I’ve done a lot of brake jobs in my career, and I didn’t always perform this procedure, but I’ve come to find it makes for the best brake job ever. If you want to know how to make your brakes stop better than ever, watch this video!
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Useful info on solving brake problems: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems
Torquing Wheels and Why it is Important: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DA4ug4gHccM&t=10s
Front Disc Brakes and How To Replace Them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAviOGXzEUk
How To Replace Rear Disc Brakes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kf8C4Qxu-A
How To Replace Brake Fluid By Yourself: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5O_pbC8R2E
How To Replace Drum Brake Shoes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCpCkun2qxA
How To Diagnose and Replace a Bad Caliper: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_UqTgYgd0Mk
Do Steel Braided Brake Lines Help You Stop Better?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hwJWSe2huc&t=2s
Replacing Rotors With Tapered Roller Bearings: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ccsbu2hT0MI
Brake Shim Fail: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsaEtMaW6Qw
How To Replace a Master Cylinder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trotrlIG2sk
Mini Cooper Parking Brake Cable Replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5-dfMVqkhk&t=4s
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35 thoughts on “The Most Important Part of a Brake Job!”
Can you do it to fresh front brakes then later replace the rears and bed the rears in? Or should you just do all 4 at the same time?
I did this instinctively without giving it a second thought after my garage replaced the discs and pads. I just thought it made sense.
According to EBC (and, if you look at the process, I think logically it makes sense) one should take the first few hundred miles relatively easy to make sure you're bedding the full pad to the disc.
The new pads I bought say to do this, from 60km/h down to 10km/h using light to moderate pedal effort. To be performed at least 10 times BUT allowing 400m between cycles (presumably to cool off). Seems to be the same 'bedding in' procedure you're describing here but not quite as harsh 🙂
Is it ever too late to do this? I did my brakes 3 years ago and haven’t ever hard stopped like this.
How about Carbon Ceramic Brakes? do you use the same burnishing procedure ?
Do i need burnishing on a used rotor new pads?
but wouldn't that cause heat spots on the rotors?
Is this done with drums?
Can you burnish the brakes while the car is still lifted up so you can save your tires
We built about 6 komatsu 830 haul trucks last year. I got to do brake burnishing on it . Haha it’s pretty fun. We had to get those brakes pretty much blue. Procedure was to hold the brake pedal and drive at the same time. It took about 1 hour of that to get those brakes to temperature. Took 4 of us to do the job. I drove, 1 guy on the blocking the road. 2 guys checking brake temperatures one guy signalling me because we had to do it on a narrow haul road.
I think if someone owns a BMW Mini, they just hope the car starts every morning.
More great advice from the master. Gotta love ETCG.
You may end up with warped rotors getting them that hot.
OK Eric I replaced my front brake pads on a 20 year truck and since I had it up on jack stands I decided to flush out all my brake fluid so not thinking I opened up all my bleeder valves and drained the old fluid out. I have bleed my own brakes my whole life with little or no problem. However, this time after filling the master up with new fluid I cannot get any brake pressure no matter what I do. The brakes and master cylinder were working fine before I started this job so a little confused. If I left the cap to the master off for several hours do you think enough moisture would get into it to ruin the seals.
What's your take on slotted and drilled rotors?
i see that red Legend Coupe in the shop! my favorite of all my Acuras, lol…mines is white
Time for me to bed those brakes
Gotta add braided brake lines to my summer car service.
The packet of grease, is that for the pads or the rotors? I put it on the pads
I had carbon fiber front pads put on my Sentra…I love them…however…I needed to break the brakes in…yup…very essential that getting those pads hot a few times is really important for the disc pads to LAST!!!
Why didn't he mention disc thickness variation, and the reason you don't come to a full stop when bedding in the brakes.
Should also point out that bedding in new brakes can stink to high heaven. Also, if you go into brake fad in less than a half a dozen stops, you have really cheap pads.
One more thing. After heating things up to get friction material transfer and outgassing – do NOT come to a complete stop until things cool down quite a bit – try driving for a while without full stops.
