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In this video I have a look at a 2010 Kia Sedona 3.8 that came in fresh from the auction with a P0016. Working with a head cold I almost pull the trigger on the timing chain! Better have a closer look and not make any mistakes. Remember, TEST DON’T GUESS! -Enjoy!

THE FIX (Part II): https://youtu.be/lTQDcD9NLGM

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50 thoughts on “Kia Sedona : P0016 Cam Crank Correlation Trouble: Part I

  1. Hey there viewers! You'll have to excuse me in this video because I was fighting off a pretty bad cold 😷 ANNNNDDDD some of the video had recorded WITHOUT AUDIO 😠! I cut those parts out so it may not seem as fluid as it usually is. Any how hopefully it all makes sense in the end😎

  2. A bit much is currently “over my head” but one day it’s all gonna come together! You are my beginning! Thank you!
    I did change both camshafts A/B
    Then changed crank shaft, ultimately with my 3rd eye since it was in direct middle, almost center of the engine with little to no correct tools.
    Yes, I’m broke, motivated and a bit crazy…
    And engine light is still on…
    Ohhhh, and this is what would be somewhat embarrassing…
    The “male” (wire holster) part to the camshaft A bank 2 was severed. The “female” part is what I replaced on each.
    Soooo…. with absolute ignorance I stripped the wires and braided them back together.
    I need some Tesa tape but used traditional wire tape.
    Now I’m going to learn about electric current and such (I know, I know… I’m that idiot, after the fact) so that I can hopefully replace the male connector of the camshaft sensor.
    By the way, so far I’ve spent about $100 on all these parts.
    But I spent 8 1/2 hours replacing the crankshaft sensor. 3 hours verifying its location…😳
    3 1/2 hours trying to get a screw aligned with movable parts that I can not see nor get 2 fingers in. (Hence, the third eye, statement)
    I’ve got to get this thing fixed before Thanksgiving.
    Please pray for me in all the ways visibly needed by my comment.
    Thank you!

  3. Working on a 2008 Sorento 3.8l, had same codes P0016, p0300, P0301/3/5. What had me chasing my tail was the misfire counters on scan tool climbing for the bank 2 cylinders. Sometimes on #2, go to restart they'd be jumping up for #4, occasionally then on #6. Once I saw the difference between intake advance actual/desired and it being stuck at 50 deg adv, it became obvious the VVT was the culprit. Fortunately it wasn't corroded in on this vehicle but Kia put a steel coolant Y pipe in the front engine bracket that prevented removal. Rather than take off the lower intake and deal with draining coolant + a lot more labor time I cut off 1/4" of the pipe and it slid right out. Section of the filter screen was torn and got lodged in the valve. Removed the debris, replaced the screen with an old dead valve I was hoarding and wound up being a no-parts req fix. Dealers want stupid $ for these and aftermarket quality is shady at best.

  4. 2010 Kia Soul 2.0L, just completed a timing belt, water pump, tensioner replacement. No check engine lights prior to installation. The engine ran smoothly right after the installation.

    The very next day, 2 codes appeared; P0016 bank 1 sensor A and P0441 EVAP. The engine sounded fine and eventually P0441 disappeared.

    Should I recheck my work as far as timing/alignment, improper tension of the timing belt? or could I have possibly disturbed the crankshaft/camshaft position sensors?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated, TY

  5. Hi, Thanks for the vvt sensor videos. I had a similar problem on my 2012 Soul. Could you please tell me the name of the clever little wire protection tool you were inserting before knifing open the harness. Thanks

  6. Eric (or whoever), what was the little red gadget you used to check the ohm and to "give it the beans (TM)"? I checked your store on amazon and didn't see anything that looked like it. My multimeter will do the former but not the latter I think. I'm doing this same diagnosis on my son's Kia at the moment. Great video as always!

  7. What about watching the pattern from first cranking, extended cranking and then run to possibly see the oil pressure build up and advance the cam timing if you were unable to access the oil control solenoid?

  8. Always a pleasure watching you work. I definitely know how hard it is to think with a 'cloudy' head. I have an '07 Mitsubishi Galant ES 2.4 that seems to 'struggle when starting. I want to check the connections when it gets a bit warmer. They stuck the damn starter under the exhaust manifold, but such is life. I've the car for 3 yrs. now and am happy with it. Also had problems with battery not have=ing enough oomph, but thats mostly because I don't drive it every day and only happens on '0' days. Also want to go through and check all the circuits to see if I have any drawing extra power which I believe you mentioned in a video. thanks for sharing.

  9. ERICK ERICK I HAVE NEVER SAID THIS ABOUT YOUR DIAGNOSTIC VIDEOS BEFORE BUT THAT DAM VIDEO WAS REALLY WORTH WATCHING…, AND ANOTHER THING I ALSO LEARNED SOMETHING NEW I HAVE WATCHED MANY OF YOUR VIDEOS BUT THIS ONE WAS A BIT DIFFERENT IT WAS DOWN TO EARTH TRULY EASY TO UNDERSTAND AND TO REMEMBER . JUST THOUGHT I WOULD LET YOU KNOW THAT WAS A DAM GOOD VIDEO THANKS AND I WILL BE LOOKING FORWARD FOR MANY MORE .

  10. Great video Eric, there just one thing i think you shouldn't use with the pico and thats the static crankshaft degrees. A running engine is accelerating and decelerating all the time. So the 720 crankshaft line should be dynamic. Youre now measuring 30 degrees but it could be something like 28 of maybe 32. For this diagnose it doesn't really mater. But if your checking ignition timing for exemple 1 or 2 degrees does make a lot of difference.

  11. Hi Erick, great video as allways. I't would have been great to dry-run the engine (no/low oil) for 5 seconds to re-take the cam-crank correlation, and i would have checked the pcm driver for that actuator before seelling the actuator to the customer (wich i'm pretty sure you did). I'm also looking forward to part 2. 👍👍👍

  12. Quick question I have a 98 s10 and I can’t get the security light to shut off I’ve done the key relearn process several times and it still won’t work

  13. Hmmm 50 lashes for catching yet another cold ! We need you fit and perfetct for the job, nothing else will do. Goodness me Sir, that is not only extremely rude, that is also anatomically impossible 🙂

  14. Great tutorial! Thank you Eric. It's a 2011-2013 3.5Lv6, 272hp, 250lbs, 6 speed auto in Cristal Blue. I bought the same new in 2011 for my wife. Paid CAD 25252 cash taxes in. There was 8k cash discount. Very strong peppy engine, smooth tranny. As of today we put 82000 kM. My wife drives kids to school, shopping and to church, same scenario. Change oil every 7K kM. Most of those km short 10- 15min drives on a cold engine. ( heavy duty cycle.) There were 3-4 recalls. Most significant: oil pressure probe leakage and front control arms. Would buy again in a 💓 beat.

  15. I always check the intake and exhaust solenoids when I see a correlation code. A lot of the time they are full of sludge and cleaning them fixes the issue. If you do change them best to change in pairs. Same with the cam and crank sensors.

  16. quote the job cheap we wanting to see you fix the car lol maybe the customer will give the thumps up what are they going to do park it under a tree lol normally yes a shop messed with the car first thing is to check timing maybe that shop is off the hook now maybe they timed the engine right timing is still timing they couldn't go the extra step or have the scope to see dang the cam phaser is bad thks mr o

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