P1131 1998 Mazda 626 -EricTheCarGuy

P1131 is a code for an O2 sensor that has pegged lean. It some cases this means you have a bad O2 sensor, but sometimes it could indicate a vacuum leak, an exhaust leak, an injector that isn’t working, low fuel pressure, a connection problem, a wiring problem, or lastly, an ECU problem. In this video I cover the basics of diagnosing this code as well as how to replace an O2 sensor on this 2.0L 1998 Mazda 626. So the next time you have a P1131 code take some time to check things out before you replace the sensor.

Thanks for watching.

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Tools.

Encore: Link to tool: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/otc-3893-encore-obdii-deluxe-tablet-automotive-scan-tool-kit/#oid=1002_1

O2 Sensor Socket 1: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/gearwrench-3920d-7-8-slot-3-8-drive-pvs-tvs-and-o2-socket/#oid=1002_1

O2 Sensor Socket 2: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/performance-tool-w80491-off-set-o2-sensor-wrench/#oid=1002_1

EricTheCarGuy code lookup: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/obd-code-lookup

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Leaks

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MPG

http://ericthecarguy.com/faq/finding-and-fixing-the-causes-of-poor-mpg

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Stay Dirty

ETCG

Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

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47 thoughts on “P1131 1998 Mazda 626 -EricTheCarGuy

  1. Hi, I hope you can help me with a diagnosis, i have an E46 330ci, the symptoms i'm having is rpm drop when the engine is still cold, sometimes the engine stalls (performance is ok), and poor performance when the engine is warm below 3000rpm, above that the car is responsive with pulls nicely, i looked at short and long term fuel trims, at idle both banks are -8 and as soon as i push on the throttle both banks jump to +17 to +18, which makes me think its not a vacuum leak.
    the things i've done, replaced both fuel pump and fuel filter, currently the fuel pressure is 50psi and holds at throttle.
    o2 sensors were changed recently also, maf reading is 3.8g/s at idle (tried a new maf same readings the maf should have been VDO but there was logo on it which makes me doubt). removed bank 2 sensor to check if the reading get better (clogged cat.) but no change which tells me the cat is good (also the good performance above 3000 rpm).
    i also changed the vanos seals, disa ring (flap is good).
    the only codes i have are P0171 and P0174 (both banks are lean) and i have no idea where to go from here.
    Thanks.

  2. Ho2s are importan because the control the burning fumes, and,the these sensor are bed the can damatage or plug the cathaletic combertor and if this happen it will create back pressure on the exoust system and could damage the head gasket

  3. I have a 1998 Ford Ranger that has that code. I also had a code P0171 and P0174 both lean codes on both banks. I had heads rebuilt and the mechanic never could tell me what those lean codes were from. First he said it was probably my catalytic convertor and then said maybe my fuel injectors. Now Autozone uses a new code tool that they plug into the computer and tells what it is. It said to check the evap vacuum hose so i tried that and sure enough the tiny little vacuum hose runs to the fuel rail to the fuel pressure regulator was cut and hidden under the heater hoses. I paid $3.99 for the hose and that fixed my problem. Now still have the p1131 and Autozone code reader says lean o2 bank one sensor one and to replace the pcv valve and hose, but the valve and hose are good. I think it is the O2 sensor as well. Any thoughts?

  4. I haven't seen it mentioned but O2 sensors do degrade over time for various reasons as well.  It isn't as big of an issue on newer cars and they're usually good for over 100k miles but it is a wear item.  Oddly enough this is a system that actually lasts longer with ethanol in the fuel instead of MBTE as an oxygenate.  

  5. That scan tool is really expensive for a DIY guy that would not use it enough to justify it's price.
    There is the torque app for android that, combined with a bluetooth scanner, can also graph O2 readings like that 🙂 

  6. Hi Eric, I have a 2002 Nissan Quest where I'm getting 2 codes that are both for the O2 sensor (P0138, P0139).  I have put in 2 new sensors and I'm still getting the same codes both times.  Any ideas?  I'm a little lost with this.

  7. Important to say that the engine "exhaust" must be cold, or you will have the sensor expanded on the threads and would be incredible hard to take off you might even break the manifold, hair crack type!  happened to me once! and it sucked! 

  8. I don't see how the conclusion to change an O2 sensor is indicated in any way whatsoever based on the evidence.
      No other PIDs were pulled up, much less considered to see if there could have been any other cause of the lean condition.  Only O2 sensor data was looked at- it cannot possibly be determined if the O2 is reacting to a condition or causing it.
      The peg rich after the brief lean spell would be exactly as expected as the fuel trim compensates for the lean condition. Actually, evidenced O2 sensor response if anything since it returned to cycling when the trim adjusted.

     I just don't see how the conclusion to replace a sensor is even indicated, much less necessitated. Did I miss something here?

  9. wow… thats uh, a really nice scanner haha ive never used anything near that probably cost a good grand maybe 2? ive only used ones that ranged from 50-150 but that there looks like you can sit there and tell the customer every little detail about their car i would love to get one of those

  10. on the nissan maxima the high error code is the worst code to replace parts you WILL WASTE MONEY, as the new parts will fry too!!! several parts need replaced and in my case machine work is need on the throttle body to prevent future coolant leaks from shorting the ECU. glad i did my research first and paid attention during and after disassembly!!!

  11. O2 sensors I deem cheap enough especially in an older vehicle like your to just all out change. But it is nice to see how it failed and did crap intermittently which is more of a real world scenario. Good job at capturing the point in which it failed.

    I am the same way I usually check voltage and watch it after that if it falls in spec I then move on to looking at vacuum leaks and other stuff.

  12. I agree with checking the wiring first. I had a cylinder 3 misfire (2005 Subaru Legacy GT), so the first thing I did was swap the coil packs between cylinders 1 and 3 to determine if that was the issue, but it turned out to be that the connector to the cylinder 3 coil pack was loose. Problem solved, thankfully. No new parts needed 🙂

  13. Eric, I came across this lady's channel on yt and she has to be your long lost sister. Her channel name is doityourselfvirgin.
    She's a diy'er like you too.

  14. Hey Eric, just thought I would let you know that I have no training, formal or informal, and I managed to change a rear main oil seal on a 2004 Camry. By myself. Because of you. BECAUSE OF YOU! I could kiss you on your beautiful shiny head 😛

  15. Hello i have a question my 95 acura integra B18B1 has a studdering problem at 2,500 to 3,500 rpm what could it be the check engine light had code 43 fuel supply system and i changed my o2 sensor and the spark plugs and wires and fuel filter checked the ignition coil and everything is ok im going crazy what could it be please help by the way im a big fan and ive been watching since you started this show keep up the good work

  16. Great video Eric! I had I check engine light come into to shop on a 2006 jeep it was a post o2 lean code.  I tested voltage and resistance with my multimeter all looked good.  Then I used a snap on verus scanner and graphed o2 it looked fine. I checked the connector and wire they were good. so I went back to the scanner and watched switching rate of o2 was fine i stared at it for a long time at around 8 minutes it dropped out lean and stayed lean for 3 minutes.  I replaced the o2 and the truck didnt come back.  I thought it was the cat because o2 looked good. 

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