Honda K Series Valve Adjustment -EricTheCarGuy

31 thoughts on “Honda K Series Valve Adjustment -EricTheCarGuy”

1. Sooo, after doing adjustment, aren't you supposed to use a torque wrench to the manufacturer specification? And then it would be to tight, aka, to close for manufacturer specifications?

2. Turning motor over by using bolt on power steering pump. Ingenious. But where is it on my Si?

3. Eric your method is the best for doing valve adjustment, repair book relies on crank degree position, but that's less accurate than looking at cam lobe position, thank you for so many great videos 🙂

4. Does this Apply on the 2.0 liter engine? In my country the crv 2001-2006 have a 2.0 l engine.

5. The Bob Ross of Mechanics Thank You!

6. Eric it almost sounds like a tractor!!! mine has a VERY tractory sound to it now and i have not adjusted yet im at 70-73k

7. Before adjusting valves. Check to make sure all the bolts under there are torqued to spec. Specifically for the camshafts.
   
   I figured out a sure fire way to adjust the valves, that takes the guess work out of it. 2 feeler gauges. 1 size you want to adjust, and 1 size higher. Slip in the size you want to adjust, and make sure it needs adjustment. It should slide in and give that slight drag. Once you find the sweet spot (moves, but doesn't bind), lift and than push the rocker arm by the adjustment nut, and listen/feel for a slight tick. Just an ever so slight tick. Check to make sure it is still good by putting the 1 size larger gauge in that should be snug, with a decent amount of drag. Do the same, and lift it up and down and feel/listen and there should be no sound/feel at all.
   
   If it is tight/lose, than loosen, and adjust. I put the 1 size larger gauge in, let it go, and tighten/loosen the screw until it is snug. You can feel where it snugs, and loosens. You want to tighten/loosen until you get it to just barely snug up on it. Slide it around to make sure it is at its loosest point, and not binding by being bent. Repeat until you get that sweets spot. Lift up and down on the rocker arm again making sure you can't hear/feel it move. Tighten the nut. Than put in the gauge size you want, and make sure you get that slight drag, and do the sound/feel test again. You should hear/feel it tick. If there is no tick, than keep the gauge in, and adjust until you hear that slight tick. Than insert the larger gauge, and listen/feel for no tick. Once you are satisfied, move on.
   
   This method works best on exhaust as it will tighten over time, so you want a slightly loose exhaust. I would look at the clearance range, and try to shoot for the higher end of that range. That is the 1 size larger is at the max range for the clearance. A tight exhaust valve is where you start burning up valves.
   
   Once you are done Torque all the nuts to spec, and go around and do it all again. It helps to put a straight skinny piece down the spark plug tube (I use a long 3/4 ratchet extension), that is long enough to stick out the top once it bottoms out on the piston. Watch it as it hits the top, and if it starts to go down while turning the crank than you went too far. Don't back up, just go back around, but pay attention to where it started to come back down, so that you know where to stop. If you back it up, than you can damage the tensioner, and that will cause a whole new tapping noise.
   
   Don't crack all the adjustment nuts loose, as not all will need to be adjusted. Just check the clearance first, and than adjust if needed. Most of the time you will find just the exhaust and maybe a few intake will need to be adjusted. You will find the exhaust tight, and intake loose. As they each do that over time.
   
   If you used an aftermarket tensioner when you did the timing belt, those don't last long. You will be replacing it in a year or 2. The OEM from Honda will last until the belt is needing changed.

8. Thanks Eric the car guy for your help
   Did this valve job on my 05 CRV today and nailed it

9. Did mine @168000……did not notice much difference from factory……waste of time…..money and effort. Plugs needed changed at the most.

10. Does the K24A8 have the same valve clearance specs?

11. Hello, does anyone have the valve lash specs available for the Honda Civic (EP1, engine D14Z6)? I just cannot find anything on the web. Do the Honda dealerships provide customers with the specs?

12. Hi Eric. I have a 2010 Honda CR-V that like many K24, makes a grinding noise on cold start ups for less than 3 seconds. My concern is, (beside that annoying noise) can that VTC actuator gear harm the engine? Thanks

13. Is there a valve seal video for this engine? Mine need to be replaced

14. BEFORE: 1:47 ; AFTER – 34:51 ;;; Sound is reproduced in camera/youtube/speakers, but tact time is very smoother… Thanks for detailed and well focused video. Btw this special tool can be easily made by welding item to tube wrench, nice idea.

15. This job is so much easier on cars than motorcycles. So much more space to work

16. I've just finished adjusting them today, it's now waaaaay louder, my car is 06 Accord with 135 on odo. I found both intake and exhaust too tight specially on exhaust they were tooooooo tight, I went .25 int, .30 exh

17. I enjoyed watching from beginning to end. Your video is very informative. Thank you.

18. Thanks Eric. I did this today. As you mentioned, the intake were lose and the exhaust were tight. A bit of a challenge reaching back behind to get the exhaust valves adjusted. Especially for a 67 yr. old guy. So far, engine is running smooth. '03 AWD. I appreciate your help as always.

19. Great video @Eric! One question I have is compression. I have a 08' element and I am experiencing 20psi in cylinder one and 0psi in cylinder 4! Will this help or do I have a burnt valve/valves or something else internal? I did a wet and a dry compression test but I don't know how to accurately do a leakdown test. I've never done one. If I do a leakdown test, what am I looking for and what tools would I need? Thank you, you have been SO helpful over the years and I appreciate all of the time you work putting out these videos for people!

20. Hey Eric, Thanks for making this video!! very helpful!! I was gong to ask If its possible to use a 10mm wrench and flat head screw driver on this entire engine or If I NEED the special valve adjustment tool? Im only asking as its the only tool I dont have for this job and my valves could use an adjustment sooner then later so I dont want to wait to order it.

21. Wonderful camera angle! Good Job!!

22. I let Honda dealership do this job for my 05 Accord at around 85000 miles 1 year ago. It was quite expensive at around $1000. I didn't know I could do it myself!

23. I have a misfire cylinder 1 on my 2011 crv 70k miles (Yes I did check the spark and fuel first) do you think it may be just a valve ajust issue by any prayerful chance?

24. Geat video ! Link for VA tool no good. Is it snap-on Tool part no. YA8895 ? TY!

25. Will this remedy a CEL for a # 3 cylinder misfire?
    So far coil packs and plugs replaced. Spark plugs are clean and Element runs great otherwise. 208k miles.

26. great tip for newcomers – if you have a micrometer – you can use that to get the 'feel' of what the gauge should be like.

27. need to do my valve adjustments on my k24a2

28. what are all of the torque specs

29. Eric, thank you for this video. Just did my valves on my 08 Si and your video was instrumental in helping me. (Using K20 specs) It wasn't until the No. 3 cylinder that I got the "feel" down, but I did them all twice to be sure. Thank you again.

30. Thank you, fixed my non starting K20 😀

31. This video was so helpful! I have an 04 element that kept idling down and stalling when cold shifting to D or R, and had a bad starter. This video and your starter replacement video helped get it up and running again perfectly! Keep up the awesome videos!

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