Installing a Manual Steering Rack on a Ford Fox Body #FairmontProject

With any vehicle, the ability to steer the vehicle where you want it to go is important. In this installment of the #FairmontProject I install the manual rack I got from a viewer in Washington State as part of a package suspension deal.

Some may disagree with my choice of manual rack for this build and to be honest, I do too. That’s why I have purchased a power steering rack that I’ll be installing with the new K member and front suspension. I think the manual rack would have been fun, but as I’ve said time and again, I want to drive this car. Power steering will make driving it that much more fun.

So, before you get all butt hurt in the comments, read the description!

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Manual rack for 79-93 Fox Body:

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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.


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30 thoughts on “Installing a Manual Steering Rack on a Ford Fox Body #FairmontProject

  1. Hey Eric, I just swapped the power steering rack in my fox mustang. After bleeding I took it around the neighborhood and found the steering wheel tries to turn itself and doesn't return back to center after a turn. Any ideas? I still need to do an alignment.

  2. Eric, good video. Just a thought. That steering column is collapsible. You're able to extend it out towards the engine bay and avoid lengthening the steering shaft. Keep up the good vids!

  3. 17:06 Eric thats impressive bro, I suggest some kind of rubber stops when turning sterring, also a rubber boot over that custom made part , may prevent debri going in, when it comes to servicing.

  4. Thank you for posting this series. As someone who is trying to bring an '89 mustang rolling chassis back to life, I find these videos very helpful.

  5. Power racks without the assist sucks. I would rather get out of a car on the side of the road and leave it instead of drive one like that.

  6. Dude – you were trying to pound the steering shaft into the column upside down. It'll only go in one way – one side is flat and the other's concave…

  7. Excellent tutorial. I watch all of your videos. As much as I have worked on cars since I was a teenager, I still learn a good amount of things from your videos. Thanks for posting them.

  8. hey Eric our dodge neon just broke down it's a late 90s early 2000s, it's kinda cold but we tried to jump start it and that didn't work it has power you turn the key and it clicks but the car doesn't make a sound, any suggestions thanks

  9. Eric dont be such stingy and put a power steering on that thing. Manual steerings are for guys who like to wrestle with their cars. Oops sorry, just read the description now, good choice. thumbs up.

  10. haven't watched in a while. just watched the front brake install too. gotta say. your a likable funny guy, as such you don't need to be Mr. has all the answers. ei: Eric O., you can just be Mr CarGuy. it's not fun to watch a cool; frustrated person struggle. take care man, all the best luck.

  11. Eric you do realize that the fairmont column was collapsing as you were pounding the upper joint in ? its a collapse able column so the shaft doesn't impale your face in a collision

    pull the column back out sand the paint off the other shaft and stick it in…if you run it as is at least drill a hole in each end ,pin it with steel dowels and weld the pins

  12. Thanks for the video Eric, the modification you made to the steering shaft is something that is completely illegal in my country and if seen at yearly safety inspection the car is immobilized immediately,

  13. I had a 1979 Mustang, and that damned "rag joint" (flexible coupler) had dry rotted out and cracked into four or five large pieces; these parts were just hanging loose in the joint. When the flexible coupler's chunks finally fell out of the joint I was on the Interstate and almost had a wreck because I had like five or six inches of slop in the steering and made it nearly impossible to keep a straight line. I pulled over to see what had happened. I knew just about zero about cars back then (1989). I "fixed" the sector shaft with my shoelace. It held well for about a month until I could get a replacement flexible coupler installed. (Scary how stupid we can be when we are young.) I replaced it with one that had been punched from a tire, so it was super strong. It was also less spongy feeling, so the feel of the steering was much improved. It was punched from the belt section of a steel belted radial tire and was in goo shape when I finally sold the car in 1996. The OEM rubber flexible coupler completely disintegrates after about a decade. I think you can find the type of steel impregnated one I got (or better) online, and the steering response is much more direct when you get rid of that rubber disc.

  14. I did away with the power steering on my car, and it is awesome. I also did away with my power brakes, but only because I like my brakes to be linear, and with the power assist, they were too touchy. I daily my car like this, and it isn't difficult.

  15. My dream is to build an incredible sleeper out of something mundane, as Eric is doing with the Fairmont. Thanks to Eric I can see that with a little money and a lot of hard work, that dream can be realized.

  16. Hello, Eric. I was informed by an old tool and die maker, years ago, that the heat at a weld joint pulls carbon from the surrounding area and so will cause the joint to be brittle. One has to anneal a weld in order to get the carbon distribution back to its former state. Heat up to a dull red and allow to air cool.

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