Getting the 240Z Frame Rails Ready for the Roll Cage

In todays episode were welding up the drop down sections of the frame rails.

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Fareoh – Cloud Ten


Author: avnblogfeed


33 thoughts on “Getting the 240Z Frame Rails Ready for the Roll Cage

  1. I know I'm almost a year behind on this build, but if you do vertical welds again in the future try running them from top to bottom. That should help you minimize the 'goobering' until you really learn how to dial in your welder perfectly.

  2. You'll be fine with 18s. Heck, you're doing this much work to the car, what's wrong with doing some CF or FG work to have the body flush to the wheels properly?

    Aside from that, if you downsize the brakes, you run the risk of pissing off the computers that assist and control them. They're calibrated for bigger hardware, so downsizing the hardware may turn up undesirable (and unsafe) results.

    Also keep in mind, you've a 500+hp V10 in a sub 3.5k lb car, that thing is going to be a rocket! You're going to need that big stopping power when you want to slow down from 140+ in a hurry and safety.
    There's a reason why supercars use massive brakes and it's not just for aesthetic reasons. The cars may be lite but you can't ignore physics and it's unchallenged laws in your 3k lb rocket while traveling well into the realm of 140-180mph. You'd overwhelm smaller brakes in a hurry.

    Bottomline, I'd say just keep them, plus, maintenance parts shopping will be easier instead of trying to remember all the things you Frankensteined together to make something else. That whole suspension is from that M5, keep it simple especially when this version of simple has some serious performance application 🙂

  3. I think that the 240z logo would make a really good window sticker. If you make them into window stickers I would definitely get one for my 240z

  4. Just a quick tip on the welding… Don't do side welds first that will pull it either left or right, but instead do the welds that are in line with the top rail.Once you have those done the chance of it kicking left or right is greatly reduced.

  5. Sorry if I missed it, but where are you going to put a seat? Looks like you raised the floor significantly and put a giant frame rail right in the middle of where a seat should be. Stock seats in a stock setup give just enough head clearance and they sit lower.

  6. Hey Chris do yourself a favour and change the 2 pcv valves ( non return valves ) while engine is out ! on s85 are 4 valves in total, 2 at the rear end of the engine each side and 2 are sitting right above the gearbox top left side of the engine ! follow the 2 identical hoses that are coming out right on the back on the manifold which are going to words the gearbox, anyway the 2 can only be changed while gearbox or engine is out ! they are a commune fault for increasing oil consumption you can get 4 valves for 70 dollars. I changed mine and oil consumption was reduce to minimum after.
    i highly recommend you change those, good luck with

  7. Too funny puts a massive V10 in a car that isn’t a car anymore. Then remove the big brakes ! How are you going to stop the car and why would you also put smaller brakes on the front you’ll make the braking bias’s work all wrong because you still have the bigger brakes at the rear . Then he buys another car the cut up what a waste and a butcher you haven’t a clue . Just cutting up good cars that someone with some real experience or real enthusiast can fix up properly then drive around.

  8. If you change the brake setup, it will need to be recoded to the ABS module, but I'm not sure if the E60 5 series brake setup will be an option code that can work. It may and then you would be good. This will definitely require programming for the abs to play nice.

  9. The BMWs rotors can only hold specific 18 inch bmw wheels, but for aftermarket you have to go 19s or bigger, nothing else will clear the calipers unless it has a wide backspacing

    You are correct about the knuckel being the same for all e60s yoy can run 535 or 530 rotors and calipers but not sure if youd need any adapters, to do it the other way. (from 535 or 530 to m5) its just a direct bolt on, you can find alot of forums discussing this. The earlier models did sell with smaller brakes than later models so 2006-2008 is your year range for the smallest brakes possible, this is golden for you because the early models ran 16s and 17s factory

    BUT the rear brakes on most non M e60s use a drum in disk E-brake which is totally different to the M5, In order to downsize the rears youll have to change the hubs as well

    Credibility: i have an e60 m5 and had a e60 535xi

  10. e60/e61 535d and 550i brakes barely fit 17" wheels, but still have hecka lot of braking power. Disc sizes are: 348mm/36mm front and 345mm/24mm rear.

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