love at 21:10 where it said "Like, 3 hours later". I am just starting to set backlash and it is a PITA for sure! These shims suck.
What did you use to make the set up bearing? A dremel?
"Old Koyo race" knocked out at 10:37? but the set up bearing you made during disassembly should have been Koyo too if it was original, right? Was the race you knocked out actually a replacement Timken race and thus the difference? I know this is 4 years old, but super relevant to me right now.
Thank you Eric! Great video for us non professional do it yourself types!
I found you have to torque the carrier to perform a test pattern. Otherwise when you do finally torque the carrier, the extra tightness will force the ring gear into the pinion tighter, and you wind up with less backlash, than when you pre- final assembly tested it.
It seems to me that the only way to really learn is to experience what causes the problems. I’m wondering if pinion preload changes from when you’re setting it up initially and then your final setup by 5 or so in/lbs will that throw everything off ? When you change pinion shims the difference is so small can preload pull or push the pinion at all ?
This was really helpful, thanks for making this video.
Rears can be a real pain in the rear for sure. Thanks for the tips and pointers. I’m sure you saved me countless hours especially with the koyo timken bearing differences. You got a thumbs up from me for life. 👍🏻 Some videos will drive you crazy.
Can I take up excessive backlash by just adding shims to the left carrier bearing WITHOUT taking apart the pinion? Taking it down to install axle saver wheel bearings/seals. Doing this while diff. is in vehicle at 252k miles. It presently is quiet but has lot's of backlash. Will this make it howl?
can i get by without the differential shim install Driver ?
Damn. Diffs are technical
amazing.
Awesome, good stuff Eric. Thanks
THANK YOU!!!!!
Thanks for both vids.
Having seen both the short and the long versions, I like the longer videos more. After watching them this one just seems a bit rushed in comparison. I do think that the long version is just as important to watch as this one specifically because of how difficult it was to get everything set up properly. We've all been in that situation where nothing seems to go right on what we're working on matter what we do, getting frustrated, and wanting to just quit. It's actually a bit refreshing and encouraging to know that it still happens to the best of us
Why couldn't you use the older bearing hollowed out for set up? Was it because it wasn't a Timken and the tolerances would be off?
Really nice one, Eric. You gave me the last bit of confidence that made me realize I did something right on my Mercedes rear differential. However, the carrier bearings (ring gear carrier) has also tapered bearings that needs to have certain amount of preload. Did you encounter any issues on that? I know you used the same sum of shim thicknesses that seems to take care of the problem but what if you didn't have the specs?
super great
I love these "cliff note" versions of videos as they make people feel incompetent when it takes them nearly a week to successfully do something they saw took like 30 minutes. 🙂 "Just the facts" vids are helpful and time saving though.
working on mopar 8 3/4 from 1969 sure grip works great but I'm switching my breaks to disks and new end seals + bearings shoud i rebuild all if it or just the ends missing some tool and not a big budget to do all of it rite my self ?