In a previous video https://youtu.be/kFWn5k5hXnU I tore apart this F-250 and knocked a new u-joint in it. Easy peasy! Now it is time to toss the axle back in and slap some new brakes on it too.
-Enjoy!
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Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
You dont do the inner axle seals while youve got it all apart?
Would be a real PITA if the diff started leaking not long after and having to do all this again just to change the seals.
I'm positive you didn't put the pressure washers in when you were putting that snap ringing you didn't put no pressure washers in there with that and I could see inside of it when you put the snap ring in it they were in there you need those thrush washers she will definitely be needing that done again again and it won't last
I didn't see you put in the thrush washers there should be two round washers and a hexagon washer you just like put the snap ring all by itself without the touch washers behind it and I'm positive because you would have you put the snap ring in without the pressure washers
I have a 2001 Ford F-350 Super Duty Lariat 6.8 four-wheel drive the Heritage Style anyways I wish I could put pictures on here 100 and something dollars black Iron pipe in a railing and flange and put a cap on it and it works perfect for $15 but anyways I just did mine I just got done with mine about an hour ago was a bitch to get the U-joints off they were seized I actually had take it to a mechanic I took him 2 hours with my help trying to get it off and put the new U-joints on now I got to do the other side I'm dreading it
Facts= junk just accumulates lol
Thank you for sharing a few jokes and your knowledge.
Thanks
I think you missed a step. There is a small hole in the hub assembly carrier, need to make sure it has no debris or grease in it! Its for the vacuum tube that turns on 4X4
Good job . I’m about to try it without the smash tool you had lol
Your the bestâ¤â¤â¤
This was extremely helpful easy to follow!!!! I'm doing my truck soon as well🙌
Hey man it looks fine. Geez this looks like a pack your lunch kind of job. Thx!!
the shifter will be next you'll have to drop the steering wheel to change the shift tube assembly
I’m getting ready to do this U joint replacement job on the passenger side of my 2020 F-250. How much would you say is a round about cost of a mechanic shop were to do this job?
GREAT video! That seal driver mentioned at 1:20, looking for that online and it's over $100 most places. Any other options out there? How necessary is it? I should add I'm pretty new to this level of work and it's not something I'm likely to do very often.
I have always agreed with 99.9% of what you say and do. You have a great educational channel. But this is one time I thought it worth mentioning my thoughts on this job. As a Ford guy I have done way more than my fair share of super duty style brake jobs. I have never seen sillicone last on those caliper pins. It gets cooked and hardens. I have gone to using synthetic grease to get a really high temperature rating. Also in my humble opinion you put WAY too much grease on sliding surfaces, or areas where when heated it can become fluid & migrate to the stopping surface of the rotor. Just my two cents, keep up the great work you’ve been doing.
Thanks for the videos…getting ready to do this same thing on my 2012 f250…I'm no mechanic, but have confidence to try it now, after watching you. Thanks again!
Great video buddy! I got the u joint changed no problem, got the OTC seal install too, no problem. The problem I am having is the hub bottoms out but doesn't seem to have enough room to get the snap ring back in. Maybe 1/8" shy. Any advice would be appreciated.
I can't get the damn snap ring out. Great vidio
Thanks for showing the way to to an not how to ,,,wish you were closer
Good video, not sure I missed it but I’m about to do my u joints, ball joints and replace the wheel bearing assembly. I’m trying to find out what grease I should use when installing the vacuum seal and wheel bearing/manual lock. What grease do you recommend?
Great Videos
I mean a little pressure washing before you bring it to your mechanic goes a long way.
You’re a dang good, excellent mechanic. We need more mechanics like you. Love your channel. I am diy/shade-tree mechanic on my own vehicles and watching your work has helped me to be prepared and work efficient on my own vehicles.