Posted in Car Mod

2JZ BRZ Pt 5 – DIY Push To Start

   May 4, 2021  42 Comments on 2JZ BRZ Pt 5 – DIY Push To Start

In this episode I wire up everything we need to operate the 2JZ motor and accessories inside the BRZ. Big thanks to Leatherman for sponsoring this episode, share your own tool tale here! http://www.leatherman.com/bisforbuild

Check out www.instagram.com/kyle_chancey/ for some sick 2JZ swapped FRS action.

If you’re doing your own 2JZ Swap the best wiring info can be found here: http://bit.ly/2qwpQRv

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Music:
06:56 – Malik Bash – Ghosts
36:26 – Fareoh – Cloud Ten

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42 thoughts on “2JZ BRZ Pt 5 – DIY Push To Start”

  5. I know this video is old now but was that crumpled brz in the front yard button or key start because I would have put that colum in and wired the starter wire to that key ignition instead of the traction control just so it feels more normal all the key start would do is turn it over the 2jz

  10. I was thinking of doing a BMW S85 V10 swap into my e46 M3. I also thought about getting rid of the rear seats and mid engine(ing) it. That is so i have more room for a super charger and 2 (or 4) turbo chargers.

  11. I know theres many more parts of this build, and you probably already spoke about it, but you should get a 2jz airconditioning set and power steering pump.

  17. I have to ask, why are you not using a 58 tooth wheel to provide an RPM signal to the BRZ, fixing both the tach and the start button will work as its supposed to, using the original wire to the Subaru starter?

  20. You can put modern batteries on the ground just fine -_- god that story is from the time when batteries were made out of WOOD.

  21. yo Chris…just a quick SAFETY/FIRE note: make sure you fuse all 12v+ terminations as close to the batt as possible! also…ground strap the batt to the body/chassis…then you can ground your components to the body rather than running ground wired directly to batt. Good luck!

  23. This episode should be titled 'F is for forgotten fuses'

    Also, you likely could have reused some of the existing fuse box. Ie found the old ecu wire off the bottom of fuse box.

    it also would have better to mount the ecu first and run the the wire looms to it. you are totally going to have to cut down one side and recrimp

  24. Never heard of a bloody soldering iron!!! please don't EVER touch car wiring again!!! that's coming from a auto sparkie! DISASTER!!!!

  25. this one time my dick got stuck in a toaster but luckily i had my leatherman tool nearby so i just simply use the siccor part of the pliers to cut my penis off thanks leatherman

  35. My favorite leatherman is actually the wingman, although I changed the main blade to an SV30 blade, and I 'heat treated' the covers so it looks all purple and yellow heat look kinda thing. I have a charge TTi but honestly the wingman is just so good. Also I keep a skeletool in my backpack for work.

  36. the battery on the floor thing is a myth batteries discharge over time at the same rate no matter what material they sit on. the plastic outside cover is obviously an insulator as plastics do not conduct electricity and also I got my brother in law a 50 dollar wal mart battery which he used in his truck to go mudding and lets just say the battery only has half the top and sides left and it STILL STARTS THAT TRUCK I've never been so impressed by a battery lol but we keep spare batteries laying around on the shop floor it doesn't make a difference

  41. i got a question for you why on earth are you not   getting a diagram from the car and the engine looms and joining the engine loom cables into where the original cars loom had the corresponding cables? the way you are doing this is bloody crazy that entire rely case you have there has all the relays you need for that strip the harness right back to where the cars factory ecu is and build a hybrid of the 2 harnesses. the cars own one has all the push start wires that you wish to have as well as the cables for the abs cooling and fuel pump and so on.then only things you need to do is cut the engine input and outputs from the old ecu and splice in the new ecu and loom so much easier safer and quicker.  I work as an auto electrician ive done many custom motor swaps and as interesting as some of your builds are I believe you are really going about this one the wrong way and your getting a tad over your head with out enough information at this point.I strongly suggest spending some time on the internet getting some full diagrams for both there is reasons that all those + cables you have there are not one big thick cable.  that's because part of them are to do with immobilizer system and also i be sure one of them is either a clutch signal or a break signal as well for starting (at a guess) witch after having 3 sets of wheels stolen I'm sure you rather keep a working immobilizer  too the way you are going to do this car anyone that sees this video and had half an idea about cars could be away with your car in minuets I strongly suggest you take my advice
    I look forward to seeing this finished but the right way as at the moment I'm cringing  and your signal for the engine running is rpm that comes from the alternator you can use that signal directly from the pole on the alternator to where the car originally had that signal and your rpm gauge will work too just no guarantee how accurate it will be

  42. how did he give power to the existing body loom. in other words how did he get the ignition switch in the car and the Fuze box to have power

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