#FairmontProject Final Assembly (Part 3)

This video is Part 3 of the final assembly of the #FairmontProject.

#FairmontProject Final Assembly (Part 2): https://youtu.be/u1VQkkSVs6U

You will notice that there has been a lot of work done since Part 2. Here are the videos that took place between Part 2 and Part 3.

Foxbody Steering Upgrade: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZMgXCNUiuk&t=1s

How To Install the Best FoxBody Front Suspension: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWDx_Do7IiA

How To Dress Up Your Engine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eKP2WkIoyc&t=10s

Music: Puerto Rico Me Llama Jimmy Fontanez (YouTube Music)

My Patreon Account: https://www.patreon.com/EricTheCarGuy

The best place for answers to your automotive questions: http://www.ericthecarguy.com

Check out the ETCG Blog for the latest info: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/blog

Check out my ETCG1 channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/ETCG1?sub_confirmation=1

Thanks for watching!

The Fairmont’s Hot Rod Article: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/eric-car-guys-turbo-fairmont/?sm_id=organic_fb_HRN_trueanthem&utm_campaign=&utm_content=5ac8494f04d3014862758057&utm_medium=&utm_source=

Parts

Sector Shaft: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Steering-Shaft-Assembly-Power-Steering-Rack-1979-93-Mustang-P980.aspx

Exhaust Wrap: https://designengineering.com/titanium-exhaust-wrap

Tools

Astro Saw: https://www.jbtoolsales.com/astro-pneumatic-930-air-saber-saw-with-5-piece-blade-set#oid=1002_1

Trusty Cook Hammers: https://trustycook.com/product-category/hammers/

Related Videos

Clocking a Turbo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dLY3l9D_lro

Why My New Turbo is Better: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2UoT0RvUosc

How To Install a Torque Arm in a Fox Body: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8E4XV4cUWc

Installing Rear Disc Brakes (the Hard Way): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHFYrGEV3QQ

Ford 8.8 Assembly (Part 1): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fARhE7v5Bg

Engine Assembly Crankshaft and Pistons: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=st0X4k3EH18

Epic Story Bro, Jekyll Island 2018: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaopPvJyxeY&t=19s

The #FairmontProject Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L22GsHQi7tU&list=PLSzhQ6St-ov2nxWVKCeU14Vt7JJ_QSZvs

**Answers to your automotive questions found here: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq

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Wanna see more stuff like this from ETCG? Information on Premium Membership: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/premium-content-streaming-etcg-content

Stay Dirty

ETCG

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42 thoughts on “#FairmontProject Final Assembly (Part 3)

  1. If you're in a pinch, and don't have a copper crush washer, you can anneal the copper to resoften it. It gets work hardened and by simply heating it to a dull red and quenching it in water will make it so you can crush it again

  2. Sorry man. You started posting all the Fairmont videos and I lost interest in your channel. Work on more Chevy and Fords so more people can relate. Get back to the basics.

  3. For years I wanted to complete a Fairmont build much like the one you have. Unfortunately good condition two door Fairmont are hard to find in my are, so I settled for a fox notchback which I hope to start shortly. However I recently discovered your very helpful series and am starting to wish I held out for a Fairmont. The car looks great. It's just sleeper enough.

  4. Hey Eric I have a quick question about a 1992 accord motor, can you add me on Facebook? I followed your page but can’t find where to message you

  5. I quit using crush washers, switch to bonded seal washers (with rubber inside a steel washer, common in hydrolics) and you will never look back

  6. Dont forget to slice some vacuum line down the middle lenght wise and place it on the edge of the hole you cut to prevent your pipe from rubbing.

  7. I hope you check this. I seen a question that someone asked you about a throttle problem they were having with a Ford Focus. I’ve also been watching your videos and you might have a answer for me about my car. Anyways so I noticed almost immediately that there was a problem with my car I’ve taken it back to the dealership to have them look at it and they said they couldn’t duplicate it. So that was a complete waste of my time. So I’m on a mission to fix it on my own now and hopefully you have a solution for me. I bought a 2013 Genesis 3.8 Track when I’m driving if I hold the clutch in while coastingt my RPMs will raise up they first drop down not all the way but a little bit to about 800 then slowly increase to 2000 then it will drop to a 1000 and slowly increase to 2000 again and again. It sometimes won’t even drop it will just stay at 2000 if I tap the gas like you would do to a carbureted engine to kick the choke off it sometimes will make it more aggressive and the RPM’s will raise higher the highest I’ve seen it get to is 3500 RPM’s. It wasn’t every time at first it would only happen after I drove somewhere turned it off then started it up and drove away then it would happen but it’s happening more often now. If I get on the throttle then use the clutch to coast it will start to do it. If I come to a complete stop my cars RPM’s will drop to the appropriate RMP’s which is 6500. It will stay there with no stutter no noise it’s like nothing is wrong. If it’s in neutral or in gear doesn’t matter which one so long as I’m coasting it will happen. At first I thought maybe the clutch and the throttle were intertwined but after reading what you have wrote on other post I don’t think that’s the case. Also I tried to buy a book on my car a Haynes or a Chilton manual but I was told my car is to new. That they don’t make them for my car yet. After talking around I heard it could be bad gas well I only use premium from Shell Gas station. Or that my throttle body is dirty. Well I bought throttle body cleaner and removed the throttle body. Cleaning it and put a new air filter in. At first I thought that it worked but still didn’t fix it. I was thinking about buying a new throttle body that maybe something is wrong with it but if it’s not going to fix it then I wasted a bunch of money. They are quite expensive so I would prefer not to go that route. I also seen something you posted on a page saying that you had an instance where there was a coolant leak and it was flooding out the coolant sensor which gave spurious data, which caused the engine to ask for more fuel. Well I can smell coolant coming from my car after driving it but there hasn’t been a puddle and I bought some antifreeze but haven’t had to add any of it. My car has 51,000 miles on it and when I bought it there was only 43,000 on the odometer. So again it happens only while the car is rolling it stops Revving up the minute I come to a complete stop but even if I’m rolling at 5mph the rev will still have my RPM’s high. I could have it in any gear with the clutch in and it will happen or I can put it in neutral and take my foot off the clutch if I’m rolling it will rev up but the minute I come to a complete stop the RPM’s will drop to normal so my car idles normal when stopped. It starts just fine if I rev the car up while stopped the RPM’s will go up and come back down to normal no problems but if I’m coasting and it starts to happen if I rev the motor the cars RPM’s will raise up and stay up till I stop or till I put it back in gear. If I put it in gear it doesn’t raise up it will be at the RPM’s it’s supposed to be at. Your help would be much appreciated I’m running out of ideas thank you.

  8. That engine looks great and I can't wait to hear it building boost!. Although wrapping the flex pipe is NOT recommended as it'll transfer vibrations and gas leaks, the wrap will protect the flex pipe braid from being attacked by uneven roads.

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