This was a request from a while ago and I’m happy to get to it now. I did a bunch of video on this car (1990 Honda Accord LX) and have lots more to show you in future episodes. Honda captive rotors are a pain to say the least. For the most part you can take them somewhere that is equipped with an on-the-car brake lathe to have them machined when they get warped but in this cast they were too thin and damaged for machining and needed to be replaced. I have to admit that this job does not always go this easy, it usually requires a lot more effort, some pain, and perhaps a little blood to accomplish but I guess it was trying to behave for the camera on this day. Astute views may notice that I switched sides for the video, that’s because I ended up replacing the wheel bearing on the side that I started with and did the disassembly a bit differently as a result, good eye if you spotted that.
I’ll be posting more videos from this car in future weeks so keep an eye out if you have one of these that needs some work.
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Even though this is pretty old helped me out a lot thanks.
U didn’t say wht size is the nut was
Wow this hard my gmc was easy to change
Thxs
Thanks Eric! I would have wasted a bunch of time and probably broke some stuff as well if I hadn't watched your video.
Something to note, you can whack the ball joints (well not the ball joint but the metal around it) and they might not come out. One tip for the lower ball joint is to lower your car a bit but leave it on blocks, just not as high then move your jack and put pressure on the ball joint before you start hitting it with the hammer. I had one that just would not come out I finally decided some additional help was needed and when I did this it popped out on the second hit.
Could not have done it without this video thanks ETCG did both sides on my 93 accord my god am I glad its done that can be a job
What size are the 4 bolts that bolt on to the hub I can’t find them anywhere
Hey Eric… Dont know how good your memory is but I'll ask anyway. On the Early 90's Honda Accord You did several Wheel Hub Bearing & Captive Rotor Video's. As I was cleaning all my parts for reassembly I noticed on the Dust Shield thats held on by three Phillips Screws – there is a metal Tab/Flange… Is that tab seriously trapped between the Machined surfaces of the Hub Bearing and the Knuckle Machined Surface… Looks like it had to have been but seems like that would actually make the two Machined Surfaces Not 100% mate flush!!! I am almost a notion to grind that off. It doesn't appear to be absolutely Necessary… Do you Recall that? and What is your take if so?
This is what you call german engineering lol
Hey Eric, before you loosen the axle nut, don't you have to lift up that little notch on the threads?
Tks nice video
I didn't even realize my 1997 Accord had captured rotors until I was sitting there on the garage floor with my wheel and old caliper off trying to figure out how im supposed to install my shiny new rotors. Thanks for the vid Eric! I have used your videos on many of my vehicles over the years and i appreciate them greatly!
I will never ever buy a f*cking Honda again just because of their design on these brake system and I'm gonna junk this f*cking car piece of crap.
Well decided to do a brake, CV drive axial replacement on my 97 Honda Accord I just bought. And as you figure I been beating my head against the wall trying to figure this shit out myself. Not possible. Thanks to your video, I have some direction
Eric this video is what made me subscribe to your channel so long ago. Thank you for all your great content over the years !
Hey Cap, thank you for saving my 6. Im kind of ashamed. Im the son of a life long Diesel mechanic 😓😓🤘🤓. Gg and thanks again
That's a 4th gen accord 5th gen starts at 94 or 95
He should have used big nasty.
I just had a new bearing pressed into the hub and the new rotor does not clear fitting over the bearing. I know it's a key'd design but every angle I maneuver the rotor it will not fit over the bearing. Both rotors and bearing are the correct part number for my vehicle. I am unsure if it is wise to lightly grind the inner ridge of the rotor NOT the rotor's brake surface to see if that will provide enough clearance. Upon closer inspection, it's the bearing that is slightly beefier than the OEM one that is not providing enough clearance. I tried fitting the old rotor over the new bearing and it also has the same clearance issue which tells me for certain that it's the bearing. Anyone have any experience running into this issue? Any solutions? I just want to get my car back on the road!
Time for a pad slap
Wait! he has a vice grip on a on a flexible brake line? The inner liner breaks and collapses. Never do this, Never.
… funny, you don't like to let the caliper HANG. More than likely, you don't want to replace the rubber line also. I saw some "PROS" let them just drop, and I'm thinking, WTF? are these things indestructible? NO, THEY ARE NOT.
I slammed it out with a sludge hammer from the center three hit
What sadist designed this insanity? I've never seen something so insane in my life.
Would I need an alignment after this work?
anyone know the size socket used for that axel nut? Gonna need that.
HOLY CARP!!!
Engineers must have been like "How can we design this to be completely flippin retarded"
Years later and this video is helping me change mine . Thanks for the great video!
Very help full man thanks for making these vids cuz a shop is trying to charge me 300 do to this same crap
About a year ago I replaced the rotors with new ones. Got them on line, the cheapest ones, and now a year later they are shaking worse than before. What are the best rotors to buy now that I half to do this job over again? At least this time they will be much easier to replace because I clean and grease them where they bolt together. But would like to use the best rotors this time. Are the most expensive the best? Or are Honda's the best replacement?
Very helpful! Thanks!
I need to replace my rotor on 97 accord I just did CV axel , and the 4 bolts on inner part on the back of assembly knuckle broke off in there so rotor stuck on I cant find the knuckle part to buy anywhere … I need help please comment back asap its urgent
Hi Eric, I was wondering if you knew what size those long bolts you use are ? I need to pick some up. Gotta do front brakes on my friend's 96 Accord this week.
Thanks for the great videos, and keep up the good work !
Such great cars! Mine has 299,500 on it! But wtf Honda, your captive rotors suck!
Eric what is the best penetrating oil (or substitute) that you have used? I have a fastener that just won't break free. The 1st 3 were no problem. I don't have a bench and vise so I'm stuck. My cheapo electric impact won't budge it 2 different penetrating oils and heat to no avail. Help!
Mechanic I talked to recommends replacing the bearings AND the hubs. I have no problem with replacing the bearings, but should the hubs be replaced? Thanks !
Thx Mate for the Vid
nice job on your video, Eric. I wouldn't hesitate to jump on this job after watching it. ( But, I wish I had more time and more room in my garage. You have convinced me that this car isn't worth changing the rotors on.)
Nice and shiny… Lol
Get a small propane torch, heat up the bearing hole before hammering out with bolts to remove captive rotors.
Literally drops out with minimum heat applied!!
Do you ever use any PB blaster or other penetrating oil to help loosen the rotor or bearing before removal?
Thank you Eric I am watching you all the way from Nicaragua. I like your videos. They are very helpful. Gracias.
cool bro you're the best never did captive rotors before and after beating on the hub to no avail I figured i'd better watch your video thanks Eric……….. Joe
Thanks a lot. Made a huge difference and saved a lot of time…
Thanks Eric for the descriptive video. Will be working on this project this weekend with my son on his 97 Accord.
I know my mechanic has a machine to turn the roters on the car. It cost around 6 grand. Mine is a 97 model. Two things are important to understand. Do you have enough metal left to make the rotor safe……And if you do the best way is to do it on the car if ONLY to make it true to the car and not the lathe. Actually a lot of people will have them turned on the car after installing new rotors. Don't be hatn……its the best way.