Does Our Flood Damaged Dodge Viper have a BAD Engine? Here’s what we found Inside…

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We found the crazy history and crash footage of our Flood Salvage Totaled Dodge Viper SRT10! Then we take a look inside the engine and test multiple ways to clean the inside before we see if it will start and run!

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36 thoughts on “Does Our Flood Damaged Dodge Viper have a BAD Engine? Here’s what we found Inside…

  1. Don't think you get away with it this easy but it has the reputation being a simple engine to work on.
    Don't know what the owners plans for this car are but removing the heads and replacing bearings probably most logical thing to do

  2. spray the cylinders with wd40 and while wet turn it over by hand a few revolutions' the what you are seeing is more than likely mud. I've seen this in a bunch of sunk boats. There is a better than not chance that motor will fire right up and all that crud with burn off and shoot right out the exhaust valve. I have done this with quite a few marinized 6.2s (equally expensive to a viper longblock) The intake manifold will more than likely be hiding a bunch more mud and debris . Im always shocked at how much dirt gets in. getting the motor fired up and comply up to temp is the only way to stop rust in an engine this is why oil temps should not be below the boiling point of water adv 230*. Every time you run an engine you are boiling all the built up moisture off. Corrosion X will be your friend. If you want to find local help. Find someone who deals with sunk wake boats in your area. We see them alot….

  3. Have you considered soda blasting. I have been experimenting with it as you can blast body panels.without warping them. Water will dissolve the baking soda. Just an off the wall idea.

  4. That car was a big waste of money. To fix it correctly would cost more than this car will ever be worth………Any place that salt water touched the metal it will rust if not properly cleaned. The engine can be rebuilt but removing the body off the car and checking out the wire harness connectors. All the computer modules…..Lot of time and a lot of money………

  5. In my opinion, you should take off the heads, clean the valves, the cylinders, hone them out (or however you say that), clean out the intake, the injectors, pour some ATF in the cylinders and keep it there for about 3 days. Then slowly start moving the crankshaft pulley.

  6. That’s awesome that you most likely know what happened now! Would be nice to be able to see accident video from any vehicle with cameras onboard!

  7. Pulling the heads makes the most sense. I will also say, when we have cooling systems filled with rust and silicate we use cummins restore plus coolant flush. Smells like sulfuric acid and rips through the super rusty trucks

  8. It’s clearly got sand in the cylinders. Apple cider vinegar for a couple days will make a rusty motorcycle tank shine.

  9. Pull the heads and oil pan. Check everything and thoroughly clean. Any grit (sand) rust and so on with destroy engine if not right away eventually.

  10. So, before pulling the heads or the whole motor, consider agitation. If you can get a couple of tubes into the spark plug hole, one being supply, one being return, connect them to a pump, like an aquarium pump or something like it. Just run the evaporust through the cylinder for some period of time. Sort of flushing each cylinder. Plus, if you can run the tubes through a cork to seal the spark plug hole, you could actually fill up the combustion chamber with the fluid, to give it a good soak. Might work enough to get rid of the bad deposits, enough to then maybe turn it over. But, lets face it, unless you take the motor apart, never going to be really right. Good luck.

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