I’m sure you may be able to save the water pump. The rest, not so much.
What MR2 was he driving at 8mins?
sure looks like incorrect ring end gap for a forced induction application.. but idk
Turbo?
I had an injector clog and do something simular to that.. check that injector!
those rods are beefy!!!
That multimeter you have there tests continuity. turn it back three places to that little speaker looking thing. it might not beep, but if the meter reads near 0 you're good. @11:59
Hey Brent your the shit ! I have a question someone is selling a used hondata s 300 and claims hondatas can switch vin numbers without needing to pay thick to a dealer for reflash …Is this correct can i buy a used s300 and not nave to take it to hndata dealer for refash ?
what do these guys do for a living? look young!!
Lol, that multimater has a continuity setting xD
if you want a beep with checking resistance you have to put it on diode i can see it on you multi meter
That'll buff right out.
ohms was the term you were looking for
In this scenario we strip the motor SEND IT TO A MACHINE SHOP, tell them how much power we are looking for THEY 0 EVERYTHING OUT AND PRESSURE TEST THINGS. Hone out and we build up and are done, you should have a 6 PASS OIL COOLER
You have a continuity tester on that meter it’s the red setting about 5 o’ clock.
You boiz need some schooling
So you are still running the FRM cylinder walls? Interesting!
now thats a lot of damage
On shity multimeter set on diode check and then will beep
That's a for sure way to tell. when your multimeter reads zero resistance, it is a complete circuit (one wire) or a dead short to ground
Guessing it was something that got sucked into your turbo since you dont believe in filters lol
At least it didn't get pitted bro, so pitted
word of the day "FUCKED"
The skirtless piston skirts these days
Harbor freight should sponsor y’all.
Plastiguage is for stock stuff…step it up and get micromiters to get accurate measurement…save by spending👍
Don't use that rod😂
How many lbs do you run what's the compression ratio
FYI, that meter does do continuity. You just didn't have it hooked up right wire wise.
I dont trust wire crimps worth spit… learn to solder, then seal it correctly and you dont ever have to worry about your wiring pulling apart, ever.
You have all these turbo cars and impact drivers, engine stand etc. But you dont have a digital multimeter!!! Lol priorities
Fuck it. Weight reduction bro.
So what when a fuel injector fails the piston blows?
solder and shrink wrap dude
11:49 When you set your multimeter to that diode sign, I'm pretty sure i will beep…. 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Sorry that happened to ya but it made a cool video.
Crimp > solder.
Coolant kill piston
This is why you don't solder in engine bays, heat makes it weak.
Heyyy there, baby wyatt 😂
Could you not just sleeve that block?
What kind of pistons are those
I’m sure you may be able to save the water pump. The rest, not so much.
What MR2 was he driving at 8mins?
sure looks like incorrect ring end gap for a forced induction application.. but idk
Turbo?
I had an injector clog and do something simular to that.. check that injector!
those rods are beefy!!!
That multimeter you have there tests continuity. turn it back three places to that little speaker looking thing. it might not beep, but if the meter reads near 0 you're good. @11:59
Hey Brent your the shit ! I have a question someone is selling a used hondata s 300 and claims hondatas can switch vin numbers without needing to pay thick to a dealer for reflash …Is this correct can i buy a used s300 and not nave to take it to hndata dealer for refash ?
what do these guys do for a living? look young!!
Lol, that multimater has a continuity setting xD
if you want a beep with checking resistance you have to put it on diode i can see it on you multi meter
That'll buff right out.
ohms was the term you were looking for
In this scenario we strip the motor SEND IT TO A MACHINE SHOP, tell them how much power we are looking for THEY 0 EVERYTHING OUT AND PRESSURE TEST THINGS. Hone out and we build up and are done, you should have a 6 PASS OIL COOLER
You have a continuity tester on that meter it’s the red setting about 5 o’ clock.
You boiz need some schooling
So you are still running the FRM cylinder walls? Interesting!
now thats a lot of damage
On shity multimeter set on diode check and then will beep
That's a for sure way to tell. when your multimeter reads zero resistance, it is a complete circuit (one wire) or a dead short to ground
Guessing it was something that got sucked into your turbo since you dont believe in filters lol
At least it didn't get pitted bro, so pitted
word of the day "FUCKED"
The skirtless piston skirts these days
Harbor freight should sponsor y’all.
Plastiguage is for stock stuff…step it up and get micromiters to get accurate measurement…save by spending👍
Don't use that rod😂
How many lbs do you run what's the compression ratio
FYI, that meter does do continuity. You just didn't have it hooked up right wire wise.
I dont trust wire crimps worth spit… learn to solder, then seal it correctly and you dont ever have to worry about your wiring pulling apart, ever.
You have all these turbo cars and impact drivers, engine stand etc. But you dont have a digital multimeter!!! Lol priorities
Fuck it. Weight reduction bro.
So what when a fuel injector fails the piston blows?
solder and shrink wrap dude
11:49 When you set your multimeter to that diode sign, I'm pretty sure i will beep…. 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Sorry that happened to ya but it made a cool video.
Crimp > solder.
Coolant kill piston
This is why you don't solder in engine bays, heat makes it weak.
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/experiments/chpt-2/ohmmeter-usage/
I know this is a long time ago. But I wouldn't have reused that rod. With all the aluminum that was on it it would be way out of balance.
Strip the wires by one inch on each side and do a long twist, solder and then heat shrink, it's more reliable.
that sucks dude.