In this video I have a look at a 2010 Kia Sedona 3.8 that came in fresh from the auction with a P0016. Working with a head cold I almost pull the trigger on the timing chain! Better have a closer look and not make any mistakes. Remember, TEST DON’T GUESS! -Enjoy!
THE FIX (Part II): https://youtu.be/lTQDcD9NLGM
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Hey there viewers! You'll have to excuse me in this video because I was fighting off a pretty bad cold 😷 ANNNNDDDD some of the video had recorded WITHOUT AUDIO 😠! I cut those parts out so it may not seem as fluid as it usually is. Any how hopefully it all makes sense in the end😎
ðŸ‘ðŸ»ðŸ‘ŠðŸ»
I have the same problem po16 and po18?
Thanks for this video, I just fix a 2008 sedona (same code)
Thanks!
A bit much is currently “over my head†but one day it’s all gonna come together! You are my beginning! Thank you!
I did change both camshafts A/B
Then changed crank shaft, ultimately with my 3rd eye since it was in direct middle, almost center of the engine with little to no correct tools.
Yes, I’m broke, motivated and a bit crazy…
And engine light is still on…
Ohhhh, and this is what would be somewhat embarrassing…
The “male†(wire holster) part to the camshaft A bank 2 was severed. The “female†part is what I replaced on each.
Soooo…. with absolute ignorance I stripped the wires and braided them back together.
I need some Tesa tape but used traditional wire tape.
Now I’m going to learn about electric current and such (I know, I know… I’m that idiot, after the fact) so that I can hopefully replace the male connector of the camshaft sensor.
By the way, so far I’ve spent about $100 on all these parts.
But I spent 8 1/2 hours replacing the crankshaft sensor. 3 hours verifying its location…😳
3 1/2 hours trying to get a screw aligned with movable parts that I can not see nor get 2 fingers in. (Hence, the third eye, statement)
I’ve got to get this thing fixed before Thanksgiving.
Please pray for me in all the ways visibly needed by my comment.
Thank you!
I have this same code on my 2010 Optima V6. Money light is solid. Only happened after my valve cover was replaced for an oil leak.
Awesome vid. Good job
What is the name of the tool that you used to check the solenoids by energizing them? Thanks
Working on a 2008 Sorento 3.8l, had same codes P0016, p0300, P0301/3/5. What had me chasing my tail was the misfire counters on scan tool climbing for the bank 2 cylinders. Sometimes on #2, go to restart they'd be jumping up for #4, occasionally then on #6. Once I saw the difference between intake advance actual/desired and it being stuck at 50 deg adv, it became obvious the VVT was the culprit. Fortunately it wasn't corroded in on this vehicle but Kia put a steel coolant Y pipe in the front engine bracket that prevented removal. Rather than take off the lower intake and deal with draining coolant + a lot more labor time I cut off 1/4" of the pipe and it slid right out. Section of the filter screen was torn and got lodged in the valve. Removed the debris, replaced the screen with an old dead valve I was hoarding and wound up being a no-parts req fix. Dealers want stupid $ for these and aftermarket quality is shady at best.
That is some excellent diagnosing. High five on that. What was the final report?
Also, what is the name of the software that your using to read the ociliscop readings.
2010 Kia Soul 2.0L, just completed a timing belt, water pump, tensioner replacement. No check engine lights prior to installation. The engine ran smoothly right after the installation.
The very next day, 2 codes appeared; P0016 bank 1 sensor A and P0441 EVAP. The engine sounded fine and eventually P0441 disappeared.
Should I recheck my work as far as timing/alignment, improper tension of the timing belt? or could I have possibly disturbed the crankshaft/camshaft position sensors?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, TY
14:10 fell asleep on the keyboard…
Hey Eric, can the timing affect the MAP sensor?
Wow, carfax certified!
So what was the cause?
Have a once a month swag giveaway with your sharp hoodies and cool mech mag light! Hint hint! Keep up the awesome!
Hi, Thanks for the vvt sensor videos. I had a similar problem on my 2012 Soul. Could you please tell me the name of the clever little wire protection tool you were inserting before knifing open the harness. Thanks
Eric (or whoever), what was the little red gadget you used to check the ohm and to "give it the beans (TM)"? I checked your store on amazon and didn't see anything that looked like it. My multimeter will do the former but not the latter I think. I'm doing this same diagnosis on my son's Kia at the moment. Great video as always!
What is the name of the tool used to protect the wires in the loom when you cut?
Hi great video , can I ask where you get that tool that you put in the wiring loom to protect it when cutting ??
A common issue is the screen around the ocv(oil control valve) becomes loose and blocks the ocv from operating..
What about watching the pattern from first cranking, extended cranking and then run to possibly see the oil pressure build up and advance the cam timing if you were unable to access the oil control solenoid?
