This is (Episode 9) of the #ETCGDadsTruck Series.
Link to (Episode 8): https://youtu.be/kKS6gIVZcek
Episode 10: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKSW2BaUxFk&t=1s
I shot videos of the Rear Suspension Drop, Differential Rebuild, and Rear Disc Brake Conversion on my Dads truck pretty much at the same time. As a result, I wasn’t able to do proper test drives at the end, or during each of the videos I just mentioned.
There were also some other loose ends like my U bolts, and torquing the rear suspension that weren’t covered in the previous videos. Hence the reason I decided to make this video.
So if you had questions about some of the previous videos in the #ETCGDadsTruck video series, this video may help give you some clarity.
Camera: Brian Kast, Eric Cook
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The best place for answers to your automotive questions: http://www.ericthecarguy.com
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Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com
Thanks for watching!
Where I plan to get my driveshaft shortened: http://cincinnatidriveline.com/driveshafts/2685750
U Bolts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GQFE530/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
My Differential: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aub-542022/overview/year/1990/make/chevrolet/model/c1500
My 3:73 Gear Set: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-741001
My Differential Cover: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-8510300nl
Ratech Ring and Pinion Installation Kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-3003k
Truck Axle Bearings (WE60690)(513067): https://www.ebay.com/p/Wheel-Bearing-Rear-BCA-Bearing-WE60690/179139001?iid=311938365287&chn=ps
Axle Seals (F4762N): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Federated-F4762N-CR-16146-Oil-Seal-/172801509640
SSBC Rear Disc Brake Conversion Kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ssb-a126-2/overview/year/1990/make/chevrolet/model/c1500
Russell Steel Braided Brake Lines: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-672340/overview/
RT Side Parking Brake Cable: https://www.1aauto.com/parking-brake-cable-passenger-side-rear/i/1abrc00070?f=762714&y=1990
L Side Parking Brake Cable: https://www.1aauto.com/parking-brake-cable-rear-driver-side/i/1abrc00074?f=762882&y=1990
The Kit I Used: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mmc-33134/overview/year/1990/make/chevrolet/model/c1500/submodel/silverado
Bushing Kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-18107g/overview/make/gmc/model/c15
Drop Shocks: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bel-8535
VHT Chassis Roll Bar Paint: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPAVI4/ref=b2b_gw_d_bia_0_2_p/138-7360854-8240723
#ETCGDadsTruck 4” Rear Suspension Drop (Part 1): https://youtu.be/VNnEiIoGpwE
#ETCGDadsTruck 4” Rear Suspension Drop (Part 2): https://youtu.be/63SfLDsdKRs
#ETCGDadsTruck Axle/Differential Rebuild (Part 1): https://youtu.be/F439MFi6qIk
#ETCGDadsTruck Axle/Differential Rebuild (Part 2): https://youtu.be/vkSvYCqrlOI
GMT400 Rear Disc Brake Conversion (Part 1) #ETCGDadsTruck: https://youtu.be/DgiUePQT8LU
GMT400 Rear Disc Brake Conversion (Part 2) #ETCGDadsTruck: https://youtu.be/kKS6gIVZcek
ETCG Gets a Truck: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cblScHKnHc&t=12s
#ETCGDadsTruck Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCepnacqRuI&list=PLSzhQ6St-ov1g_GML2aVq6EN-_ShJ9G2o
**Answers to your automotive questions found here: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq
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50 thoughts on “Test Drive & Tying Up Loose Ends #ETCGDadsTruck”
IF YOU PUT WEDGES UNDER THE LEAF SPRINGS TILTING THE NOSE OF THE DIFF DOWN THE DRIVE SHAFT WILL HAVE MORE ROOM
I know that it is a different year but I have a 2007 Silverado 4×4 and I did a 5/7 drop and have no issues with the drive shaft at all and I did my drop 2 years ago
Who else is seeing if there drive shaft comes out?I am.LOL
I had one of those trucks. I had air ride put on it. Looked and performed amazing.
Yes, I'm a little late to the party, but thanks Eric! I have a high-mileage '94 1/2 Ton 2WD Suburban and a lot of this content is EXTREMELY relevant to me! On my TO-DO list is some type of locker, radio upgrade with rear camera for backing up to trailers, and rear disc brakes w/ ABS delete (the ABS comes in STUPID early and is going to get me injured if I don't get rid of it!). Will be becoming a website member very soon!
i have a slammed 04 cat eye and my driveshaft still comes out fine. how? idk but it does lol. just rebuild my rear end as well with 3.73s so we shall see how it sounds in a day or so
Your rim cap takes up that spacer size 18:40
Love your videos
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Thanks for all the information, my son has his Grandpa's old 98 Chevy and is experiencing the soft brake pedal, thanks for the help!👍👍
the truck looks good
I had the same issue when i lowered my last s10 reg cab short bed. Lowered the rear 3 inches. Drive shaft was too long afterwards.
