Trust me folks, there was no saving the OG cable. For those that said they could have soldered on a new end for $15 you’re full of dookie. It aint happenin’….
Want to support us AND get early access to the SMA videos as they are uploaded? Consider joining the SMA “YouTube Membership” by clicking here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtAGzm9e_liY7ko1PBhzTHA/join
You are also able to support us on Patreon if you feel inclined to do so by clicking here: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
CHECK OUT OUR “SMA SWAG” STORE! Go on Teespring and get your very own SMA merch! https://teespring.com/stores/the-sma-store
If you don’t like Patreon feel free to use the “PayPal Me” link: https://www.paypal.me/SouthMainAuto
The South Main Auto Amazon Store: https://www.amazon.com/shop/southmainautorepairavoca
AES Wave Automotive Diagnostic Tools: https://www.aeswave.com/cart.php?m=affiliate_go&affiliateID=2525b91fc8e906e8215984074c9d9e8f&go=https://www.aeswave.com/Miscellaneous-p9347.html
Thank you so much for the support!
–Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don’t know where to send it?
Just ship it here:
South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
Sure you could fix it by taking the loom apart and replacing the whole length of cable and re tape and wrap the loom. I would at home if i was fixing it myself and not paying someone hourly but if your paying labour definitely more cost effective to just bin it and replace the assembly.
🤔
Replace another fifty dollar harness There's a lot cheaper than fixing that one
My right thumb looks like your left…using phosphoric acid to remove rust from my Datsun truck got my nail….it's "almost" back now after over a year of weirdness…wear gloves, guys
1:10 That's what SHE said
and this is why i still to this day come to this channel to continue learning to become a better tech, i appreciate you putting your experience and skill into videos for the younger generations like my self! never stop please!
great response Eric.
i remember u taking about ordering bulk shrinkwrap tubing from a website, I ordered along time ago based on your suggestion. whats the website?
Any idea why it corrodes so badly? That's about terrible.
It was fortunate that you could still buy a replacement cable at a fair price for the Honda. On some older vehicles the cost of an OEM replacement cable assembly is much too high. So you have to disassemble the existing harness and replace the large cables. I have a complete wire line to make custom battery, alternator, starter and large circuit cables.
For custom wiring I replace the large cables point-to-point without any splices, then I reassemble to factory spec. When I replace the BAT+ cabling I find that many times I also have to replace the BAT- cables. BAT- many times has three circuits; block starter /charger return, power distribution ground and chassis ground.
If you live in the salt belt, don't make the mistake the OEM made when making cables yourself. The error the Honda made was to have the battery connection a crimped connection on stranded bare copper cable exposed to the under-hood salt spray in the winter. The salt spray finds its way into any unsealed connection. The connection should be a compression connection which is then sealed with dual wall heat shrink. You have to seal the connection or the salt spray will wick down the cable like Eric demonstrated in the video.
The automotive OEMs know about the problems with salt spray and cable corrosion, but never seem to fix the problem.
Seal electrical terminals where possible, use products like Grote Ultra Seal and Noco NCP2 for battery terminals.
For automotive (cars not trucks) the large power cabling is usually AWG 8, 6, 4, or 2. You basically have three common choices for wiring, Automotive Battery SGX cable, welding cable and marine cable. I consider the High Temperature High Flexibility Marine fine stranding tin plated copper wire the most corrosion resistant.
If you put a high performance geared starter on the vehicle and run large power cables (2 AWG if battery under hood, 1AWG if in the trunk) with all the connections clean with a fully charged battery (AGM starting) the way the vehicle starts can be very impressive when compared to the cranking of the OEM system. Just making the change from 4 AWG to 2 AWG for the starter feed and block return for a battery under hood application can have a noticeable change in cranking speed and engine starting.
Scotty would have saved it.
Some people deserve to be ignored. It's your shop and your reputation, handle them as you see fit.
Why respond to the dingdong?
Those that have never lived in a salt plagued Winter environment will never understand salt aided corrosion.
I wonder how many people thought that silver looking cable was pre-tinned copper? Dude, that is cheap car based power cables, not some high end marine grade power cables that the entire thing is tinned.
I don't understand people! What is wrong with those that come on here and say "No… he's scaming … just fix the orignal part!? Jack Holes! Mind your own damn business and stick to drinking your dented can of warm Shlitz the ole-lady dropped for you! Eric… Where's the kitty? I think it needed a cat-scan! LOL
$160 bux aint shieeet! I am known to get down with the sprayfoam fixits, but if I am paying shop rates, put new parts in
You mentioned that you used to be a dedicated Chevrolet man but you didn't say what you switched to???
What’s wrong with ppl
You’re definitely an automotive college professor Eric! Kudos to you.
Experience is the BEST teacher of all! Add to that honesty and integrity and you have a lethal combination. Give it to 'em Eric! Thanks for your excellent teaching videos, laced with humor and kindness! SMA is not just an automotive diagnostic/repair channel. Between you and Mrs O it is a family channel. You folks are real..keep up the excellent work Mr and Mrs O!!
Sometimes you just have to show the knowitalls.
Well said. The armchair wana bee's just don't get it !!
I agree with everything you said and demonstrated that, essentially, the battery acid or corrosion wicks up the wire.
Im not sure what your take is on my remedy when a new harness is cost prohibited or time-consuming. I use 1/0 minimum welding cable, which I crimp on my lugs. I'll run the new wire along the harness from end to end. I've seen a few of the Honda's get corrosion on the alternator lead.
Anyway I agree if you can replace the harness with the original one thats the way to go but correcting the cause of the corrosion first. I didn't see the first video but I'm sure you did just that! I just wanted to get your input on a technique that ive used for the last decade.
I will say in my experience the ones that have opinions on how yo do things are also the ones that go to the dealer. Ive asked people several questions in the past and the same answer comes back “ill have to ask my dealer “. Or i dont do my own work.
YOU CAN DO ONLY ONE THING. DO RIGHT NEVER LISTEN TO A HOLES who just post comment and do everthing wrong
Green can not be fix and overheat cables can even looks like broken(high resistance)
Gotta love that salt…
I would be angry if the mechanic didn't replace the harness tbh.
That was OEM Honda-white magic powder……
Amen. The less experienced will always be a source of doubting Thomases! Now that they have seen, hopefully they will believe. God Bless you and yours Eric!
Idiots will be idiots, and those idiots who think they could have saved that are the worst kind of idiot because they are so intellectually challenged that they don't know they are intellectually challenged and actually believe their own B.S.
Thanks for the heads up. Time is money and instead of messing around with a rusty cable, just pay up and put in a new cable and have peace of mind. I mean how long did the cable take to get that far, install the new one and you will have years of peace of mind.
Don't let the neck beards, or as you put it armchair experts waste your time. They're idiots with no personal experience. By technicality they're always right…. Now they're gonna say oh well then replace that single wire in the harness, not realizing that it's cheaper but only for you since your time costs the customer money and putting that time into it is going to cost more than an hour labor putting a new wire or soldering a whip on that wire.