Always a pleasure watching you work. I definitely know how hard it is to think with a 'cloudy' head. I have an '07 Mitsubishi Galant ES 2.4 that seems to 'struggle when starting. I want to check the connections when it gets a bit warmer. They stuck the damn starter under the exhaust manifold, but such is life. I've the car for 3 yrs. now and am happy with it. Also had problems with battery not have=ing enough oomph, but thats mostly because I don't drive it every day and only happens on '0' days. Also want to go through and check all the circuits to see if I have any drawing extra power which I believe you mentioned in a video. thanks for sharing.
Hey Eric, So where did you get that New Tool from?
South Korean Auto repair channel
What year was this van? Great find on the phaser
ERICK ERICK I HAVE NEVER SAID THIS ABOUT YOUR DIAGNOSTIC VIDEOS BEFORE BUT THAT DAM VIDEO WAS REALLY WORTH WATCHING…, AND ANOTHER THING I ALSO LEARNED SOMETHING NEW I HAVE WATCHED MANY OF YOUR VIDEOS BUT THIS ONE WAS A BIT DIFFERENT IT WAS DOWN TO EARTH TRULY EASY TO UNDERSTAND AND TO REMEMBER . JUST THOUGHT I WOULD LET YOU KNOW THAT WAS A DAM GOOD VIDEO THANKS AND I WILL BE LOOKING FORWARD FOR MANY MORE .
WHAT WAS THE NAME OF THE NEW TOOL YOU HAD WHEN YOU OPENED THE WIRING HARNESS, AND WHERE DID YOU GET IT? I FOUND THE TESA TAPE AS YOU SAID ON AMAZON. KEEP UP THE EXCELLENT VIDEOS.
Can you use a low currant clamp for the relative compression test?
Good video Eric. Guess I should have watched part 1 before part 2 but what the heck. Somedays are just that way as im sure you know. â¤ï¸ï¸
what is the oil pressure
I wish I could learn to read and understand how to use electronics….so sad I can't
Come on Eric we are waiting for P2!
As a prior owner of a 3v 5.4 triton, my mind immediately went to "stuck phaser/solenoid."
Ya need to tap it like the Fonz silly 😉
Great video Eric, there just one thing i think you shouldn't use with the pico and thats the static crankshaft degrees. A running engine is accelerating and decelerating all the time. So the 720 crankshaft line should be dynamic. Youre now measuring 30 degrees but it could be something like 28 of maybe 32. For this diagnose it doesn't really mater. But if your checking ignition timing for exemple 1 or 2 degrees does make a lot of difference.
good work!
Hi Erick, great video as allways. I't would have been great to dry-run the engine (no/low oil) for 5 seconds to re-take the cam-crank correlation, and i would have checked the pcm driver for that actuator before seelling the actuator to the customer (wich i'm pretty sure you did). I'm also looking forward to part 2. ðŸ‘ðŸ‘ðŸ‘
Quick question I have a 98 s10 and I can’t get the security light to shut off I’ve done the key relearn process several times and it still won’t work
vvt i "phasers' on toyota doesn't work at idle /// Does Kia designed this things differently?
The telltale of P016.
Its always good to watch SMA in action
Thank you for sharing. I cannot afford to contribute. But I appreciate your video
Hmmm 50 lashes for catching yet another cold ! We need you fit and perfetct for the job, nothing else will do. Goodness me Sir, that is not only extremely rude, that is also anatomically impossible 🙂
Great tutorial! Thank you Eric. It's a 2011-2013 3.5Lv6, 272hp, 250lbs, 6 speed auto in Cristal Blue. I bought the same new in 2011 for my wife. Paid CAD 25252 cash taxes in. There was 8k cash discount. Very strong peppy engine, smooth tranny. As of today we put 82000 kM. My wife drives kids to school, shopping and to church, same scenario. Change oil every 7K kM. Most of those km short 10- 15min drives on a cold engine. ( heavy duty cycle.) There were 3-4 recalls. Most significant: oil pressure probe leakage and front control arms. Would buy again in a 💓 beat.
I always check the intake and exhaust solenoids when I see a correlation code. A lot of the time they are full of sludge and cleaning them fixes the issue. If you do change them best to change in pairs. Same with the cam and crank sensors.
quote the job cheap we wanting to see you fix the car lol maybe the customer will give the thumps up what are they going to do park it under a tree lol normally yes a shop messed with the car first thing is to check timing maybe that shop is off the hook now maybe they timed the engine right timing is still timing they couldn't go the extra step or have the scope to see dang the cam phaser is bad thks mr o
Another great video! one of my favorites uses of a scope is checking cam timing. It would have sucked to pull valve covers and timing covers to just find it had a bad solenoid. Good find!
At 14:20 I ended up in ER. Got 12 stitches on my forehead!
Try using a sewing seam ripper for cutting tape on harnesses, that’s what I use and it works good
Canada says Hi Enjoy your video keep it real.