1996 RL Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement -EricTheCarGuy

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I get lots of requests to just do straight up repair videos like this all the time and I’m always happy when I can oblige. This wheel bearing replacement is fairly typical for a FWD vehicle so much of what you see here can be applied to other FWD vehicles. There are variations in the way the bearing attaches to the hub however the principals are pretty much the same. You should not need a press to do this, just some basic hand tools and sockets will do, air tools make it easier but you don’t need them to get this done. As you can see in the video I ran into trouble but the method I employed can be used if you find yourself in a similar situation.

Rotor Screw video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxQk7Pz_vfc

Stay dirty


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Author: Rafael


47 thoughts on “1996 RL Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement -EricTheCarGuy

  1. I wasn't even going to watch this past 3 minutes but now you got me. The plot thickens and I had to see how it turned out 😀

  2. Honda's are funny… Even when they go bad, they still work……….. Its just a little more noisy.
    I probably would have cleaned and repacked those bearings and gave it a try..(on my own car, not for a customer- obviously)… On a car with that many miles.. I try not to pump a bunch of new parts into, if I don't have to.

  3. Is there a reason that he just put it on there dry without coating the axle with some grease or anti-seize to prevent the race from getting stuck next time?

  4. I have a 04 Lincoln LS I am trying to change my rear hub bearings. I have a hub removal with slide hammer but the Hub still won't come off. Any suggestions

  5. I did this on a peugot about 6 months ago and it just spat all its grease out and now it sounds like an airplane again.

  6. I have always just used a dremel cut off wheel to cut a groove in the race then use a cold chisel and whack it to cause it to crack on said groove. Works every time and no need to remove ebrake stuff.

  7. I watch all of Eric and scotty's videos as they simplify things for the home mechanic and are great to see before you do yourself and you can pick up some handy tips from these pro's. I just add something really important. Every DIY basic tool kit should include Tools, Torque Wrench and feeler gauges plus for suspension, ball joint remover and for wheel bearings, a bearing slitter/pull kit ($30)ebay saves cutting and damaging spindles and you can reuse the outer part of bearing in the case of Hub bearing repack. Also Full Bearing puller kit ($75) for full hub bearing removal and replace. All these videos are great except they just tighten critical nut and drop the jack, It so important to torque all critical parts for couple reasons. First so part not undo or over tighten and strip off. Next for correct pressure like head gaskets, If manual says dry thread- DO that . If you lube it may apply more torque and over squish gasket or head and could lead to leaks/problems as head gasket is over compressed. Also bearings need to be seated and torqued while turning then usually a final small torques to provide pre load is used and pin put in and final check for play and free spin. Another important eg is CV joint outer nut. This is usually torqued to 200-300 NM to seat and provide long life to bearing in hub so guessing that is really bad idea. I have quality Torque wrenches but bought cheap Chinese one $14 that goes to 300 NM so i use only for CV nut as it has range so i can allow for slight inaccuracy of wrench and still stay within specs. All other smaller precise settings i use good wrench to get it exact. With pullers, ball joint splitters ect you want to lube threads as they are trying to pull something apart and kits are ruined by not lubing main pull bolt and nut used and pivots ect.. In all my years of servicing bearings and cars, i never had to readjust except when i repacking after eg 50-60K so going "by the books specs" is really the only safe way to go and assure long life and no failure from critical parts. Use the service manual and you never go wrong.

  8. At 623 in this video I see your trying to get the inner race off. I notice it looks like brake shoes at this point in the video. You actually take them off to get the race off. Then at the very end you are putting on a caliper. This is my first time seeing shoe's and pads on a car at the same time. Is this the case? Do cars have both types of brakes on the same vehicle? Just curious. Great video, your the best!!

  9. A way to easily remove that race is to weld a bead around the center of it.. That will heat it and the bead will pull the I.D. open a little. almost always works. Works even better on outer races that get stuck in a housing of some sort.

  10. Another great one, hey Eric if the inner race won't come off can you use a large pipe wrench? Thanks from Queens NY👍🏻

  11. my rear wheel wobbles around the kid before me never kept up with the car so I'm thinking its more by now if it's not making noise just looks like its gonna fall off

  12. I will give you something to try. I do this with hydraulic pumps. Take your mig weilder and weild a beed on the race about an inch long and it will fall off the shaft. I always cover the shaft with an old weilding glove. When you try this method you will never do it any other way.

  13. Eric i watched your video and noticed it was an acura im needing to change my rear wheel bearings on a 1995 Ford areostar is the change similar or do you have a video for a Ford. thanks Eric

  14. Hey Eric I have a 00 Ford Mustang rear right bearing gone bad .. Since I don't know much about cars I was wondering if I could buy it as an assembly or does the bearing have a different name because I can't seem to find it online.. Only the front wheel hub assembly shows up

  15. Eric could you have used a three jaw puller on the race instead of cutting it with a air cut off wheel, just wondering since I have a set of them and I would rather pull it off than cut into the axle. let me know if it possible in case I ever run into this problem in the future. Thanks and stay Dirty my friend.

  16. I have an issue on a 97 Camaro. There is a high pitched metal on metal sound that emits from the driver side rear wheel area. I ONLY hear this sound when turning left. I have no ebrake pads on that side and brand new rotors/brakes on all 4 corners. This squeal was happening before and after the rotor/brake change. Could this be a bad bearing or hub?

  17. good to see you practice your problem solving skills many times they only show the easy clean parts  version                       i never have that good luck

  18. There is a sound coming from the back when I'm driving at slow speeds in my 1996 subaru impreza outback wagon. It sounds like the sound a car would make when driving slowly on gravel or packed snow only louder. I do live in Minnesota so I thought it was just driving on snow and loud for some reason, but then it kept happening when the streets were clean.  I'm trying to decide if this is brakes or bearings. It stops when going a bit faster but then makes "tick" noise at in interval at 30-40 MPH, and the sound goes away once I hit 50mph or more. It's a bit hard to determine because I have also been putting off hanging a new exhaust system because of the bitter cold so it's quite nosey in addition to the rear wheel sounds. If anyone has advice on how to identify and fix this, I'd be greatly appreciative. 

  19. If you have the propper tolls then id say use a gear puller. Thats what this set up is designed for. Saves ya alot of bangining. In some cases that center race will be a prblem especially if the hub is that worn.

  20. I have a 2005 Mustang and when I drive I hear a speed-dependent "whoop whoop whoop" sound.  Is that the wheel bearings?

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