2001 GMC Sonoma 2.2L Engine Replacement (Part 2) -EricTheCarGuy

Link to full version of the video: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/vmanuals/22-vmanual-store/236-2001-gmc-sonoma-2-2l-engine-replacement-video-full-version

Here’s part 2 of the Sonoma Engine replacement series. In this video we finish removing the engine from the chassis. There were a few snags but we overcame them and in the end we remove the engine. The exhaust was a real pain that took a lot longer than what was shown in the video. If I were to do it again I would have taken both engine mounts off to help gain access to the bell housing bolts. I talk about that more later in the series. In the end, the engine comes out. Ryan would be happy I’m sure.

Link to Part 1 in case you missed it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ivqj2LjE28&feature=youtu.be

Link to Part 3:

Donate for DIPG: http://www.reflectionsofgrace.org/index.php/diffuse-intrinsic-pontine-glioma-dipg.html

Other videos staring this truck.

Tapered Roller Bearing Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ccsbu2hT0MI

Lubricating a Chassis: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bB2RiRKDQ9k

Serpentine Belt Replacement: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wg1AX77xEBQ

Discussion about this video: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/18-The-EricTheCarGuy-Video-Forum/46056-2001-gmc-sonoma-2-2l-engine-replacement-series#65904

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Stay Dirty


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Author: Rafael


36 thoughts on “2001 GMC Sonoma 2.2L Engine Replacement (Part 2) -EricTheCarGuy

  1. Hello Eric im going to be installing a 2.2 liter engine , I did purchase an engine from orileys, what are your thoughts on this engine or if you have heard of these engine long blocks ? Power torque engine long blocks

  2. Here's an old school cheat for removing stuck fasteners like Chevy exhaust bolts. After you get them good and hot take a cheap candle and push the wax onto the threads while the metal is hot and expanded the paraffin wax will chase down the threads and work just like a perfect lubricant and you will be able to get your fastener off. I work on boat motors for living and I probably can get off 98 to 99% of stuck and corroded fasteners using this method.

  3. 10:27 rebuilding my 99 Chevy s10 and let me tell you something I had to use a sawzall to get through the studs of the exhaust manifold. That's where I'm at with the project just ordered a new front pipe and keeping it going…love this S10 even though it's a 4 cylinder it's still my baby and she's in red❤

  4. Eric, I am glad (not really) that you are having the same problems with vehicles that myself and everyone else has. It just makes me feel like I am not the only one when I hear it from a mechanic.

  5. i have the same 2.2l engine, an s10, equal miles and I found this wire with a green cap midway through it left unplugged with that connector you were holding in your hand at 45:46. I need to know where it goes and what to plug it back into. Funky smell wafting through the air when my truck is running. Unburnt fuel vapors in the air? Stinks! I did notice you had the engine up on a hoist and it was below the air intake and behind the alternator, so, ive got somewhere to start..

  6. Brother Eric, Thank you again. I am doing one today on a 1998 automatic. I am grateful for you taking time to create videos. The world is a better place. Sorry for your loss.

  7. We did the same swap on a 2000 S-10; It was much easier to take the wiring harness off the fuse block and lay the harness back from over the engine. Three 10 mm bolts held the fuse block in place, one 10 mm electrical connector at the front, one 7 mm bolt to remove that section of harness from the fuse block. Also, it was MUCH easier to access the bolts and electrical connectors low on the passenger side from the wheel wells with the tires removed.

  8. Lift front first then clear mounts, starter motor, hangs on mount bad  and hits fire wall     Before set Replacement  down in mounts re hook all crap on passenger side other wise its hell

  9. That is a bitch of a job to do on the ground. No money would make a job like that worthwhile..but good on you for doing it..

  10. Gear wrenches and penetrating fluid works great for exhaust manifold bolts, once you break torque that is.

  11. I have one of these looks hard it's a good truck with 300 k I could pull a Subaru motor in a hour or so all cars should that easy I feel for Eric the struggle continues

  12. Eric I wonder if your ever going to put the engine in Oliver,I really was interested,But I think your stalling,,I'm disappointed going on to someone else…

  13. Part 2: 7:00. I soaked the exhaust bolts with WD-40, I mean soaked, waited overnight, and those bolts slid out. They had a fair amount of rust on them. It worked for me. 🙂 BTW, Eric is the definitive guide for everything auto. 🙂

  14. so im thinking of swapping my 4cyl for a 6cyl is there any key things like the trans wont work or maybe the computer or more wiring?

  15. This particular job is a lot less strenuous if you pull the transmission with the engine. If you do not have swivel impact sockets….good luck, I will be praying for you.

  16. Hi Eric my name is Jeremy. I've been following you for a little while now I have a question for you I have a 2012 Dodge Journey I would like to know the best way to remove the fabric on the driver seat please let me know thank you

  17. I have found that air tool oil works well, just after you heat it up, hit it with some air tool oil. because its a really light oil, it gets in everywhere, maybe even better than penetrating oil.

  18. I've been watching your videos for some time now and I'm now replacing my first engine. I've pulled transmissions for a clutch. It's on a 1998 volkswagen passat. 1.8 turbo. I'm glad it's a small engine because I had to lift it out by hand. I'm going to be installing the new engine in the next few days. I've placed as many fasteners back in there place as I can. I feel a little overwhelmed but I still have my fingers crossed. Thanks for the videos.

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