Lowered my 96' single cab short box, just like your's 6 inches. Stock drive shaft.
You seem really bummed about the difference between 3" and 4"
Did not read all comments but your truck originally came with a manual transmission
did it not ?
Maybe that manual trans tailstock is longer than the auto trans now in ?
I know you are doing the trans et already but if someone happens on this. Short term you could have drilled new guide holes on the spring perches. This would move your axel back giving you room for the stock driveshaft. Though it messes with your tires being centered in the wheel wells. In fact alot of aftermarket perches will have 3 holes out of the box intended for centering the wheels in the arches.
i have a 2/4 mcgaughys kit on my 94 c1500. the drive shaft still comes on and off without any issues.not sure what drive shaft you have on that truck , but it cant be the original.
Hey EricTheCarGuy I really wish you can respond but I want to tell you that because I am in college for mechanical engineering and learning physics I might know some stuff. To the point I want to say that forces and acceleration will wear if the driveshaft is too long and not only that force from the long driveshaft will impact the transmission and the thrust bearings but it will tear up your pinion gear because it will be too far forward because there are different types of stresses there are rotational stresses and forward and backward stresses when your engine is running plus an engine has pulses of power and no internal combustion engine has a smooth rotational power because the piston and the crankshafts are moving up and down,left and right and rotational force causes wear and having a smaller yoke and a shorter driveshaft will help and if you don't have the correct clearance, you'll damage the transmission and the rear differential. Your truck will probably settle down to the advertised 4" drop, but not until you install the correct length driveshaft. At the moment, the truck is binding do to the improper length. This will cause more twisting force and overload more stress on parts and I think you should get a lighter driveshaft NOT just for performance but it will reduce load on your differential and transmission when driving because when you drive down the road it requires 2-5mph more to get up a hill than it does with your current driveshaft and having more weight and I say having a thinner shim NOT a thicker shim will do the trick because of the movement the mechanical parts and that there might be more force and there are more loads constraining Also make sure you lubricate the bearings with grease so no wear or friction stress is on those bearings…Bearings are designed to take a stationary object like the case of a differential and the pinion shaft and reduce friction loads and constraints I also think your driveshaft is NOT just your problem it is your gear upgrade and your transmission because there are stresses like centrifugal force,frictional force,thrust bearing forces that cause your drive-train to be out of balance. Also having a engine that has 3000 rpm and 1 revolution of a pinion gear is 15 teeth on the pinion gear and 34 teeth on the ring gear that would be harmful to your drive-train to work harder to get up to 10mph than to because of the extra 0.0003 thousandths of an ounce everytihng has to be to a science to know the weight,speeds,forces and frictions. Also another helpful thought is have your fairmount on the lift and look how that is setup Your truck is designed to have very precise measurements and when you modify the truck you can add more centrifugal torque stresses. Torque is rotational or twisting force and too much torque with a long driveshaft and also forces that push one way and another way cause that noise during the test drive and also stresses from the angle causes wear I am sorry that this is a long comment but I wanted to help Thank you 🙂
Hi there, I've been following you for a while. I respect your works. After I watch this video, I have a question about a noise coming from when you on course. I'm from Australia and I drive 2000 Jeep WJ. I haven't had that noise before ever, suddenly 3-4 months ago I recognise that noise coming from somewhere when I let gas go. Did you find out what the problem was? What would your opinion be in this situation? Thanks
As tight as that drive shaft is with the rear suspension fully decompressed in the air i wouldn't doubt it if it's holding the back of the truck up when u set it down. Take the shaft out and measure the rear ride height again for kicks, it might be 4 inches lower lol.
I'm not a mechanic but from the bottom view at 12:46 it looks like the shaft moves a little at the rear end before the clunk. Is that to much gear lash? Not sure if that is the right term.
with the rear end hanging you will not be able to remove the DS. if you let the truck on the ground you should be able to remove it. it will be tight. once you do the pinion angle correction. about 4 degrees negative it will be easier to remove it. I believe the 4l60e is the same overall length as your 4l60 you need to shorten the DS, like you said about 1". I really enjoyed watching you do some Hot Rodding Dads truck.
