In this video I have a look at a customer’s 2006 Honda Accord that was towed in with a no crank condition. You can hear the starter solenoid clicking as soon as you turn the key and visual inspection everything looks good and the battery is new. Sounds like a classic case of the bad starter to me. Or is it….
-Enjoy!
Watch Part II Here – https://youtu.be/4UL2MBE8crg
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Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
I've been working on cars as a diy for years and ive never tried that. Thank you eric
No smokin in the shop, son.
How do you jump the starter at 2:36 ? Which pin on the connector do you jump to 12v?
exact same thing happened to my accord. why do the cable corrode upwards onto itself into the cable sheathing?
Another SMA pro diagnostic
I understand the light going out indicating voltage drop, but why is there already power at the starter (even if only enough for a test light) before the solenoid is ever energized? Shouldn't it be a totally open circuit until the solenoid closes it?
Any aftermarket connections are top of my list had a similar problem as this with a crappy aftermarket battery connection. Thus I always check the connections to battery.
Thermal Imager would pinpoint the voltage drop, and the length potentially.
Greatest on YouTube
I suspect my CHRYSLER, (yes, I know…), has an earth side voltage drop – it craps out intermittently, as in won't crank, even with a fully charged battery.
I've got the clickety-click going on, but the car had been sitting in a damp place for 10-12 months.
So, in theory, I should be able to use a jumper lead to bypass the existing earth cable and get some action?
I had, (oddly), a Honda Accord that was flood-damaged, and it was riddled with bad earths – With a meter, what should I expect to see if I set it to ohms? I'd assume zero from one end of the earth cable to the body mount? Assuming there's no earth cable problem, that is.
I sure as shit don't want to replace the starter on THAT thing.
I learned to always wait before changing parts to check cables and connection and as you mentioned voltage drop test is a first step
Do you ever use parts from ROCK AUTO?
Are you really short? Is everything really BIG for you?
A mechanic once told me for every foot of corrosion you could lose about 10 volts .
This is why I always do a full visual inspection of the problem area before beginning my diagnosis, would have saved so much time here. Never don't untape the harness first.
Step 1, have easy access to starter connectors to do this kind of test, without having to lift the car running a whole bunch of wires just to do the test.. sometimes it's easier to just replace the dang starter and if it doesn't work then you check the wires, peace! 😁
I would have checked that before pulling the manifold. (ha ha – just had to say it)
Gut feeling initially was due to the history. It's been sitting. Do starters generally go bad from sitting? I mean unless it started its last before hibernating. All great stuff. Never assume.
Let her sizzle baby😂😂
Working for Ford has taught me to rely on voltage drop testing like my life depends on it. I rarely see bad starters on Fords. Hell, I replace BCM’s much more often.
Hey Eric, long time casual viewer here. What brand is your 500mA test light? I had to rewind, I almost didn’t believe my ears. I’d love to find a test light with that kind of draw!
I would've checked that. It's been changed.
I found when a honda starter starts to go it cranks slower. Ive rebuilt them and the brushs are almost gone. Good catch Eric
I had the exact same problem after I replaced the connection on my old F-150 and I even forgot to check it when it wouldn't crank. I ended up cutting out the junk crimp connection and a little wired and got some good marine (I live 30 miles from the GOM) solder lugs and a good lead terminal. Been way better ever since.
Good one Eric!
Nice job catching that. I would have replaced the starter .
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
After watching this I decided to a positive cable on a riding mower. Owner had ignored corrosion at battery terminal. I decided to cut back the insulation. I was amazed at how far down the cable was corroded.
Voltage dropped like it was hot…See what I did there?!
😎
i was taught circuit high voltage means circuit has a high resistance. circuit low voltage means low resistance
Would it be a valid test to run a test light from battery post to starter batt bolt? In a good system, the light should not illuminate, right? In this car, the light would illuminate when the starter is activated, true?
The next no start job …….. ok guys we are going to start with unwrap the battery connections to …….
"let her sizzle baby "
Between Eric O. and @RainmanRaysRepairs, I've learned the value of checking power and grounds thoroughly!
Very grateful to both for sharing their work and knowledge online!
Thank you for another Great video. Cheers
Letting the smoke out
I'll definitely be checking closer for that now! Especially suspect aftermarket cable ends. School is in session as always! 🏫 good stuff
I have always said, you can have the best and/or most expensive battery on the market, but if you don’t have good connections, it ain’t worth a bottle of horse piss.
5:50 OK. Please confirm. So when you got the voltage drop, the starter acted as ground to get battery voltage?
Can you make a playlist of repairs that were extra difficult in diagnosis? Like the ones where the vehicle has been to the other shops and finally came to you.
I used to work for a parts store. Had a guy who bought a starter from me after I tested his old starter and found it was good . He came back later the same day and said it was a bad starter. So I gave him another one, and suggested he replace his cables. He said they were fine. The bad starter tested good as well. He came back the next day and demanded a new starter again. I said if the starter tested good again, he has to buy a set of cables before I’ll exchange another part. He reluctantly agreed and after installing the cables, he called me to tell me I was right about the cables, and apologized for being so rude to me. If there’s a problem with a new part, it’s probably something else causing the problem, not the new part.
DIY only saves you money if you’re covering all the bases and doing it right.
Yep… That was enjoyable
Lol, I actually just did this job about 3weeks ago. I actually started with the cable because it wasn't hidden by tape but just ended up finding out the starter had gone bad too once I had fixed the battery cable.
My daughter's Acura RDX had a problem at the same terminal/junction. A whole lot of wire joining there. I had to remake the connection – fortunately I had good cables.
Voltage drop can trick anyone when its hidden or even in plain view. So many times a headlamp was dim for no reason and the connection looked normal,,, yet she was sizzling with heat from high resistance. A simple removal and cleaning or fix of the bad terminal and it was good again. Good test there Eric using the meter for a confirmed voltage drop.
Nice one