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Come along as I have a look at a customers 2015 Ford F-150 that came in with the entire bank 2 of the engine misfiring and the truck would barley stay running. It ends up being a no parts required fix.
-Enjoy!

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46 thoughts on “Ford F-150 5.0 Coyote: Cam Timing Codes

  1. That oil looked way too clean for having 4000 miles on it. Especially being conventional. I think it probably burned though some oil, threw the code from thrash in the solenoid, he went to the autozone for a code scan, googled it and saw “low oil” as a cause for the code and dumped some oil into it. Once that didn’t fix it, he threw it in your lap.
    Not that it matters now lol

  2. As a life long Ford guy I will admit that they drop the ball w service recommendations. Maintenance is key. Thin oils run way too long. My 14 3.5 ecoboost has 320000 kilometers and has all original timing chains, phasers, and solenoids. No rattles no timing codes and truck has only ever had amsoil oil and filters.

  3. 5w30 Pennzoil ultra platinum turned off all noises on my 2020 at 30k now . oztuned at 20k after break in with mc 5w20 semi synthetic for 20k changed pcv valve to new style .. now it is worth what I paid for 4 years ago 0 will loss, super quiet and 10r80 uses every gear ..now to change trans oil before 40k

  4. I knew a mechanic from the neighborhood when I was young.
    Everytime I asked him about something on my car, he said…..I got a big hammer! 😂
    BTW….Thank You! I have a 2015 Platinum.
    A bit ago, I plugged in a tool and was looking at live data and saw my timing all over the place! I was freaking out!
    At idle, 5, 7, 10.5, to 16 degrees! But fluctuating back and forth, up and down the whole time?
    When rpms were upped and steady it advanced steady.
    That's how I ended up watching this video.
    I also saw someone elsewhere say that Ford controls the idle with timing?

  5. I have a 2016 XLT 5.0 104kmi and have this same problem but not as bad (rough idle sometimes and stalls at idle when warm). Usually a fresh oil changes fixes it but seems to be getting worse with more miles.
    I assume 2015/2016 is same engine design (Video of solenoids looks like mine).?
    I am guessing I can't use a basic ODB scan tool to check (no check engine light)?
    Would incorrect cam phase cause higher engine temps?
    Could this also cause long crank before start when heat soaked?
    Would be nice to solve this on my own.
    Thanks in advance for any comments.

  6. Just wanted to chime in on this a year later this is a very well broken down video. I’m currently in battles with my 2018 GT ford switched the design after 2018 to only one cam solenoid. I was stuck with the p0017 code and random misfires all on bank 1 I’ll be breaking it down tomorrow to replace the exhaust cam gear and get it retimed hopefully fix my issue !!! Thanks for the informative video though

  7. Just went through a similar situation on my 2016 5.0 f150 at 70,000 miles. Huge headache and then once it's "fixed" you're not sure if it really is or not

  8. My dealership is trying to charge me $2.6k to replace the solenoids but I check online and I can find solenoids for $50-$70 a piece. Can you guys tell me how much it costed to have all 4 solenoids replaced so I have an ideas? That price seems way too much

  9. I think you demagnetized the solenoid which held Debry, allowing it to fall off and now function as it should. in due time, the debris will find its way back and recreate the issue. Just my opinion

  10. Had an 04 Infiniti i35 with the VQ35DE. Had over 200k miles. It would throw vvt codes. Replaced gaskets, opened the sensors and cleaned them. Then changed the oil. Codes stayed off until 3k miles was up and I'd change the oil again and it would automatically clear the codes until it needed an oil change. Ive owned and sold over 200 cars and that was the only one that would throw a code when it was time for an oil change. Pretty sure it was coincidence, but clean fresh oil in the variable valve timing system is KEY

  11. Yup 2015 f 150 v8 yup same thing happen to me 120.000 km they did one side still happen stalling did other side all good they get stuck dirty oil 1800.00 later lol 50.00 each part and labour

  12. The old way of defining cams , opening and closing , were always in crankshaft degrees..etc. What do all the scan tool measure in. An angle is angle. Is the scan data and the desired data for advance and retard in CAMSHAFT degrees, or in Crankshaft degrees ? The scan data never seems clear on this, units matter ! If you install one cam ,off by 1 tooth , and it had 36 teeth, would the scanner report 1/36 times 360= 10 degrees off, or would the scanner say 20 crank degrees off ?
    I just watched a mechanic video last week and 1 cam was offset alot…, but not any of the other 3 cams had a code.. The owner had replaced the cams prior to the mechanic getting a crack at it…The mechanic said it was chain stretch..I think it was a mistake on one cam phaser installation by owner.

  13. Change the oil but synthetic in it full synthetic, go out and drive it. You're probably fine, it's do just fihe's got One of two problems first one is the oil, Then if you have to change the Sensor change it, But I would change the oil first, I've seen this problem before on five later coyobecause people are too cheap to put Is good oil in them

  14. Most likely he's got petroleum oil on it and the oil is too thick to actually operate the cam Phasers since I run on oil pressure, Oil change with a good synthetic like mobile one.
    Five twenty or five thirty and that will probably fix the problem

  15. I have forscan. I don’t know if there’s a way to turn on those solenoids with that and not hooking up wires. Like I said before I’m not very smart with all of this. I’m just asking because I’m very frustrated.

  16. I know this is a dumb question. I’m absolutely no mechanic and am not smart with any of this. However I have a 19 f150 with a 5.0 with the same exact problem. How did you add power to activate the solenoids on my own so I can see if I can do the same thing on my own and then change my oil. Then if that doesn’t fix it I’ll have to get the solenoids replaced.

  17. I have seen That People use petroleum oil, It does not work as well as synthetic when you're dealing with oil pressure sensors and things of this nature of these types of engines, I have one I know mine has 218000 on it. And I've never had a normal pressure problem. Or anything like such as this? Because I use mobile one synthetic, And I have seen other people use petroleum oils, And they have problems. I would just tell the customer to use synthetic oil. And he'll have no more problems. The truck's gonna say 5-20 But I would put 10-30 Mobile one Synthetic

  18. I have a new bronco. I have access to two different owners manuals for my year model. One says engine oil capacity is 6qts the other says 7qts.
    So yeah, Ford sucks at sharing even the most basic info.

  19. I seen another video same issue there was a piece of plastic lodged in the solenoid a piece of the solenoid had broken and jammed the ball bearing and locked it in low position on the rocker.

  20. Your advice to not ever do engine flush is spot on but if anyone want to flush it to kill their engine, destroy the oil pump and regret it then go ahead. Oil and filter change is enough and modern oils are full of additives.

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