Conversion Brake System
So far….Episode 9….if I wanted to do this to my `91…no sponsors….$3,915 and change(plus tax and shipping)…trucks not worth that much….I`ll bet the engine work is gonna have a killer bill.
great content! looks to me like the output shaft bottomed out in the slip yoke has some effect on the suspension drop from lowering down all the way due to the mechanical interference once the truck is even lowered onto the ground and the driveshaft is dead bottomed with the trans right off the bat. also those center caps look to have a taper and the exact same inner diameter of the plastic rings that you have so i would assume the center caps are hub centric so to speak when you mount up the wheels.
Just shorten it 2 inches that 1/4 of an inch is not going to make the difference between working and catastrophic failure if so then whew talk about tight tolerances
So when you let the truck down the driveshaft is not going to be too long and be in a bind ? I've just never seen anyone have to do that loosen the whole rear end up to get the driveshaft in it was bottomed out in the transmission too I think it's too long but I may be wrong
I dont remember what gear brand you used, But I just had the gears and a limited slip put in one of our channel projects the DR Nova using a certain companies house brand gears. I've been using the same rear end guy for years and he's always done perfect setting everything up but on this job he had issues. paint pattern was perfect, backlash right in the middle, and for some reason we're still getting gear whine on decel. After a recent trip to the track it has gotten louder and we're tearing into it this weekend but my rearend guy is blaming the cheap gears saying the cut may be off somehow. This was the first time I've used offbrand gears and also the first time I've had this issue with any of our channel projects so I'm leaning toward replacing with the usual Richmond gears.
I've never had an issue getting the driveshaft out after lowering any of my trucks or cars.
People lowering trucks smh
just now getting to watching this series. The driveshaft being too long is likely due to the fact that it's lowered WITH a non-stock transmission. The manual trans probably had a shorter tail-shaft. Not so much so that the trans conversion had a problem, but add to it the shorter distance with lowering and the drive shaft is too long. Or maybe when the auto trans was put in they had a custom driveshaft length made then.
I have A 93 Yukon 4×4 that i did a ls swap on also updated to the two piece 4L65E . It now has a bit of a vibration or shutter on the initial take off. Do you think that the pinion angle could cause this shutter? Thanks
What did you do about your ring and pinion noise?
besides my comments,good honest vids,.great..+++.
350,junk engine..010 block,then speed shop..
you want a car to go,cheap.12.1 comp,rv cam,lpg.love my bronco.351/302 heads.ausie heads,you never got them….suck….no speed shop here.as chevs need…
no way would i of fitted that shaft,it needs to be 3" shorter.2-3".you only need 1.5" in the box….!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.unless its a stupid design with a bearing support in the tail housing it needs to sit in..i must say,that chev looks like a box,no style.boring,as chevs are..
that shaft it your noise,harmonics.too long.
shaft too long,should be measured on ground,with an inch or so slack to box.you could of blocked the diff 2". with those u bolts.higher = better.
Great job. You can get black foam back headliner at Michaels crafts.
I got a 91 shortbed bud. Its c notched and axle flipped for 7" drop in the back. Still using my unmodified driveshaft and not too long ago I took it out as I'm going 4 link. Came out just fine.
drive shaft shortening? oh no. x]
before 5:48 did the truck shake a bit on that lift? If you dont already you should get a secondary support for vehicles on the left that might be longer or have a weird weight distribution
Cant wait to get that new brake conversion kit, it sounds like a jet engine under the bed thanks!!!!!
18:47 my 96 Town Car had aluminum wheels like that. Was scared of tire shops for this reason. They've already messed up lugnuts on my Grand Marquis by starting them with the air gun, stripping almost every one 2-3 threads in.
My cars now have aluminum rims that sit on the hub, so I make sure they have anti-seize on the mating surfaces so I don't get stuck somewhere with a flat I can't remove
Yes Eric you are the Master Troubleshooter ! Good Job!
Turn your springs around. When you installed the lowering kit you somehow reversed the springs. The center locating pin is not dead center in the leafs moving your axle housing more forward causing your driveshaft yoke to bottom out in the transmission.
Dont make any descisions when your entire suspension is hanging from a 2 post lift. When it is setting on the ground your rear should be at the same angle as your trans so that your universal bearings are moving back and fourth enough that the needle bearings do not flatten out or cause harmonic sounds in your truck. you should just be able to remove the driveshaft when the truck is setting on the ground. Shortening things so your can remove it when your hanging the suspension in the air is not the best situation as you only live in that position when you are doing some dukes of hazard bridge jumping for a second or two. if you shorten the driveshaft too much, the transmission rear output shaft bearing sleeve will wear more, and cause vibration problems. I have live through this in the past.
Yeah I can remove my drive shaft no problem I have a 96 GMC Sierra and I have a 5/6 drop
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