Honda/Acura Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Replacement

This trailing arm bushing repair will apply to:

Honda Civics 1989-2000
Honda CRV 1997-2001
Acura Integra 1990-2001

It is very common for the trailing arm bushings on older Honda Civics and Acura Integras to degrade and break.

Honda wants to sell you the entire control arm, but with the tool in this video, a new set of aftermarket bushings, and this video, you can fix up your rear suspension in no time.

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The Parts I used

Rear trailing arm bushings:

Rear Compensating arm (the one I burned the bushing on):

Solid Bushings:


Bushing Tool:

Ingersoll Rand 3/8″ Impact:

Milwaukee 1/2” Impact:

Related Videos

(Before ETCG) Trailing Arm Bushing Repair (Part 1):

(Before ETCG) Trailing Arm Bushing Repair (Part 2):

How To Find Suspension Noises:

Honda Element/CRV Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement:

Solving Rear End Noise Honda Element/CRV:

Honda Loose Wiper Arm Repair:

Honda Ignition Coil Replacement:

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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®.


Author: Rafael


41 thoughts on “Honda/Acura Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Replacement

  1. Wondering if that's the culprit to all the rear-end clunking sounds on my 2003 Honda Element. I did watch your previous videos, years ago about the rear end sounds…replaced all the stuff you mentioned but clunking still kept on for another 5 years….I'm at 312,000 miles knock on wood! Thanks for all your videos through the years man!

  2. …..I got to change the suspension bushing on my 1998 Daihatsu Charade. Its a much simpler setup and I will be doing it DIY at home. I will follow your tip to freeze the bushing the night before. Thank you.
    On the same note, back in the 90's, me and my dad changed the bushings on my Mercedes Benz (W116), and boy that was a big, big battle. We tried all heavy tools and heat but it would not budge, untill finally we got a thick walled pipe cut to a good length, got it machined on a lathe and used a big hydraulic press to push it out.!!

  3. I have seen 2 different bushing, the one that on the video is 2 pt bushing and the other one is 4 pt bushing, my question is what is better the 4pt bushing or the 2pt bushing?

  4. I've done alot of hard jobs on my car but i don't think i'd ever attempt the bushings if i had the same setup as the honda in this video luckily setup my car has is easier to work on.

  5. eric I've read that your supposed to sit the weight of the car down before you tighten those trailing arm bolts because if you tighten them all up and the weight of the car sits on them it will cause them to slightly twist and rip ? is this true or not

  6. I wonder of that tool works for a jeep patriot, rear trailing link arm bushing.
    I cant find the tools to remove it.
    The part cost me $10
    Those suckers want from $160- to $300 to remove one bushing.

  7. Well I'm breaking a civic and someone wants both rear trailing arms, after watching this video, I'm telling him to fuck off

  8. had the same problem with my toe compensator bushing seizing up at the body end. the nut also dislodged from the body so had to drill a hole to hold the new nut in the body of the car when I replaced the toe compensator

  9. Need to do these on my 01 crv. Thanks for the video. I think I can do this. Also, I once rebuilt the front of a 1988 Acura legend, all from watching your videos. Thank you Eric

  10. Mine rusted so much the bushing and the arm sunk 😀 After some welding work the bushings are in place again. Next replacement will be the whole car 🙂 Very hard job on those civics

  11. Hello everyone,

    I have a 2001 integra that needs both trailing arm bushings replaced. I recently got furloughed so due to lack of funds I was wondering if adding polyurethane sealant could be a temporary fix.

    Not planning on doing it yet, just wanted to know if it would do anything to help at all. Thanks.

  12. I have a '98 CRV and I'm in the middle of replacing the rear trailing arm bushings(with Honda OEM..not messing around with the aftermarket on such a critical item), rear stabilizer bar end-links & bushings,rear struts, and the compensating arms. I bought new bolts for the bottom strut mount and four bolts for the compensating arms. After watching Eric struggle with the inner compensating arm bolt I was fearing the worst since I've owned the vehicle for 22+ years and I know those bolts have never been removed. I live in the Atlantic City area(around 8 miles inland) so although we're certainly not the Rust Belt we do occasionally get snow and our roads are often treated with salt. I was relieved and thrilled when both of the inner compensating arm bolts came loose without too much effort. Before I loosened them I scribed around the bolts to insure they'll be in the same position when I put everything back together. The new trailing arm bushings are resting comfortably in the freezer awaiting installation. Hopefully today goes as well as yesterday.

  13. I can't believe my tool broke!!! It's the end of April 2020. Everything takes more time to ship right now.

    I bought the same tool used in this video from and got the drivers side bushing out in about 15 minutes. I cleaned the hole up, put a little grease in it, took the new bushing out of the freezer and hammered in till it caught. I set the tool up on it and started cranking, checking to be sure it was going in straight.

    Then the cup tilted down about 10 degrees from horizontal. I stopped and examined everything and the top arm of the tool was bending. I took it off. The top arm was cracked all the way across about half way through just below the weld. I sent it back and jbtools is giving me a complete refund. I would order another one from them, but they're out of stock. I had to buy from amazon to get it here in a week with free shipping. I like jbtools! If you spend $99 or more they ship it free.

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