You will imprint the rotor with the hot pad creating a super thin low spot but not so thin that you can't feel it through the pedal. The higher performance your brakes the more critical. A 35 year old F150 PROBABLY won't feel it. A modern performance car, yes – a big deal.
Ok good. Seriously. But: The missing link. NOT ONE manufacturer that I have seen, discusses WHEN to perform this procedure. and I have been researching this for MONTHS. What I mean by "when" is; how much gently smoothing of the rotors do you do before bedding in/Burnishing/Breaking in. I WILL say, definitively that going out and doing this on rough, newly purchased, double ground (both directions) rotors or freshly cut rotors will TEAR you pads the F UP. SOME amount of gently breaking over SOME miles or SOME time frame is required FIRST. This procedure is all about slowly bringing up the temps of the pads'rotors to do some material transfer and to mate the parts. But it is NOT something you do 5 minutes after jacking the car down with all fresh parts in place,
No matter how much research I conduct with both products and customer service of auto service repair shops, I always feel burned by the product or the service and often it feels like both burn me. I only have 91,000 miles on my 2005 GMC Sierra: I was told by a local garage [Florida] that I need a complete brake job; I only added approximately 20,000 miles since May 2013 [in Virginia] the last major brake job: I am currently on my 3rd set of disc brakes on the front and 2nd set of drums in the rear. Once again I am seeking honest professional help; however, I am believing that is only a dream!
This is also a great way to warp brand new rotors if you get them too hot…i think driving and stopping normally is enough to bed then in
Or you could press the brake pedal slightly while giving it some gas to maintain constant speed while the brakes are engaged. It's quicker and more comfortable. Kinda like rally mode…
This procedure is especially important for a set of performance pads. My Hawk HPS pads felt like utter junk compared to the OE pads after installing them. They had no bite and were extremely noisy. After the procedure, the brakes grabbed really well and made much less noise (even when cold).
Started doing this way before I heard it was the way.. Do the bedding on the way out from the shop, cool down on the way back. Never come to a complete stop when brakes are heated up, and fer godssakes don't set the emergency brake when hot… Michael in Colorado.
Love your videos bro always FANTASTIC.
TIME 1:50– 2:03
Where are the wheel studs..? for the rotors and the wheel to sit on?
does that have a specific name or term??
@ EricTheCarGuy for a 2003-2007 Honda Accord that recently had the front brakes & rotors replaced; There was a squealing noise (metal on metal) coming from the front driver side wheel while driving as if some metal type object was stuck by the rotor/brakes, then it went away & it had a faint but noticeable smell of burnt metal once parked. I took it to a Honda Dealership & of course when I took it there it wasn't replicating the issue, they checked it out & said they found nothing. It did it again & this time was was making a METAL GRINDING noise & was able to show them (Honda) when I took it there again, they re-diagnosed it & said there was a brake caliper BOLT on the upper inside that had come LOOSE because they did NOT TORQUE it all the way according to them, they also replaced the front driver's side BRAKE CALIPER & torqued the inner bolt they referenced to be tight/secured. After everything seems fine for a few months now & one day I heard a squealing noise (no metal grinding noise just squealing) while turning the car left momentarily then the sound went away & when I parked shortly thereafter there was no slight burning metal smell. Fast forward approximately two months after that & there is still no noise or any noticeable issues (Drove in the Colorado Mountain highways, etc.) Do you think everything will stay fine with this issue or is there any cause for concern from that very brief metal screetching sound that I heard a few months ago? If it happens again I'll take it in again to be checked out & if it does happen what could be the problem? (Not lubricated properly? If the 'Inner upper Caliper bolt is loose/needs to be Torqued again then what is that an indication of?). Any chance you could do a video demostration (and tag me) of this showing how that Upper-Inner Caliper brake bolt should be Torqued & if it's not torqued properly how it effects the metal grinding/noise and pointing out how the brakes/caliper/rotors should be properly lubricated in case some how they missed that step or didn't grease it properly. Any recommendations on a mechanic shop that you would recommend around DENVER, CO? Where are you located? Thank You
I just did a brakes job today only the front because my rear are drums, well anyway how do you adjust the drums brakes
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