Replacing Rear Disc Brakes Part 3 – EricTheCarGuy

39 thoughts on “Replacing Rear Disc Brakes Part 3 – EricTheCarGuy”

1. Hi Eric, Is there a torque specification for those bolts which holding the caliper on? You removed them so as to get the caliper off. Lionel.

2. Hey man, 7 years ago and this video is still helping me. Too bad that I just happen to watch part 3. Now I think I have to bleed and flush my car's breaking system because I didnt use DIY bottle bleeder and air must have gotten in. Thank Eric and mabuhay from the Philippines!

3. Are the set screws necessary. I prefer not to use them unless they actually are doing something.

4. Hi Eric Your video is fantastic and helped so much.

   One question once you have changed the rotors and pads what do you do if the handbrake is travelling to far when you pull it? I know there is adjustment at the handbrake handle itself but thought putting new pads on would make the handbrake travel less not more!  thanks Robert

5. Hi Eric, quick question: do I have to use copper anti-seize on brake pads? Can I use the regular anti-seize (silver colored)? 

6. very useful information thanks

7. thank good video

8. very cool…thank care guy…very detail and easy to understand how to fix..

9. That caliper wobbling around would drive me mental,especially in a case where the piston is seized and needs a lot of force to release and then has to be wound in and out a few trillion times to free it up..solution – temporarily re-attach cradle and caliper(4 bolts…4 nanoseconds..bolts don't have to be tight – wear and tear reduction on  body – 37%,wear and tear reduction on nervous system- 103%).
   No..I am NOT prone to exagurate..how dare you suggest such a thing.

10. Thank you so much…. I cursed soooo much until I found this video. Keep doing what you do!

11. Damaged hose? Dangerous under high pressure. . Must changed.

12. I can't hit metal with my hands! Ouchies.

    Great videos!

13. I've been told that the screws that are holding the rotor on are simply there to make assembly of the car easier at the plant, and that you can just throw them out when you do a brake job since the wheel and caliper holds everything together anyway, is that true?

14. as always great video, unlike the other guys uactually explain what and why ur doing things. thank u much for the great tutorials!!! why is it important not to push the brake fluid back to the master cylinder?

15. Well explained Eric! Maybe one day could you video replacing a brake flexi tube as I've searched the net and only have a rough idea ie place polythene over master cyl to seal, maybe plug line end after separation? Thanks

16. Hi Eric, If I need to replace Caliper Kits, do I need to remove piston by anticlockwise or put some pressure? Do I need to remove inner components? Please do reply.Thanks

17. Very nice video Eric, you have a knack for the narration. Keep it up.

18. as usual great vid and its nice to know that eric has probs with bleeders and spanners etc..LOL…got to do front and rear pads on daughters 2002 audi a4 tdi saloon soon (warning light on) so i am hoping its not too diffrent from this vid…tony
    in the uk

19. I changed rear brakes on a Diahatsu Applause, and having a spongy brake pedal, also handbrake doesn't seem to be working….

20. Been watching your videos for quite some time, keep them coming. Very informative

21. Thanks

22. Saved my day. good information. needed this for an infinity same set up.

23. Just a curious question as I was told this when I had the brakes done at Midas on my truck. They say you should have brand new rotors turned to make sure they are not warped. You did not do that with the new rotor in this video. What is your opinion on this suggestion?

24. I forgot to mention on my post to part 2, we highly recommend washing new or turned rotor with soap and water. Once they dry, then condition rotor with the OE Approved Silencer rotor spray. It treats rotor so speed of new pad burnish is slowed down and heat is better controlled. Finally, paint the inside of rotor hat or spindle face with our OE Approved Pastelub 2400 moly, graphite, aluminum paste. The procedure is at… Stop Brake Noise. com. Thanks, Gary

25. i did a Jaguar x type,that piston turns counter clock.

26. @Dragonfly7111 I'm glad you liked the video, thanks very much for that comment it means I'm doing my job well.

27. Thank you very much Eric, I could see everything you were doing, and I really liked the new tool trick as well. Be a single mom doing my own brake job was already costlessly enough without having to purchase YET another tool to finish a job. Wonderful job. Thank you so much.

28. @PoliceWillProtect That's a tough one because you really want to avoid heating them because you could damage the caliper or other components, you might try and air hammer with a pointed bit to 'impact' it off, it really just depends on what you have there and without seeing it for myself it's hard to say unfortunately. Good luck.

29. how did you make your bleeder reservoir ? and i tried to change the breaks on my buddys 2003 buick lesbare and all of the caliper bolts were seized i tried wd-40 anti rust everything, and i don't have a torch what else can i do to unseize the bolt

30. @ryazbeck Nice I love a happy ending. Thanks for your comments.

31. ….. so i took the caliper bracket to a honda shop down the street and he freed up the seized slide bolt and it all went back together in a breeze. simple!

32. hey this is a GREAT walkthrough, thanks a lot.

    i have a problem. got the piston pushed back in with the edge of a wrench, then i put it all back together, but the little top squishy thing that allows the caliper to move side to side is jammed, completely seized. i've taken it apart and pounded it with a hammer and it absolutely will not budge. gonna see if i need to replace it or if it's possible to fix, which i am doubting at this point.

33. @flaco198111 I would recommend you watch all 3 of the videos in this series or the full length version as I cover that information in the videos.

34. @flaco198111 Do you have the piston lined up correctly? If not it won't' slide over the pin on the back of the pad.

35. damn… sorry about the multiple posts, it gave me an error when I tired to comment but I didn't think it would post the same comment over and over..again.. I apologize.
    Now.. my question….. are the caliper brackets on my car bad? i can get the new pads on, even with the piston all the way back, the caliper brackets have the rubber boots on them, are those parts suppost to move? mine don't move at all, thanks for the help.

36. Thanks for the response… I'm working on the rear brakes on my 94 accord, after I put the new disc and pads, I can't get the caliper back on, the piston is all the way back, but it just won't fit over the rotor and pads, it seems like the pads are too tick or something, any ideas? could it be that I got the wrong pads? they look exactly the same as the old ones, but I just can get the caliper back on.
    thanks.

37. Thanks for the response… I'm working on the rear brakes on my 94 accord, after I put the new disc and pads, I can't get the caliper back on, the piston is all the way back, but it just won't fit over the rotor and pads, it seems like the pads are too tick or something, any ideas? could it be that I got the wrong pads? they look exactly the same as the old ones, but I just can get the caliper back on.
    thanks.

38. @flaco198111 I don't sell those tools so you'll have to make your own. You are correct that it is recommended that you seat in the new pads, usually about 30 stops from 30mph from what I remember, I probably should mention that at some point, thanks for pointing that out.

39. great videos…. big fan! two questions, how much would you charge me for one of those caliper tools? 🙂
    And the other one….. I watched all your brake videos, and I don't think i seen one on how to bed in the new brakes, that's kind of important on new brakes right?

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