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In this video we pick right up where we left off looking at this Jeep Liberty 3.7L. We determined in part one that the #4 and #6 exhaust valves are not opening. Let’s pull the valve cover off and have a look to see if the rocker arms have fallen off. -Enjoy!

PART I “The Diagnosis” : https://youtu.be/3V-p3wjGIlc

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46 thoughts on “Jeep Liberty: Cranks, Starts, Stalls, Runs Rough- Part II

  1. Thank you Eric…!!! I learn a lot from every video you produce, but this one was extra good…!!! We got to see how to diagnose the issue, plus the intangibles like, the blurps that come up from scan tool to scan tool…!!!

  2. Yet another job well done Sir, want to congratulate you for excellent knowledge of this engines, I,m working with BMW cars exclusively..
    greetings from the Northern Territory.. Ted EDU

  3. This is why I do a Seafoam treatment in the crankcase every year or so just before an oil change, to get the sludge and gunk out of these surfaces.

  4. Good day everyone that comments to this problems solved, I'm having problems to same jeep @my place of work,how can get in touch with you sir and it very urgent,we have up to 7 liberty Jeep given the same problems thanks

  5. I didn't hear exactly what was wrong with it.Did say what was wrong with it. I just bought a 2009 Jeep Liberty that was running good last but went to go start for worl and it will not stay running. Just like this Jeep but with less noise. I am a lady and I don't know to do! I had my mechanic put it on the diagnostic machine just like you did but he said nothing with the engine was wrong. Now it wont run just like this one! What did you do to this one to get to run smooth and stay on. Did you clean something?

  6. Hhhhmmm. Do I understand this correctly. But if the intake valve is not opening (stuck). Would that perhaps create a back pressure through the intake circuit. Like, would air puff out of the throttle body?

  7. Really enjoyed watching these 2 parts. Considering when it came in to now . Its almost a new car. I only wished there where more honest mechanics out there like your self. Thats why i love watching and learning from you. Great job.

  8. The worst part is they're likely to pull that piece of cardboard, slap an 'as is – no warranty' price sticker on the window and do NOTHING to mitigate the known problems. Somebody is going to be buying an expensive parts trap.

  9. If it were mine I would change those lifter followers and clean all the top end and maybe flush a gallon of diesel through it with the engine hot and run it at idle for about 45 seconds and drain all the schmoo out and let drain for a full day and then change the oil like it needs not what the manual says. Like every year at the very least.

  10. Thanks for talking on the phone and skipping the most important parts of getting that fricken cover off. "Just move the wiring harness" my ass.

  11. Bingo. I knew that was it. Commented on part I about having had the same happen to my 4.7 due to overheating for about 30 seconds due to coolant loss from a cracked radiator. I drove mine all day with multiple engine stops with no issues until I got home. Popped the rocker arm back in and all has been good since. If the seats fall out, time for a head rebuild or replacement. When it happened to mine 12+ years ago, there wasn't a single mention on the internet of others having had this happen. I found one mention on a mailing list of someone buying a 4.7L truck for nothing because of "engine failure". Ended up being 2 dropped rocker arms. There are thousands of mentions of others having this issue now if you do a google search.

    I've always run fully synthetic so not a bit of built-up anywhere in the engine.

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