**Sponsored Video**with great information.
I’ve teamed up with LOCTITE in this video to highlight an important safety practice, rechecking your fasteners, especially on your repairs and vehicle builds. I recently found 2 missing fasteners and one very loose fastener on the rear brake assembly of my truck build during one of these inspections. If I hadn’t been checking things over during this inspection, it could have caused a catastrophic failure.
So if you’ve built a vehicle, or completed a major repair, please take the time to check over the fasteners to make sure they are secure. Don’t let a little thing like a loose fastener ruin your day.
Also, be sure to use the correct LOCTITE on fasteners that could work loose to prevent this issue from ever happening. Pay particular attention to fasteners that are susceptible to shear loads and vibration like my caliper brackets.
Would you like to sample LOCTITE Threadlockers? Click this link: https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/products/industrial-adhesives/threadlockers/loctite-sample-kit-request-form.html?utm_source=banner&utm_medium=banner-ad&utm_term=influencer&utm_content=20201030–influencer-
More information about LOCTITE Threadlockers: https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/products/industrial-adhesives/threadlockers.html
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nice truck
The "Be safe" part of your motto.
I will buy loctie
Rust is my threadlocker of choice 🙁
Amen… 😎😎😎🙏
I went for a test drive after only finger tightening the bolts on all 4 wheels. Mistakes like this can happen if a test drive is done the day after major repairs and you rely on memory to torque up bolts “next time” never rely on memory especially as you get older, lol.
So, I'm assuming 243 is not permanent, in the event that you had to take something apart that you used it on?
Thank you
Sure enough the driver side intake manifold bolts on my Jeep were at half torque. Do you think I should just tighten those down or should I just loosen them all and then retort the whole thing in sequence? They are TTY bolts, not sure if I can keep retorquing these like that.
This is good advice for any vehicle whether new repair or old original. I have a 50 year old tractor that had a small hydraulic leak and an oil leak. I checked the torque on the oil pan and found every bolt between 1/4 and 1/2 turn loose. I torqued all back to spec and while I was under there, torqued every bolt in sight and now I have no oil leaks. I used Loctite 545 on my leaky hydraulic line and no more leaks anywhere. Pretty good for a 1970 John Deere 4020. I am a believer in Loctite 243 and 545!
Great video Eric. Fasteners are so important, not only their purpose but their operation. Something we try and promote at all times. Stay safe folks and take heed!
Nordlock. It ain't coming loose. Great for suspension or brake bolts.
My most recent build I used the 243 thread locker on a lot of bolts. Used it on timing tensioner bolts, flexplate bolts, torque converter bolts,ball joint studs, caliper bolts,trans mount bolt,motor mounts, timing cover galley cover bolts.
For anyone thinking I shouldn't have used it on them all let me explain why I did.
I have had all the bolts/nuts listed above (besides ball joints) come loose at some point or another(not all on this build). The torque spec on the tensioner bolts is very low and when I pulled this engine apart 1 of the bolts had backed out about 2 threads. I didn't want that to happen again.
The caliper and ball joints having some on it was for safety since this car was built with the intentions of racing it.
Trans and motor mounts I felt were extremely important to put it on because they are stiff mounts and see a lot of vibration. We all know what heat cycles and vibration can do to fasteners.
Keep in mind that having ANYTHING besides recommended lube on the fasteners will alter the torque reading. Research and get a ballpark figure of how much the torque will be altered before you tighten.
Thread locker isn't a replacement for proper torque but is a supplement or safety measure.
This is always a good step particularly on any vehicle that sees performance use, higher vibration and stress is known to aid in fasteners backing off. Part of weekly maintenance on a race and is referred to as a “nut and bolt”
Why don't you answer? I have an accord 95 manual 2 litre. The car runs really bad only when the weather is very humid and hot. But runs powerful with cold weather. Do you have any idea on what's going on? Thank you.
But first service is "just an oil change" Uh, no and your video shows why it isn't just an oil change.
Before I was a tech I did everything by hand and found I had a "re-tighten" rate of maybe 20%. Meaning if I were to go back over the work I just finished maybe 2 out of 10 bolts needed a bit more "oomph". I switched to a beefy long neck electric ratchet and just let it eat on every fastener and find that the stopping point on it is usually perfect, not too much nor too little and if it's a really important bolt that needs to be torqued like a control arm or something I'll finish with a 1/2 inch impact. This combination so far has a 99% success rate minus the time I forgot to torque one wheel down, which I figured out 2 feet out of the bay and corrected.
If I didn't do this I would have gotten killed by mechanical failure years ago. Torque wrenches are your friends ! Its good to take a sharp pointed paint marker with red or white ink and mark torqued bolts to make sure they are in their original positions later on.
Ironic, a couple months ago my last day of tech school, or I should say last week I rushed through a lot of work on my car to finish it before graduating. I put the car on the alignment rack and I found out when I went to adjust my inner tierods when no numbers on the screen changed what I had done. Thought I didn’t need loctite on those. Sure did.
Please , please, do not use on fan clutches, that use one large threaded nut ..
Hey I have a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee I changed the camshaft sensor Krista code came up after I change it I have a worse problem now it's making popping sounds as I accelerate I bought the part from AutoZone I don't know if it's the part or but it's still coming up with the same code for the same sensor