Building 240z/M5 Frame Rails – Was That Too Easy?

In todays episode i spend quite a bit of time measuring, and then we finally cut and weld up our frame rails for the 240z to match up with the M5 suspension.

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Music:
Never Return (Instrumental Version) – Sebastian Forslund
Atmospherica – Squiid
Curiosity Cabinet 2 – Håkan Eriksson
Fareoh – Cloud Ten

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Author: avnblogfeed

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32 thoughts on “Building 240z/M5 Frame Rails – Was That Too Easy?

  1. I have confirmed it was indeed too easy lol, i dont want the frame rails going through the middle of the car :p ill talk about this in tomorrows episode and the plan moving forward.. Good news is its really no problem or work lost moving forward.

  2. I have a question. Why when you are installing M5 power into a 240Z wouldn't you go the extra "security-mile" to get a properly designed and made frame? I hope you didn't have any issues since.

  3. What are the drink driving laws in Oregon like?

    Can’t even have one beer here and then get back behind the wheel.

    Must be a lot more relaxed in Oregon👍

  4. I think I would have put a str8 chalk line on the floor and put the rails on the floor on their side and tacked them like that so you know they are plumb and level. I know you used a level but a bubble level is not very accurate. You should buy a digital degree gauge. And a digital angle gauge. You can get things withing a hundreth of a degree level. And a bubble level you could easily be off by 2 degrees or more.

  5. You ruined the frame. No way you get away with it without having to weld back the pieces you cut or buying new ones. Plus you weld them at the wrong place

  6. Looking forward to seeing how you pull this off. Have built a few of these cars, with the most recent being a coyote motor. The V10 is going to run into same problem as the mustang motor. It is so wide that even with a full tubed front end, it was too close to the coilovers. We ended up using a different motor, but did use the full mustang rear suspension, and front coilovers/brakes/hub assembly. Looking at your original idea I would suggest you build a tube frame that fits the 240 and adapt the m5 parts to fit that frame. Your idea of shortening the wheelbase is going to make a death trap. The Z has a short wheelbase and by moving it back 4 inches, you are going to make the rear end want to swing around. You can offset this some by going wider maybe. Personally I would tube the front, mount the motor, then modify the suspension to fit in the stock 240 location (or just upgrade the stock suspension on the Z since it actually handles very well).

  7. 12:30 here’s a thought, though it’s likely too late now, but if you had placed the straight piece along side the curved piece, you could have marked a notch that would have allowed for full contact because the slop would have overlapped on top of the straight section.

  8. Does anyone else find it a little disturbing that there’s a random severed manikin head just casually sitting on the shelf over in the corner?

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