This video is Pt2 of a 2004 F150 after a front suspension replacement due to worn ball joints. In this video we move to the hunter wheel alignment machine to set up the adjustable components to specifications.
The link below will take you to pt1 the repair video.
Back to PT1: Sloppy Suspension! 3 1/2 worn balls | Ford F150 https://youtu.be/J8wvXx-JIxM
Detailed Wheel Alignment! Too Far to Measure! 2012 Ford Expedition 5.4 3-valve 4×4 https://youtu.be/EZzLtfBl7B4
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Excellent technician! Don't know where you are located, would be great to have you do my work!😂
Good day to you good sir. Another great video Ray!
I still don't understand how you can just GUESS/ESTIMATE all of these suspension part bolts/nuts torque values as in never using a torque wrench. You've just done this so long you have a feel for it? I would love to know the real torque values of EVERY BOLT you've tightened on every video I've watched. Why would the manufacturer ever have torque values if mechanics just guess? Am I just RHEEEING for no reason? I love the channel and all the videos, Ray's a great guy. Can someone with a couple decades experience doing this just explain this if I ask nicely?
Ray why don't u use a wrench instead of using gD plyers!!!
That condition is typical of Ford. Think stop squeek. Walmart $4.95 problem solved. Just kidding, enjoy the rest of your day rainman.
The constant pursuit of perfection. Rainman you are a huge credit to your profession. Thank you again for a great vidio.
Thanks for showing us how to do it right with a positive attitude.
Ratchet straps are good for pulling transmission/transfer cases on old trucks as well.
Stack and drag my friend. that's why I like using the bar graphs screen
I bet that aux. Lift on the rack could cause a bad day
Zero is great but camber has to be way out to wear tires. Toe on the other hand just a little off wears bad. Caster means how your wheel returns to center while driving.more caster, more effort needed to turn.
Only recommendation, is that u rotate the rear tires to the front, then perform the alignment. Uneven tire wear can be seen on those front tires from bad ball joints, so slap the rears in the front for accurate aligning
*das Auto
Never heat, pry or beat on suspension parts, lesson one for suspension work
Were u location
what the fella doing in the background, 11:28 mark
Your videos are so educational and interesting that I found myself binge watching last night. So it's your fault I didn't get much sleep! (Just kidding. Keep up the good work and I will grow up.)
Lol! It's a good thing you wear a hat. When you make those loud noises we see it raining dust. This makes me want to put the lower plastic pan back on my cars…so that the space above won't pick up so much road dirt. Excellent video, BTW. I would like to see more alignment videos because I learned quite a bit on how alignments are done…but of course more videos with different suspension systems, especially BMW ones would be great!. You rock Ray!
yes
we were always told to rotate the tyres (or put the best ones on the front). I noticed that these tyres were scrubbed on the inside. If the rears were crapped out, I'd have changed them from side to side…or should I have watched the first video? Apologies if You've already taken care of the rotation issue.
What would be cool is if you were closer to the Ocala area… I'd stop in and see you about doing the timing cover gasket & oil pan gasket on my 07 Monte. Another thing that would be cool is if you had your own shop, rent out a lift bay/tools for people who want to do their own repairs but don't have a lift or specialized tools like a balance puller, etc. and they can pick your brain if they get stumped.. or if they give up and you finish the job, you can charge close to around the original price of the job. This will help those who'll try to do it themselves even though they don't have the right tools … and it'll give you some revenue renting out a bay … just not sure how to do the insurance/waivers to protect you.
For example, I have a 07 Monte that needs the front timing cover & oil pan seals replaced (according to a dye test done by the dealership) … I have the general knowledge on how to do it, just don't have a lift, an engine support bracket so I can remove the brace that goes across the oil pan, a harmonic balance puller, parts cleaner, etc. I just have the standard Craftsman wrench & socket set. And while I have the general knowledge on how to do it, it'll be good to have someone with more knowledge to get advice or even some tips/tricks from.
The dude in the back ground was lookin kinda creepy fiddling with his dangly bits
Hey Ray you are the nicest Person on YOU TUBE by FAR . I really dont want to say this but the CALIBRE OF THE TYRE youre working with is not up to youre amasing standards . SIR ! . Love Brian .
When I did alignments 35 years ago we used to put 2 80lbs bags of sand in drivers side before doing alignment to simulate driver in vehicle since no car can drive without a driver!
Guess I am old we used to align with a string and a plumb bob an push the car back an forth. Probably was not as accurate.
why would you want to have positive camber? slightly negative is much better than ever ever touch positive settings.
is there something special with this suspenstion? does it pull negative camber on cornering on outside?
I keep saying this. Use the correct tools and use them correctly.
You are getting a bit sloppy, Ray
What I do is hold control arms parallel to ground and center lowers in the holes then tighten down and usually alignment is dead on except for toe, if adjustment needed I use jack and hold
Always finds a way and this foo is smart keep it up
ðŸ‘
Old school tricks for an old mechanic!
1. grab an actual come-a-long 2. if you open the strap handle all the way up flat, it will disengage the smaller lock.. so it's one handed.
Do you even own a torque wrench? No offense, Ray, but I wouldn’t trust you to work on a covered wagon.
Thanks for the trip down memory lane. I remember having to do that at my 1st job but it got the job done
“My face†warning just like “Loud noises†warning please …your face triggers me,,,thanks
In fact, the same requirement can be done by moving the rear lower bolt outboard. When you first did them up with the lower bolts close to their inner position on the slots, you have little left 'slottage' moving the front one in, so instead, move the rear one outward in the slot, plenty of slot left to use there!