In this video we have a look at a Ford F-150 that has an issue with the battery dying overnight. Although I did not see the problem initially, allowing the vehicle to sit for hours paid off. -Enjoy!
If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using “Patreon” to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
THANKS A MILLION!!
–Eric O.
If you don’t like Patreon feel free to use the “PayPal Me” link: https://www.paypal.me/SouthMainAuto
The South Main Auto Amazon Store: https://www.amazon.com/shop/southmainautorepairavoca
AES Wave Automotive Diagnostic Tools: https://www.aeswave.com/cart.php?m=affiliate_go&affiliateID=2525b91fc8e906e8215984074c9d9e8f&go=
WANT AN “SMA” STICKER OF YOUR OWN!?!
Simply send and E-mail to SM*********@*****ok.com including: your shipping address and e-mail address in the text, I in turn will send you a Paypal invoice for $5 each USA or $6 each international. Let me know how many you want and as soon as the Paypal invoice is paid I will ship them out ASAP! Thanks for your support of our channel!!
–Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don’t know where to send it?
Just ship it here:
South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not South Main Auto Repair

*Get All Your PICO Needs Here: https://www.aeswave.com/cart.php?m=affiliate_go&affiliateID=2525b91fc8e906e8215984074c9d9e8f&go=
*Thermometer Used In This Vid: https://amzn.to/2lcFQDR
*True RMS AC/DC Current Mini Clamp: https://amzn.to/2JKf4Sl
Thank you god bless you and your family
My 2004 f150 did the same it was and issue with the relay in the radio. I removed the radio fuse from the fuse box. it solved the problem. Now I have to replace the radio
Yup, mine did the same thing on my 2005 f150 FX4 with the 5.4
I was thinking it was going to be a failure in the PCM, calling for continuous draw. How can you tell the difference without checking the pcm?
So…does anyone know what is built in to alternators to cause problem?
Pulling the fuse on the Microsoft Sync system, which never worked anyway, fixed the parasitic draw on my 2009 truck. It was probably constantly rebooting!
If you are getting your parts from O'Reilly's I think they sale use product an never new parts ..
Fantastic job ðŸ‘
JEEEZZZZ….TALKING TOO MUCH BS..GET TO THE PROBLEM!-!!
Thank you my alternator quit working and it's been drawn off the battery overnight so I'll be replacing it. I also have a leak in my power steering gearbox I'm kind of thinking it's a seal but I guess I got to take it off to find out
Four days ago when I tried to start my Silverado it was dead. Battery voltage was 2.88 V so on Sunday I bought a new battery and installed it. Started up fine but the battery was down from 12.83 V to 12.49. I did let it warm up so on Monday I checked it again. 11.8 V. Whoa something is wrong here. Now I've been thinking for awhile what would go out next on this vehicle and I seemed to think it would be the alternator. So I went to Autozone to try and get it tested. Woman comes out and tells me to take the battery out so they can charge it for an hour in order to test it. Well instead of pulling the battery I went in an bought a reman alternator for over $200. I drove to Walmart and returned the old battery for core charge and then went back home. I checked the battery while it was running and also on the ammeter on the dash which seemed to be a bit high. The highest I saw was like 15 some V so I shut it down. I removed the positive cable to preserve my new battery. Checked the battery today and it was like 13.3 V. Used my multimeter on the new alternator using the diode setting and got good readings. Removed the battery cable and two wire clip from the old one and checked it. Nothing at all both directions. So I've removed the old one and am going to twist out the corroded rusty bracket bushings and clean them then mount and connect up the new alternator. Seems like when the diodes in the alternator go bad they become power hungry and drain the battery. Left it for like 4 days and had no advance warnings. So the total now is about $370 or thereabouts. Guess I should have acted sooner on my premonition.
Nice work
Diode or developing bcm problem is contributing factor, imo.
Hi SMA
Just a tip on alternator parasitic draw. As an electrician by trade diodes and resistors are effected by ambient temperature. Causing strage results when hot and also cold.
had my first call out from my first customer "customer states:battery in car needs to be jumped every other day tested the battery battery good tested the alternator that was good i asked did you get anything aftermarket wired in? they said radio 13 years ago and new break and headlights from amzon that led me to tell him he had parsitic draw from having the lights installed incorrectly and will find where its coming from
right as i had my meter hooked up and about to start pulling fuses i decdied to look at the first thing once more and found a sticker on the battery indicating that is was made november of 2017 and one new battery later no more parasitic draw just a failing battery making it look like parasitic draw
i didnt think it was the battery because they said they just had it replaced and i only wanted to look at it again because the gauges were looking like they were shivvering when i attempted a start up and i relized a weak battery health can cause sypmtoms of paracitic draw and the reason the battery didnt stay charged was latter to be found by me when i realized the door jam wiring was not making a full connection sometimes when you opend and shut the door therfor the car thinks the door is open leading to that reading i originally thought was parasitic draw.
this video helped me realize that something wasnt right!
This is totally fascinating to me! As an actual electrician, we always had data loggers readily available to track issues but we aren’t talking 3 phase or Δ Y’s (240v with a kicker leg). Totally different thought process and I’m loving your videos. I am low voltage certified but we are talking alarms (fire, burglar, intercoms, intercoms and such. I’ve been doing research into AC & DC integration.
I had a Mercedes doing the exact same thing. The actual culprit was the diode block inside the alternator. Replaced it, along with the brush ring, and it was good as new! I believe that when the vehicle cooled, the diode(s) shorted.
My question is did he end up coming back. Mine is doing the same I know its the alt , and I've replaced 3 times now all w/ O'Reilly parts , did you use Motorcraft parts?
There was a small trail of smoke right as you plugged the alternator in after unplugging the first time.
"Welcome everyone to the Self Made Auto channel".
I've mention this a couple times before. Hope you don't get annoyed with me about that Eric. Lol.
Can I check with a basic light from the battery without blowing a fuse and go around pulling fuses ?
If so how do I attach my clamp and point on the light
great tutorial! thanks for posting.
We had a Ford work truck was dead on Mondays only. The plastic tab in the glovebox that shut the light off (normaly on switch) was broke off.
Thanks again.
I’ve watched this video four times. Keeps coming up in my feed.
Wow, awesome video.
So the Alternator was the problem. What turns the alternator coils on? Sounds like a relay to me.. The alternator does not turn itself on.
Also if I may add brother you are the definition of a mechanic… The amount of effort and the amount of knowledge use just dropped in this video is mind-blowing 🤯🤯🤯. Keep up the good work and I will be subscribing to you.
Awesome video brother keep up the good work!! Also if I may ask you a question what type of scanner do you have that thing is so nifty??
I need u for my mechanic,your good my man ðŸ‘
thanx great video i watched all the commercials for compensation ……
Eric you the man . I have a 1999 Ford F-150 . Same thing is happening , however is it possible where the starter could go bad , I had the battery fully charged then turning it over no crank or start and it felt like the starter was pulling to much power from it. So does that mean the alternator drained the battery causing the starter to burn out as well?
So glad you posted this. My truck is doing the exact same thing. I will now check the same thing. Holly COW! Thank you!