2004 Acura 3.2L TL Engine Replacement (Part 1)

2004 Acura 3.2L TL Engine Replacement (Part 2): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNgHErpLf3M

2004 Acura 3.2L TL Engine Replacement (Part 3): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csyxyTHFwfM

2004 Acura 3.2L TL Engine Replacement (Part 4): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTpKDF1tXFg

Link to full version of this video: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/premium-content-web/13-premium-content-videos/1587-2004-acura-3-2l-tl-engine-replacement-full-version

This is the first installment of the 2004 3.2L TL Engine Replacement series. There’s a bit of a bonus with this series in that the vehicle getting the engine has a manual transmission. The engine we’re using came out of a vehicle with an automatic. So for those of you interested in an automatic to manual swap, this gives you a pretty good indication of what you’re up against. BTW, you would also need to swap computers if you were going from automatic to manual.

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Eric Cook

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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.


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26 thoughts on “2004 Acura 3.2L TL Engine Replacement (Part 1)

  1. Used a garage consistently for oil changes. They were going out of businesses and had one of my also oil changes there. They used an impact on my drain plug and cross threaded it.

  2. About that ball joint that wouldn't come loose… two jaw puller. I know, they usually let go after a few hits with the 3lb hammer, but if it's fused in place the puller will get it done. Wouldn't be surprised if a puller from HF broke while attempting this. I just had a 1/2'' breaker bar break in half on a lug nut. Now I'm questioning all of my HF tools.

  3. Nice indoor workshop like that with hydraulic lifts but you are using a shitty DeWalt impact gun and didn't even try to mention a ball joint splitter

  4. I know exactly how you feel when it comes to the drain plugs. I work on diesel pickups and when I go to change the oil on a pre 2011 powerstroke and I have to get up and go back to my tool box because the drain plug isn’t a 19mm I get quite annoyed hahaha

  5. Eric i have a problem with my 91 acura legend. No check engine light when i turn the key on also no start but it cranks over. I have replaced the crank positioning sensor I have replace the ECU I have replace the temperature sensor. I have checked the main relay and erase soldered every single Electronic Component and the relay pull the bench test with it with my voltmeter it passed. Every once in awhile the check engine light with Stampy come on as I turn the key on and then when it goes out I proceed with trying to start the engine it almost starts. I have cracked loose the pressure release nut on top of my fuel filter. When I turn the key on good I noticed the fuel squirting out for 30 seconds nope no fuel. I have checked my fuses and they are good I guess the next step is the fuel pump possibly but for some reason in my gut I don't think that's the problem. Could you possibly help me out my guiding me in a Direction of what this could be. So I remove my car battery the as it sets and when I bring the car battery back to it I hook it up I'm trying to key over the check engine light might come on or we'll barely come on and then come on and then go off and then I'll crank it over and and she will start Amber Run perfect for like one minute and then die I'll turn the key off and back on and no check engine light in the beginning of the Diagnostics of the ECU check of the engine. Help

  6. From what Eric said, I am fairly sure that this car was bought from an auto auction for cheap because of the bad engine and the owner (likely a used car dealer) talked him into swapping the engine for cheap too. The engine is leaking oil all over the outside, probably never properly maintained and suffered an early demise. These 2004 TL is the twin of my 7th Gen Honda Accord V6, I recognize the engine layout and most of the engine components, air box, fuse box, power steering, starter, and all major components including the intake manifold. If I were to even attempt this job, I'd have sprayed the engine with soap and/or degreaser and hose it down with pressure washer to get it as clean as possible. That will help with taking the fasteners and various parts less messy, if the engine is at least clean. Yes, I also recognize the 3 engine mounts and 3 transmission mounts. I had to replace the top transmission mount on mine and it is exactly the same, under the battery tray. As far as organizing, I would lay out the parts as they come off the car in a linear way, so when I put them back, they are in the same order. I'd agree keeping the fasteners with parts make sense so you don't mix them up.

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