Back to Pt1! Engine Choking to DEATH! Losing Power! Hyundai https://youtu.be/QktPK9cp0Tw
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Motor Repair
I squirt CRC, with PEA in it throug the throttle body every 10 thousand miles in hope of keeping the top of the intake valves clean. Guess time will tell. I let it soak for a half an hour. Then drive it a bit. It will smoke a bit burning it off. Then I change the oil with Penzoil ultra platinum synthetic and a Hyunda oil filter.
Hood open door open
18:07 connector near cylinder 4 black one you forgot that one and it looks like in the video you pushed the intake manifold on it.
ðŸ‘
You really lucked out if it is indeed the sensor. After Hyndai's GDI engines began grenading themselves, they upgraded software on these vehicles to detect the knock and reduced the engine output so it doesn't destroy itself. After the vehicle in the safe mode it's really two options: bad sensor (unlikely), or new engine (likely). You can clear the code but it will return after awhile and the car will be in the safe mode again.
If knock sensor was bad, that would most likely cause it to go into limp mode, causing the lose of power.
What was the code ? P1326 ?
Have you ever looked into a walnut shell grit blasting attachment?
So in all honesty, it just needed an induction service? The new intake manifold was just a bonus?
If the US was a real country who cares about their citizens they would hv banned Hyundai from selling anything here.
Another quality Hyundai repair, always great to see owners being able to get honest service for their cars
Ray , i have i120 Hyundai it stalled on stop sign and robot .And it loose power and misfire
Is the old manifold used for remanufacture or can it be fixed?
Wouldn't ba dedicated cave cleaner product have been a better choice for a carbon removal spray?
If you had to take off the intake manifold why not walnut blast the valves?
my bsd light is on even both shops say they dont have the software. wtf. nobody wrecks hyundias i guess.
Hi does that car used to throw a little bit of smoke because of the clogged intake?
My brother replaced the knock sensor in my sonata. And it still goes only 2k rpms. I don't know shit about cars, but would like to know more
I know that everybody complains about Sonata and there are many issues – but I think that most of them are manufacture-related (that instance they assembled engines without cleaning them properly etc.) than of the design itself. Mine, a 2011, has over 125,000 miles (first 25K were done as a rental) and it runs great – kept cleaning the valves with GDI, doing proper maintenance in time, install a catch-can. Was checking the clip because next year I want to cleanup the carbon buildup (CRC GDI cleaner can only do so much) and it is a great tutorial what is to be done.
Im changing the intake on my 2016 tomorrow. This video was helpful.
You guys need one of those intake port cleaning setups.
never envountered cars with such deep problems…
This might be my problem lets hopeee
How much was that intake assembly??
Hey man, great video! Liked and subbed!
Question though: Do you think using ATS 505 CRF (fuel system cleaner) and ATS 505 CRO (oil treatment cleaner) cleaners (if you're familiar with them) would help with the issues present in this car?
He should of cleaned the valves it will be back once it blows a chunk of debris and breaks a valve on the exhaust side
Great video Ray. Full of useful information, tricks to get certain things done and entertainment that goes along with the love for the work that you do. With that being said, I'll get to my dilemma I'm having just recently with my 2016 Hyundai Sonata base model 2.4. Hopefully you can reply or someone can with some much needed answers. I'm no mechanic by any means but I am mechanical inclined and can do some stuff and need help here. I've changed the sark plugs in my car for a 2nd time in 4 months. Car initially was hesitant and feeling like wanting to die out with shaking at red lights and with acceleration. First time it happened, I changed plugs immediately and problem solved. Then started noticing oil consumption and bad gas mileage. A few months later the poor power with acceleration and shaking of the vehicle is back again while driving at about 45mph and while trying to hit the gas and accelerate to get enough movement to get off the road, the dash lights up abd the engine shuts off. Get it towed back to my garage and now the car won't start after changing plugs again with no visible oil leaks under the vehicle, noticed a little oil residue on the plugs but nothing on the coil pack or inside the spark plug well. I've ordered a new valve cover gasket to replace what I'm hoping is the reason for oil shorting my plugs but now I have this no start happening since engine cutting out on me. Ordered a new crankshaft position sensor in hopes that it could be just that which failed and causing the no start. Starter passed the bench test. Car cranks and wants to turn over but doesn't. Then it just sounds like it resets in the computer and then I get no turn or crank at all. I eould like to turn the crankshaft to see if the engine is seized but couldn't really catch how you did it in this video as it was in fast speed. Not really sure what tools I need to get on the crankshaft to turn by hand as it's a really tight and confined space. I really appreciate any reply and help at this point as I'm just lost without my car and stuck at a crossroads. Thank you for any replies in advance and keep up the great work and videos. My engine has never been without oil either. I've always taken care of the maintenance just for reference.
Recovery great 🎉🎉
REALLY wishing you were closer to me. I have a Focus with almost 93K miles, really afraid of what I'll find when I get around to popping the intake off.
More junk engineering at its best. Great videoðŸ‘by the way.